Replaced timing belt, now a dead miss. HELP!

Some of you may have seen my last post, car left me sitting about a month ago. I got it towed, fooled around with it for the next few weeks, replaced various parts, including cam position sensor and ignitor. Turned out to be a broken timing belt.

 

Had it towed to my mechanic, i ordered all the parts. He put everything on today, called me back, said it started right up ran smooth everything good. He then said once it got warm that it had a dead miss. He was in a hurry to get to a meeting, but he did say that there was a CEL light on. He suggested that i start with plugs and wires. ( i did notice that the previous owner had only replaced the two plugs and wires on the passenger side of the motor, the two on the driver side are older and werent replaced at the same time.)

 

Im needing to get the car back to my farm by this weekend, (about 150 mile trip) so i need to figure out what is going on with this miss. Any help or suggestions would be, like always, greatly appreciated.

 

Thanks.

lets start with the code first...

I asked him what the code was, and he said he didnt have time to pull it.

when he gets back have him pull it, your just guessing until then.

Replace the other 2 sides (Plugs & wire) since you mention that they haven't been replace. Check for spark on each plug to make sure every thing is good with the ignition first.

 

But most important is knowing the code, so you don't waste too much time trying to figure it out.

I ran over there after work, started pulling plug wires, quickly realized i had a dead miss on number 3, after pulling the wire off the coil and not hearing any change in idle. Swapped the wire to number 2, same thing happened on that cylinder. So obviously i have a bad plug wire, strange that it happened after the timing belt broke. I did replace the cam sensor and put a new ignitor on the car, maybe that had something to do with it? Either way, its a relatively inexpensive fix. Parts (new idler and belt, water pump, crank and cam seals, new hydraulic tensioner), labor, coolant, tow to the shop, All come out to a grand total of $525 bucks. Not too bad from what i read elsewhere.

You can pull the code easily without a scanner. There are green and black connections underneath the steering column. The black connections will give you stored cel codes and the green connections will give you the running codes. Follow this great guide posted on surrealmirage (legacy777 from bbs): http://www.surrealmirage.com/subaru/engine.html

 

Hopefully it's just a bad knock sensor. The auxiliary purge control solenoid valves always crap out too. Keep us posted.