The Big 3

Has anyone researched this type of upgrade? In theory it seems as if it would be a great idea but in practicality? Basically replace the OEM ground wires with heavier gauge wire and better connections to reduce unwanted noise from various grounds.

 

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/how-articles-provided-our-members/107466-quicky-big-3-upgrade.html

I didnt spend as much time as he did on his - but I did the alternator (+) to batt (+) and the batt (-) to chassis (-) all with 2/0 wire, with heat shrink, loom, and tape. Definitely noticed a change in the subwoofer. but in theory - electricity will flow through the path of least resistance so in THEORY it will work. a note for you though, dont replace your oem wires just add on to them.

 

Will be doing the block to chassis ground when I pull the bumper for an HID install soon. If youre adding a sub/amp/speakers, it wouldn't hurt. good luck

Definitely not a new idea, I know I have kicked around the idea of buying a set of big gauge ignition cables for the Jeep. Im not a huge audiophile, so I cant tell you if larger and more consistent voltage would help your speakers. In the Jeep world it means your electrical system is better at handling simultaneous loads of extra lights, winches, CB, etc. Guys who have more demanding electrical loads from increased speakers systems would see the same benefit.

 

CB guys who want the best sound and least static go crazy grounding every single body panel on the car with heavier gauge stuff, so maybe that would help with sound from speakers as well, not sure there though.

So add a 2 or 0 wire on top of the oem wiring connections?

2/0 and 2 gauge are two different sizes - 2/0 is considerably larger (read as two-not).

 

What is your purpose of running the larger wires? sound system? lights?

Yes, I am researching all things car audio. I have the JDM pieces ready to go into my XT I am just trying to combat all environmental issues first. I had a very good SQ system in my last vehicle. Xtants from the mid 90's, Boston Pros and 3 10w6 jl's, but the internet was not around when I did that system so I didnt think of all of these problems, solutions, or just things to look at. So now that I am in a perfect place to make sure everything is perfect I am trying to figure out the best way to get every cent spent out of the stereo.

Lots of good info at http://www.the12volt.com

bass head? I would think if you were tossing three w6's in, this would definitely help.

 

what will your new setup be?

Actually not a bass head at all I was looking for acuracy at the time, I had the three 10 w6's in my Expedition as just 8's didnt do it in that big of a cabin.

 

New set up is still very much in the air.

 

A 6.5 component set for sure, Hybrid audio or something similar for front stage

 

Amps I am torn between a lot of things. But I am leaning towards Butler Tubes

 

Sub I have no idea what direction to go. I am not looking to fill the back of my car by any stretch.

The big three is only really necessary once you start running a lot of power. Right now I run 300 watts RMS...it wouldn't help anything for me. Back when I was at 1600 watts though, it made a noticeable improvement in light dimming on hard bass hits. You won't likely notice any audible difference in your system though, it's more about light dimming with audio systems.

I've had some great luck with boston subs - good luck on the install

Light dimming would drive me crazy. My last vehicle had a tow package which gave it a bigger alt so dimming wasn't and issue unless I was playing Obituary at the highest volume for awhile.

It can only help so much though. If your system over-draws the alternator, the big three obviously won't stop light dimming. I wouldn't turn my system up very loud at night because I hated the dimming, and I'd imagine on-coming cars did too lol.

Seems that if you are running a lot of power it might not be a bad idea, but if not it isn't necessary.

 

Is it a big job or expensive? What the real world cost, and estimate of time to completion?

 

New alternator or battery?

 

XT alterator output?

I've done the big 3 on every car I've owned.. normally use 1/0 gauge but I've always wired all my amps using 1/0 to a distro block since normally I run amps for subs/mids/highs.

 

Currently in my 05 LGT I'm running 3 amps on just an optima and the big 3.. everything is great

Real world cost is probably $60-$100 depending on what size and brand of wiring you use and prices you can find. It's also a good idea to fuse the alternator to battery cable, which will add to the cost some. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to do if you know what you're doing.

 

The general rule of thumb is to do the big three in at least the same gauge as your main power wire for your amps. If you need to do the big three though, you'll likely be at a power level that requires at least 1/0 gauge power wire for your amps, so you'll most likely be doing the big three with at least 1/0 gauge wire.

I've done the big 3 on every car I've owned.. normally use 1/0 gauge but I've always wired all my amps using 1/0 to a distro block since normally I run amps for subs/mids/highs.

 

Currently in my 05 LGT I'm running 3 amps on just an optima and the big 3.. everything is great

 

Did you replace the OEM wires? Someone above mentioned not replacing but adding to the OEM. Using both?

Real world cost is probably $60-$100 depending on what size and brand of wiring you use and prices you can find. It's also a good idea to fuse the alternator to battery cable, which will add to the cost some. Shouldn't take more than an hour or two to do if you know what you're doing.

 

The general rule of thumb is to do the big three in at least the same gauge as your main power wire for your amps. If you need to do the big three though, you'll likely be at a power level that requires at least 1/0 gauge power wire for your amps, so you'll most likely be doing the big three with at least 1/0 gauge wire.

 

Good point on the fuse, and thanks for the advice on wire size.

Did you replace the OEM wires? Someone above mentioned not replacing but adding to the OEM. Using both?

 

Yeah just add new wires. You don't have to use factory ground locations either, if anything you should find better locations. By adding new wiring over the old, if your wires fail or you pick bad grounds, everything will still work like factory.

Leave OEM where it is

 

Use at least the gauge wire your are running your power cables with and make sure to fuse the alternator to battery cable.

 

Use different grounding points then what OEM uses.

Did you replace the OEM wires? Someone above mentioned not replacing but adding to the OEM. Using both?

 

Only one I keep hooked up is the oem alt wire..

 

Basically new wire off the output post directly to the battery.. pull the old oem battery ground and reground it with larger wire.. and create a good engine ground.

 

And the cost listed above 60-100 $$$? Thats insane.. I've bought a 50" spool of 1/0 for $80. You will not need much wire so my guess is under $30 using 4awg.... a quality 4awg at that.

I've also never fused the wire from the alt directly to the battery.

The Sooby electrical system isn't bad out of the gate so this isn't crucial IMO until you cross the 1000+ watt line with your system. Even then, debatable.

 

Still it's a good idea and I believe it takes some strain off the system. If you're at or under 1000 watts I'd just tack some 8g on top of the alt to B+, another 8g from B- to the strut top hat stud & a third from B- to the alt engine mount bolt. With connectors & looming you're probably around $25.

 

You can use bigger wires but there's no benefit til you get some serious amps(like 1500+ watts). Plus they're harder to work with & $$ more.

 

Fusing the B+ to Alt is a waste of a fuse since current could travel in either direction.

Leave OEM where it is

Yes.

 

Use at least the gauge wire your are running your power cables with

Only if running the same distance, which you aren't, you're only going a few feet.

 

 

Use different grounding points then what OEM uses.

Nothing wrong with using OEM ground points.

Yes.

 

 

Only if running the same distance, which you aren't, you're only going a few feet.

 

 

 

Nothing wrong with using OEM ground points.

 

Oem ground points are fine.. just make sure they are bare metal before putting the larger wire there