Code P0607

So im a little confused right now. I went to my local Shell station all fine, car was running great and life was good. turned the car off and filled up.When i turned her back on i noticed a check engine light and a rough idle. Accessport said it was code p0607. looked it up online but i didnt really understand what it was saying or what I need to do to fix it. I tried reseating the gas cap a few times, thinking that may be the issue, but no luck at all. maybe it was just bad timing

 

car: 2006 legacy GT 5EAT

mileage: 114k

Mods: AP stg 1 Tune, 3" Catback, Intake silence removal

 

Any help is appreciated. When i was looking online i read something about throttle bodies and TGVs, but none of it really made clear sense.

Just went back out to my car to check stuff, went to turn it to accessory so i can use the lights. I turn the key to acessory, everything lights up for split second then goes dark. no when I turn the key nothing happens, no lights, no starter, nothing

Not really sure myself, but I'll throw a few guesses out there. Based off what the FSM says, my guess might be a bad ground or dying battery? How old is your battery?

Not really sure myself, but I'll throw a few guesses out there. Based off what the FSM says, my guess might be a bad ground or dying battery? How old is your battery?

 

i dont know, its probably due for replacing. i only got the car in august so i dont know for sure. Im looking through the fuses and ground now. hopefully its just that and not something much worse. thanks for the help

Update: tightened up the battery terminals and whatnot, car starts now and code is gone. however when the engine was cold and i gave it some gad, it would rev up fine, but on the way down the idle would drop to 12.8v from 14.2v and the idle would go down to 480 and almost stall out. after a few seconds it would go back up to normal. however when the car was warm the voltage would drop down to 13.8/14v from 14.2v and the idle wouldnt dip down

try cleaning those terminal connections.

and checking/cleaning engine/chassis grounds.

and testing the resting voltage of your battery.

try cleaning those terminal connections.

and checking/cleaning engine/chassis grounds.

and testing the resting voltage of your battery.

 

cleaned the terminals

 

too dark for me to check grounds so ill do that tomorrow

 

resting voltage was around 12.8v

 

im thinking is may have to do with the alternator, as the engine and car seems to work fine with very little voltage difference alone, but when i turn on something like the heat or radio, it does the dipping thing with the revs

and volts

 

Edit: and just to be clear, the check engine light is gone, the issue now is the electrical stuff

Does anyone have a diagram or know the location of t he grounding points of the car?

Does anyone have a diagram or know the location of t he grounding points of the car?

 

Look underneath by each valve cover, there should be a grounding strap from the frame to the motor. One on each side.

 

There's also one on the back of the driver's side TGVs, worth checking out, though it rarely is the one that has issues.

there's a strap on the heat shield on the passenger side by the manifold/up junction.

Hm. Thats odd. Although, I may not be the smartest person with Subarus, I have a couple questions, and my opinion as to what the problem is on this:

 

1.) Did u check the terminals to see if they were loose before you tightened them?

2.) How did the terminals look? Were they ok or were they begging on their hand and knees to be cleaned?

 

My opinion: I believe that when nothing would work, the ECU reset itself, since there was no power/ground from the battery, since as you mentioned, right after u turned the key, nothing would work after a couple of seconds. Now, what this means is that the ECU has to get all the data again, including idle. Thus, if you rev the car, or go then stop, the car idle will drop, nearly stall, then go up to normal. When I cleaned my terminals, and recently replaced my battery, the idle would also drop to a point where it almost stalled, then shoot back up to normal when I revved the car and drove it, esp on hills . Now, all you would need to do is drive the car for a bit, I would suggest 30 min, and you should be good. Also, I would follow the advice of chato and Mr. Tris, since they seem to have some good knowledge on the car and on this particular problem.

 

Hope this long post of advice helps you out . If you want to replace your battery, whether now or later, I got mine at Costco for a pretty good price, with a warranty too (3 1/2 yr free replacement if defective). Although I forgot the price, I can send you a pm or a text (ur choice) of the price, but from what i remember, it is less than $100.

Also, let us know what the problem is when you find out.

Hm. Thats odd. Although, I may not be the smartest person with Subarus, I have a couple questions, and my opinion as to what the problem is on this:

 

1.) Did u check the terminals to see if they were loose before you tightened them?

2.) How did the terminals look? Were they ok or were they begging on their hand and knees to be cleaned?

 

My opinion: I believe that when nothing would work, the ECU reset itself, since there was no power/ground from the battery, since as you mentioned, right after u turned the key, nothing would work after a couple of seconds. Now, what this means is that the ECU has to get all the data again, including idle. Thus, if you rev the car, or go then stop, the car idle will drop, nearly stall, then go up to normal. When I cleaned my terminals, and recently replaced my battery, the idle would also drop to a point where it almost stalled, then shoot back up to normal when I revved the car and drove it, esp on hills . Now, all you would need to do is drive the car for a bit, I would suggest 30 min, and you should be good. Also, I would follow the advice of chato and Mr. Tris, since they seem to have some good knowledge on the car and on this particular problem.

 

Hope this long post of advice helps you out . If you want to replace your battery, whether now or later, I got mine at Costco for a pretty good price, with a warranty too (3 1/2 yr free replacement if defective). Although I forgot the price, I can send you a pm or a text (ur choice) of the price, but from what i remember, it is less than $100.

 

 

the positive terminal seems a bit loose, although not a lot and they were both rather clean. im going to check the grounds now that im home and able too. I has thinking it might be the Ecu relearning, as when i first flashed the ECU with stg 1 it did then but after a few key cycles went back to normal. i will update this thread when i fix it or have more issues. thanks for the help everything

Not sure what kind of battery you have, but I know when I got a new battery from advance auto parts, I had to remove this plastic spacer ring from the negative terminal in order to get the negative terminal to clamp down tight. I know you didn't say anything about the negative being loose, but if all else fails it's something to check.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=4233697&postcount=373

So I fixed it today. I decided to do a complete reflash of the ECU, so i reverted back to stock tune and then back to the cobb OTS Stg. 1 and that seems to have fixed it all.