CovertRussian's 05 LGT Build Thread

FWIW, mine are worse than that and my dealer just sprayed them. I don't think they ever had any intention of doing anything else.

What happens if they actually break then post "fix"? Are they still liable to cover them or will they just not bother?

Probably only if the offending car goes through SOA main office after loosing control. That is pretty sad these parts can't resist this corrosion.

Yeah there's no doubt you can pull a decent vacuum in the inlet.

 

I guess the point I was trying to make is that if there is significant vacuum in the inlet then that means that part is becoming a restriction. But, I tend to look at things from a hardcore drag racing perspective.

Very true, which means that running a 3" pipe would reduce the amount of inlet vacuum, which means more crank pressure, but should result in less oil consumption.

 

As for high A learning, here is another thread pointing to injectors (mine hit 12% just after 15 miles post reflash). Looks like I need to swap in my other injectors sooner then later. If they are clogged that means I need to get a fuel filter in there too since stock one if failing to do it's job.

Edited September 5, 2014 by covertrussian

After seeing the photo of your TB inlet repair, I think your high A learning is caused by another tear on the bottom side of the hose. If you tightened the hose clamp you probably made it worse. I did the same with mine. The torque spec for the clamp is only 2.2 ft-lb.

Cant you demand they replace those lines? If they wont do ut I would replace them anyway. Cheap insurance against catastrophic failure

Took mine in to get it checked out today WQK-47, Subaru deemed my lines not damaged enough to replace... notice that you can still see the line splitting even after wax.

 

Before:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256529&stc=1&d=1507603526

 

After:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256530&stc=1&d=1507603526

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=256531&stc=1&d=1507603526

 

2017 Update: the lines look way worse even after Subaru's wax "fix".

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257121&stc=1&d=1508820325

 

I ended up replacing the lines with Nickle-Copper Tubing. Full post on rear line replacement can be found here.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=257133&stc=1&d=1508820401

Edited October 24, 2017 by covertrussian

good as new

WTF

 

That's all they do? "F" that, I would look into replacing them with steel braided lines.

WTF

 

That's all they do? "F" that, I would look into replacing them with steel braided lines.

Just be glad we don't have to deal with this mon...

Those hard lines are toast and spraying goop on them is not going to fix the corrosion that has already taken hold.

Sorry you guys have to deal with this rust. Kills me every time I see it.

I almost wanna say, get them replaced and charge back Subaru since recall allows for that. Or drive your car until it starts leaking then take it in...

 

SS lines wont work, these are the hard lines that run under the car to the front.

Thank you Covert. I used your instructions to install a GS light weight crank pulley. Install was super simple.

 

Probably one of the easier things I have done lately.

Haha indeed, it was so easy it even surprised me. I'm starting to get into more and more complex stuff and makes me miss the easy mods . Inlet install pictures coming soon.

Stock turbo inlets suck, they are horrible for flow and tend to rip very easily causing vacuum leaks. Due to vacuum hose location I wouldn't suggest buying an STI inlet if you have a LGT version available, but with hard inlets you only have the STI's style available.

 

I personally got the Perrin STI/FXT/WRX2.0 inlet very cheap (had a tear that needed to be fixed), that's why I ended up using it. In the future I plan on making a custom LGT one though.

 

First remove the intake elbow

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258324&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Then unbolt and remove the MAP, WG solenoid, and unbolt the bracket. Shown is the WG solenoid and hose routing (will come in useful later).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258325&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

More vacuum hoses to remember, bottom most one is the EVAP canister one.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258326&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Remove them all, Valve cover breather is the big 5/8" hose still attached

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258327&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Next unbolt the valve cover breather tube, removing the left heads hose helps you get it out of the way

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258328&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Unbolt the BPV recirculation hose, this will help a lot to remove it from inlet, and will help to reinstall.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258329&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

 

Remove PCV valve cover breather 5/8" hose

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258331&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Pull the wireloom back to expose the PCV "leak detector", this is the last vacuum hose on the stock inlet. It's a little tricky to remove the plastic PCV "leak detector", the pigtail is what locks the leak detector in place.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258330&stc=1&d=1510888312

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258332&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

This will expose the BPV clap, tricky one to remove. You will need to use pliers and pull on the hose to wiggle it out.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258333&stc=1&d=1510888312

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258334&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Unbolt the inlet from the turbo and finally you can pull the stock inlet out.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258335&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

I dunno why people complain about room, plenty of room here for 3" pipe (I tested with a spare elbow I had)

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258336&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Stock vs STI Perrin, you can see the vacuum line difference. The tape you see on it is me fixing a rip from previous owner.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258337&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Slip the new inlet in, not that difficult at all

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258339&stc=1&d=1510888312

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258340&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Stock sensor bracket will no longer fit, remove all of the sensors from it and put it in your left over Legacy parts bin.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258338&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

I had a hard time trying to attach the BPV hose back, turns out the fitting is bigger then stock so it requires some elbow grease to get it in. I found it easier to remove the inlet and insert the pipe into the BPV hose then insert it into the inlet.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258341&stc=1&d=1510888312

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258342&stc=1&d=1510888312

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258343&stc=1&d=1510888312

 

Continued to part 2

Edited April 10, 2018 by covertrussian

Continued from Part 1

 

Another thing to note is, the STI inlet's entrance is slightly smaller then stock, you need to get it tightened well not to leak.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258344&stc=1&d=1510888728

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258345&stc=1&d=1510888728

 

STI inlet tends to rub against the PS pump too, need to put something there to prevent damage to the inlet.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258347&stc=1&d=1510888728

 

Time to put everything back together, this sensor was under the manifold on the bracket we discarded, just shove it back under the manifold.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258346&stc=1&d=1510888728

 

Now the fun begins with figuring out vacuum hoses. Since Perrin inlet, and just about all decent aftermarket ones don't have a PCV hose spot, you need to tee it into the valve cover breather hose. Now Perring suggests you tee it into the left head's breather, I wanted it to be closer to the manifold. I attached a 5/8" 90* premolded hose and ran it to the front and teed it into the valve cover breather hose.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258348&stc=1&d=1510888728

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258349&stc=1&d=1510888728

 

Used another 90* 5/8" premolded hose from my Nissan's, as for the 90* brass bard, I used a 1/2" to 3/4" PEX pipe barb. The EVAP hose (one connected straight into inlet without elbow) is a 1/2" to 3/8" barb adapter (they don't sell 90* elbows at Lowes/Home Depot sadly)

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258350&stc=1&d=1510888728

 

Next you need to pull the metal plug out of the PCV "leak detector", and put it in the plug and tape it off. Alternatively you should be able to disable the CEL with a retune.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258351&stc=1&d=1510888728

 

Added some more clamps and ziptied the MAP senor to make sure it didn't dangle around. This is temporary for me, but will work good enough for a bit.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258352&stc=1&d=1510888728

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258353&stc=1&d=1510888728

 

Power wise the gains seem negligible and could be just typical in between day run difference, but seat of pants did feel the torque. But what you should pay attention to is the AFR's, with the inlet no longer having a vacuum leak AFR's dipped down to 10.5 on the graph. That's stupid rich!

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258354&stc=1&d=1510888728

Edited April 10, 2018 by covertrussian

Have you done a boost leak test yet to make sure there are no other leaks?

Not yet, it's such a pita to get the right PVC adapters for this. I probably should though before digging into injectors. If I do new injectors I plan on doing an inline fuel filter right before hand, so that new ones don't get clogged...

Finally installed the gauges, still need to find a better way to hold them in place though.

 

Moved the radio down to the lower din to make room for the gauges, they refused to fit under the radio. But with some

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1254.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1255.jpg~original

 

Hated to do this, but only spot I really found to run the wires through.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1272.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1273.jpg~original

 

For boost gauge I tapped into the stock MAP sensor's line.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/CIMG1305.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/CIMG1308.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/CIMG1307.jpg~original

 

UPDATE: Boost gauge feed has been rerouted to the FPR nipple.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Boost/20151110_201426.jpg~original

 

 

I used one of the bendable grabbing snakes to pull the wires through and got them in the center console

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1275.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1277.jpg~original

 

Next, clean em up, looks stock (minus the reflashing cable)

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1279.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1280.jpg~original

 

All in place, the bezel no longer fits sadly, will need to figure something out.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1303.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/CIMG1300.jpg~original

Edited April 17, 2016 by covertrussian

Been meaning to do this for a while, but my other car was occupying this sensor. Once I sold it I finally could use it on the Legacy.

 

First, the easiest part if your downpipe has a bunch already...

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1252.jpg~original

 

UEGO has two main wires, one that comes from the O2 sensor and second one is the power delivery + serial out put wire (which sadly you have to wire in yourself). I did this a long time ago so will dig up the steps on how to add serial cable later.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1253.jpg~original

 

I like to use quick disconnects, especially when I tend to move sensors around different cars often. I also like using the fuse splitters, got sick and tired of splicing and re-splicing in car wires.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1258.jpg~original

 

Next thing I like to do is use different ends for power and ground wires, in this case I ended up using different plugs. This will help you avoid plugging in a positive wire into a negative wire (note sensor end is show that's why you see male and female connections).

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1283.jpg~original

 

For ground wire I like to use ECU ground, it keeps readings consistent with what the ECU would see.

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1289.jpg~original

 

For power I tapped into the least useful fuse I could find, 10A LAMP IG

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1295.jpg~original

 

UEGO comes with a bunch of wires, have to tuck it under the radio

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1282.jpg~original

 

Wired in the gauge and tested it before putting it all together

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1285.jpg~original

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1296.jpg~original

 

Heat shield fits well with the wideband in place

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/CIMG1340.jpg~original

 

Now here is why you want a wideband over the stock sensor. Stock sensor doesn't read below 11 AFR, wideband is showing it gets as rich as 10.5:1 afr!

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Interior/Gauges/Wideband/WBOStockvsUEGO.png~original

Edited September 8, 2014 by covertrussian

Not yet, it's such a pita to get the right PVC adapters for this. I probably should though before digging into injectors. If I do new injectors I plan on doing an inline fuel filter right before hand, so that new ones don't get clogged...

 

To pressurize the entire system, I just connected it to the inlet and did a few psi so I dident blow any seals. Then to test the rest of the system I connected it to to my fmic piping and did 25 psi. His avoids having to hassle with the PCV crap and capping it.

With my injectors possibly being dirty, before replacing them I wanted to add a new inline fuel filter so that new injectors don't get clogged. Plus I'm working on eliminating the intake filter eventually, thus an engine bay filter will be needed anyway.

 

Items needed

~12" of 5/16" Fuel injection hose: $8/foot usually, try to find a similar box as pictured you get 18" for similar price.

Fuel line Clamps: $2

Fuel filter: $12 (store brand)

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258377&stc=1&d=1510889828

 

First thing is to drain the fuel out of the fuel lines, the easiest way to do it is to pull the fuel pump fuse (in the engine bay fuse box) while either the car is running, or start the car with the fuse pulled and let it die. This will consume just about all of the fuel in the feed line.

 

Stock fuel lines, top one is the fuel feed line, center one is the EVAP line, and lower line is the fuel return line that goes to the FPR. Connecting the fuel filter to the wrong line will net you without any filtration, which can lead to clogged injectors. The order may be different on your car, verify with your factory service manual. BUT I have found inconsistencies in the manual between which line is which in my 2005 manual (some pages say top hose is feed, some pages say bottom hose is the feed hose).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258374&stc=1&d=1510889828

 

Remove the the fuel injection clamp, you will need a couple more, get them at the dealer on any auto parts stores.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258375&stc=1&d=1510889828

 

If your line is stuck, like mine was, carefully use some pliers to carefully break the line loose by rotating the line.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258376&stc=1&d=1510889828

 

Fuel filter should be properly labeled, if it's not for these filters the center hole is the out to the fuel rail, and the offset one is the feed from the pump.

 

First attempt and at the install, sadly the stock line is not long enough to reach in front of the battery.

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258378&stc=1&d=1510889828

 

Decided to put it closer to the FPR, ziptied it to the TMIC holder (will need to figure something better out later).

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258380&stc=1&d=1510889828

 

All done with the FP gauge attached to the return line:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=258379&stc=1&d=1510889828

Edited November 17, 2017 by covertrussian

Dude you are a legend. Massive thumbs up for posting so many really thorough and informative how to's on various fixes on the LGT. I've learnt a lot from just reading your posts (or more to the point cross referencing parts with your pictures!) cheers

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

X2 what he said ^ .

Went to replace my injectors with the GB remaned ones that I got couple years back (fairly low mile). Found that the spray plates where way different, but still decided to try them out and ended up destroying the o-rings while trying to get them in. The injector holders are a pain to use, ended up having to go back to stock, which I decided to steal the plastic and metal mesh screens from newer injectors. Sadly that still didn't help with A learning

 

How on earth do you guys get the injectors in without doing any damage? What worked for me is tapping the metal bracket that sits ontop, but even then that didn't always work.

 

Here is the spray plates btw, stock on left, GB reman ones on right (they looks like DW850's, but I always ran them at 520cc on my Nissan...)

http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t188/covertrussian/Cars/05%20LGT/Engine/General/Injectors/CIMG1528.jpg~original