LED interior "ambient Lighting

hey!

 

so, I started my LED craze with the license plate lights. From there, i have wired houses/most of my stuff/furniture/everything with LED ambient and accent lighting. I had already replaced all of my interior lights with LEDs, and the map lights on with dome light mod,(http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23139&highlight=festoon) and I wanted something else. A family member had an Audi A8, with ambeint lighting, and most newer cars have it.

looks freaking awesome, man. great job! do you have any plans for footwell lights?

not sure, if i do, I would like some less-powerful LEDs, these things are very bright.

 

What LED lights are you using for your dome, license plate and puddle lights?

 

its posted under the maplights on with the domelight mod thread,

 

 

"Start HERE, then scroll down to 6 LED Super High Flux for the map light bulbs ($9.99 x 2). Next, scroll to 12 LED Two-Face for what I'm using in the front door puddle lights ($11.99 x 2). Finally, scroll to 25 led High Powered SMT Array for the dome light ($24.99). Use the 31mm size for all of them. Total would be $74 for all 5 of them shipped

 

It looks like the fastwrx dome light has a plastic piece you install inside the lens to position the LEDs. I just used a piece of foam tape behind my LED array and used a small flat blade screwdriver to get position it exactly where I wanted it as I snapped the plastic lens back in place. The foam keeps the LED board pressed against the inside of the lens with some light pressure so it doesn't move. "

 

I used a 36 LED cluster (it was cheaper than the 25 cluster, as well ) but that requires a slight mod, as seen in the second post of

http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23139&highlight=festoon&page=9

So, i decided to wire one red LED behind each handle on each door, and also one white LED in the cubbies in the front doors. For this, I tapped into the power and ground that supply the window button LEDs.

 

I also wired four LEDs into the cupholder on the dimmer circuit.

(http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=102411)

 

 

Here are some pics:

http://inlinethumb29.webshots.com/42972/2648990000090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb20.webshots.com/15507/2198797560090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb60.webshots.com/13051/2001812570090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb40.webshots.com/43047/2730720560090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

 

http://inlinethumb06.webshots.com/41925/2942360830090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/44245/2795453680090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb31.webshots.com/14430/2203570570090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

 

 

 

I'll post more of a formal writeup/how-to sometime soon, but i just moved back to college and i'm quite busy

looks freaking awesome, man. great job! do you have any plans for footwell lights?

 

What LED lights are you using for your dome, license plate and puddle lights?

Nice, was thinking of doing the door handles with a strip of led's. My friends 09 m3 has them and it looks great

Looks good, I think I would have done them all in red.

have been trying to scounge up the mula to do something simular

looks freaking awesome, man. great job! do you have any plans for footwell lights?

 

What LED lights are you using for your dome, license plate and puddle lights?

 

added responses/links to original top post

have been trying to scounge up the mula to do something simular

 

its was really cheap!

I can't wait till I have an extra couple of minutes to do this, I have everything I need excepts time!!

More of a writeup, screw college work :-p

 

So, I've already directed you to the specific threads for domelight/maplight mod, and the LED cupholder mods. If you have questions about them, put 'em in their respective threads.

 

Hokay, so, start by removing the door panels.

mad PROPS to deneb for his audio speaker replacement thread, and StopLightAssassin for his thread about door panels. I'll be quoting them both for door panel removal

 

1) First pic: Using a flathead screwdriver or similar tool, pry off the door handle cover. Pry down and out, this is easily the most difficult part of removing the door panel. Once you get the cover out a little ways, you may want to stick the pry tool down into the space created to get more leverage. There are three clips that hold the cover onto the handle, I actually broke one on at least one of my doors but it didn't seem to make any difference when reassembling the door panel.

http://inlinethumb63.webshots.com/14782/2659836570090682233S600x600Q85.jpg[/url]

 

2) Second pic: Using a phillips head screwdriver, remove the two screws that secure the door panel to the door. Pic shows the location of the upper screw, the lower is easily visible.

http://inlinethumb18.webshots.com/1873/2693754040090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

 

3) Third pic: Using a flat head screwdriver or similar tool, pry out the cover behind the door latch. Remove the screw.

http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/42026/2248590700090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

 

4) Fourth pic: Pry off the cover at the top of the door where the door meets the A pillar (applicable to front doors only)

http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/42742/2172891170090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

 

5) Fifth pic: Remove the door panel. There are several clips that secure the door panel to the door, these pry off fairly easily (or rather, the panel pops off pretty easily as you pry it off from the door. I was able to do this just using my hands and no other tools). Remove the wiring harnesses and door locking cables. Pic shows the door after the panel is removed.

http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/28977/2901266960090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

My picture shows the wiring harness for the power window switch, door lever, and door lock which all have to be removed.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/jjbhoops/door/door_disconnect.jpg?t=1228599809

 

Here is a different view of the door handle/lock assembly:http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b209/jjbhoops/door/Door_mech_disconnect.jpg?t=1228599988

 

There is a door covering the assembly which just has to be popped open. Then disconnect the handle cable and lock cable by first unclipping them. The cables can then be disconnected completely from the door by angling them and lifting them out. It is extremely easy.

 

 

At this point, your door panel should be completely disconnected.

Now you got your doors apart!! YAY!

 

I used 5mm pre-wired (they have the resistors built in, rady for 12V automotive application) from oznium.com, http://www.oznium.com/prewired-leds

 

choose your color, and use the 5mm size.

 

Next, I used a Dremel on the ends of the LEDs

http://www.oznium.com/images/5mm_led_dimension_diagram.jpg

See how its rounded? yeah. get rid of that! so its flat. This diffuses the light evenly: the purpose of that curvature is to focus the LED, and it looks BAD!

next, find where you want to mount them. I chose directly on the inside of the black handles, and on the tops of the front door cubbies. in these general areas. ish.

http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/44641/2706150590090682233S600x600Q85.jpg

 

You'll be able to see the holes from where you removed the handle screws, and can decide where to mount them for yourself.

 

Once you marked the spots, I started with small drillbits, and worked my way until the hole was 5mm in diameter, to fit the LEDs. i showed them in, and covered them in hot glue.. was the simplest way for me.

 

I mounted the LED + and - wires to quick-connects

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104017

 

All wire used was 22 gauge stranded, anything larger is really not necessary.

 

now, here's a key to wire power and grounds, each on the power window switch wire clip.

Front Driver: +) the thick green wire in the middle. its in the middle on top and BIG. yeah. you'll see what I mean (-)BIG wire again. and black. easy.

Front Pass: (+) thick green wire in the middle (-) its on the side, It was blue/silver striped just like the rear doors, but on a friend's it was green/silver striped .

Rear seats:(+) the thick green wire in the middle. (-) smaller. blue with silver stripes, on the side. watch out! there is an almost identical blue/silver wire, which is a ground, with a green bottom. BEWARE!! its the ground that ells the window to go up or down aka not out wire.

 

I tapped into these by pulling the black electrical tape back, and using wire tap-ins

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2104093

 

to these, I connected the other opposing (male/female) ends of the quick disconnects.

 

test them,and then I covered the disconnects in electrical tape to protect from shorts

pop the doors back in, and put in the screws, and DONE! easy! yay! post pics!

 

Feel free to ask any questions, I probably missed a few things and will update accordingly to clarify.

Just to clarify for myself:

 

The positive on both front doors is the thick green wire and the negatives are Driver-black and Pass-blue/silver? And are those the positives for the lights on the window switches (i.e. turn on with the headlights)?

 

thanks

Just to clarify for myself:

 

The positive on both front doors is the thick green wire and the negatives are Driver-black and Pass-blue/silver? And are those the positives for the lights on the window switches (i.e. turn on with the headlights)?

 

thanks

 

that is correct, I ran power from the lights in the door switched aka go on with the headlights/other illuminated buttons

sweet, nice work thanks for the info, I'll post some pics as soon as I can get around to installing them

 

Sweet!

I like it! Good Job!

Very cool!

I think the LEDs are a little birght for me, but I like the work and the idea.

I think the LEDs are a little birght for me, but I like the work and the idea.

I really dont find the red ones behind the handles to bee too bright, but the cupholder ones definately are- i'm probably going to go back in and add some more resistance in the wires

Yea, I think that'd be a good idea. I thought about the door panel part as an ambient light, like you almost cant tell its there, but you can see almost like your eyes have adjusted to the darkness kinda.

 

acura did a real good job with this in the TSX. It took me a few rides with my buddy to realize that it was a light and not just my eyes.

I want to put on my map-light lens without the opague "shade" part of it.

Unfortunately the clear lens clips to the shade, and then the whole assembly

clips into the light fixture. It won't attach with just the clear lens; any clever

ideas for how to attach it so's it's not too hard to remove when bulbs expire ?

Thanks.

use LEDs, and you'll never have to take it off again

I want to put on my map-light lens without the opague "shade" part of it.

Unfortunately the clear lens clips to the shade, and then the whole assembly

clips into the light fixture. It won't attach with just the clear lens; any clever

ideas for how to attach it so's it's not too hard to remove when bulbs expire ?

Thanks.

 

I can totally understand why. the stock map lights are pathetic.

I was thinking about trimming out the opaque part near the bulb (simply expanding the 'let through'), then maybe polishing the window so it's more clear and not 'frosted'.

However, I just put in some 1 watt X 3 led rigid loop festoons (from autolumination) up there and the improvement is outstanding, so i'm debating my original plan -- will post pics when i get a chance. i also did their 25 led array in the dome, not as dramatic, but very good improvement as well -- i might double up on those actually.

 

and that's really great work, ArcTec34

I can totally understand why. the stock map lights are pathetic.

I was thinking about trimming out the opaque part near the bulb (simply expanding the 'let through'), then maybe polishing the window so it's more clear and not 'frosted'.

That's what I was thinking of doing at first, but then realized it'd be simpler

just to leave out the opague piece - it's plenty bright enough like that.

 

But I guess I'm convinced it's simpler still to just use LED bulbs. Then they

won't burn out, like ArcTec34 sez, plus, for car camping, the reduced current

draw is helpful.

 

However, I just put in some 1 watt X 3 led rigid loop festoons (from autolumination) up there and the improvement is outstanding, so i'm debating my original plan -- will post pics when i get a chance. i also did their 25 led array in the dome, not as dramatic, but very good improvement as well -- i might double up on those actually.

 

Wow, that's cool website. Can you be more specific about which part

numbers you used for the map lights ? Doesn't look to me like any of

the "rigid loop" (what the heck does that mean ?) ones are the 31mm

size.

yeh, the ones i'm using are the 44mm 'rigid loop 3 watt'. i had to do a little this-and-that for them to attach.

if you look at the ends of the item, you'll see what rigid loop means

some wire from the loops to some female clips = simple solution to me.

9.99 a pop, and they are crazy bright.

as a matter of fact, looking at them last night, the tiny frosted windows are only allowing 2/3 leds each to get through -- it's still a vast improvement, and worth a few minutes to rig up.

really it seems like the strong ones only come in the large 44mm size.

i bet you could use a 25 led array in 31 mm for each of those with great results, and a stock fit, but that would be 50 bucks instead of 20.