StoplightAssassin Posted May 10, 2012 Share Posted May 10, 2012 What sealant are you guys using...fujibond, hondabond ht, pepboys rtv? Fujibond is $37 Also just confirming the only thing the ej255 needs is the gasket. It's only the ej257 needs the half moon seals...correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dcb122580 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 It makes it easier to do the valve cover gaskets if you take off the motor mount nuts and jack the motor up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhino6303 Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 What sealant are you guys using...fujibond, hondabond ht, pepboys rtv? Fujibond is $37 Also just confirming the only thing the ej255 needs is the gasket. It's only the ej257 needs the half moon seals...correct? I just used Ultra Grey sealant and it has always worked well. Also, the ej255 needs both the gasket and the half moon seals. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 11, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 11, 2012 I'm going to have to do this soon...passenger side's leaking. I guess I'll wait it out until it's time for plugs again and do them at the same time. Maybe I'll try jacking up the engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted May 11, 2012 Share Posted May 11, 2012 If your going to do this by jacking up the motor, make sure you can break the motor mounts loose before you do anything else. They can be a pita. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted May 11, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted May 11, 2012 Good tip. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted November 27, 2012 Share Posted November 27, 2012 (edited) EDIT*** I remember having this conversation about the breather hoses already Disregard the following: So for the valve cover breather hoses... I'm trying to pop those loose BEFORE I pry the VC off and it's kicking my ass :-( Will they flex enough ,w/o kinking, to remove them after the VC is free? Edited November 27, 2012 by TheBlackPearl Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ViscousSquirrel Posted December 5, 2012 Share Posted December 5, 2012 Grab them with some pliers and twist them a bit. then jam a flathead underneath and twist. odds are they are old and hard and going to split anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owenmaxx Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 We can do the VCG if need be. We charge about 300 for the labor on both sides. Let us know if you need us to help out. -mike http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/91072632.jpghttp://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/141039922.jpg http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/133406601.jpg http://upload.pbase.com/image/137566671.jpg 11+ Years Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Subaru Enthusiasts. Call directly as We carry almost every manufacturer now, so before you buy parts call us. AIM: AZP Installs | E-mail: paisan@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) | T-1 Certified Amsoil Direct Jobber "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" Maybe on the azp site I read wrong thought it was 2200 to do the valve over job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Maybe on the azp site I read wrong thought it was 2200 to do the valve over job? That's for the head gaskets. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
owenmaxx Posted December 6, 2012 Share Posted December 6, 2012 Oh my bad^.. Lolz 2 hours sleep runs a toll Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qikslvr Posted December 24, 2012 Share Posted December 24, 2012 (edited) Grab them with some pliers and twist them a bit. then jam a flathead underneath and twist. odds are they are old and hard and going to split anyway. Doing mine right now and found that heating the hoses up with with a hair dryer to soften them up a little and makes it easier to get them off without damaging the ends of the hoses. Edited December 25, 2012 by qikslvr Let's kick this pig! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjtjp Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Didn't want to make a new thread just to ask this question. I'm about to do this project early next week and wanted to make sure I have everything straight. What is the sealant waiting process? Seal it up, reassemble and just wait for it to set up before cranking? Or do you sort of glue the gasket to the surface and allow that to set up before reassembly? The FSM reads: (1) Install the gasket on rocker cover. Install the peripheral gasket and ignition coil gasket. (2) Apply liquid gasket to the designated point of cylinder head. I take that to mean sealant goes between cyl head and gasket, but the wording leaves plenty to the imagination. Some clarification would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12sechatch Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Yes, sealant between the head and gasket. I find it easiest to put the gasket in the valve cover "slot" and then put the sealant on top of the gasket in the places it calls for it. Then, snake the valve cover unit in and bolt it all up. Make sure to confirm you didn't unseat the gasket when trying to snake it in. Once you tighten everything up, go dosomething else for the rest of the night. Come back in the morning and drive away knowing it dried overnight. The idea is you don't want oil coming in contact with the sealant prematurely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjtjp Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 Thanks, I greatly appreciate it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjtjp Posted December 18, 2013 Share Posted December 18, 2013 I made two rookie mistake tonight. 1st one was not verifying the part numbers before beginning the job. I ordered a part ending in A040 instead of A140. The second was leaving on an old spark plug well gasket and I didn't realize it until all the bolts were started back. Combined it doubled the time this job should have taken. Otherwise, it wasn't too bad. I just hope that I used enough permatex and I did it quickly enough since I had to remove and install the cover twice. Should I be worried about that? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibumnelson Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 I know it's an older thread, but wanted to thank everyone on here, for ask the information. Patience was the key ingredient for this job. Just started the car up and ruining great, still a little bit of residual oil in the area. So hopefully it burns off and I fixed the leak! Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted October 6, 2014 Share Posted October 6, 2014 Gasket maker is unnecessary, the gaskets are molded rubber and are not designed to have RTV silicone applied. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated bucko3the7man Posted November 17, 2014 I Donated Share Posted November 17, 2014 When you guys do these, does anyone disconnect the motor mount nuts and jack the engine up for ease? if so, where do you jack if you're only jacking one side at a time? When I did the oil pan last year I just unbolted both and lifted by the headers but I feel like if I'm leaving one on then I don't think I should do that again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Leviman Posted November 17, 2014 Share Posted November 17, 2014 I jacked on the transmission and just raised both sides when I did mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 About to walk down to my garage and start this project, in this cold weather when starting up the oil leak is ATROCIOUS and it comes straight into the cabin through the HVAC system. I suspect I'll need to replace the cabin air filter after completing this job. I'll let you guys know how it goes. Thank ye olde gods for flex head ratchets! One question- to RTV or not the new half-moon seals? I'm thinking I will put some on just to be on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjtjp Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Good luck! You definitely need to RTV the half moons. They are plastic and won't seal otherwise. A pretty good sized bead on the curved section and just a tiny bit at the top corners worked well for mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 Good luck! You definitely need to RTV the half moons. They are plastic and won't seal otherwise. A pretty good sized bead on the curved section and just a tiny bit at the top corners worked well for mine. This. Needs UltraBlack. Not an option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brock Samson Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 No idea what I did wrong, but hooo boy is it ****ed. After letting the RTV (I used copper, which I read elsewhere was just fine for valve covers) cure overnight, I started her up this morning. The valve cover started pissing oil everywhere, and now I've got about a 1/2 qt on my garage floor. It felt like the gasket was on fine and the bolts torqued down nicely. I haven't had time yet to actually look at it and troubleshoot, I'm hoping its something simple that doesn't require removing the cover and checking the gasket again. Also, I removed the turbo coolant breather tank to make access a little easier as opposed to jacking the engine up. Its hard to say which is more/less work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrTris Posted November 19, 2014 Share Posted November 19, 2014 No idea what I did wrong, but hooo boy is it ****ed. After letting the RTV (I used copper, which I read elsewhere was just fine for valve covers) cure overnight, I started her up this morning. The valve cover started pissing oil everywhere, and now I've got about a 1/2 qt on my garage floor. It felt like the gasket was on fine and the bolts torqued down nicely. I haven't had time yet to actually look at it and troubleshoot, I'm hoping its something simple that doesn't require removing the cover and checking the gasket again. Also, I removed the turbo coolant breather tank to make access a little easier as opposed to jacking the engine up. Its hard to say which is more/less work. Things you learned today: copper isn't Permatex UltraBlack. It doesn't seal oil. Get a tube of UltraBlack and do it right. Send me a PM if you want to exchange numbers and I can walk you through the correct application of the sealant to the gasket. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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