Whiteline Sway Bars?

Hey guys,

I have an 09 Legacy 2.5i, looking for both front and rear sway bars and I had seen Whiteline recommended on some of the 5th gen Legacys. I was just wondering if thats a generally recommended brand, and if y'all have better suggestions, what brand and size would they be?

yuo have a 4th gen LGT. Whiteline is a good brand.

What problem are you trying to fix?

yuo have a 4th gen LGT. Whiteline is a good brand.

 

What problem are you trying to fix?

We love the WL stuff. Very good quality and great customer service to us for the past 15 or so years.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Hey guys,

 

I have an 09 Legacy 2.5i, looking for both front and rear sway bars and I had seen Whiteline recommended on some of the 5th gen Legacys. I was just wondering if thats a generally recommended brand, and if y'all have better suggestions, what brand and size would they be?

For the rear you can use the same ones as the 2.5Turbo Legacy. 22mm Adjustable. For the front I would get a 20 or 22 but that is specific to the non-turbo as you have a different front cross member and mounting setup.

Shoot us an e-mail and we can get you some quotes and have the parts drop shipped if you want!

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

I am driving a 2008 Legacy 2.5i and I could also use some help... I'm relatively new to AutoX and I am wondering about sway bars for the class that I run in - H Street. It is basically the former H Stock, but now on street tires.

The new class rules state that the "substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-sway bar and supporting hardware is permitted." So, what single sway bar modification will give the best handling improvement? As is, the car dips and rolls hard under extreme handling, and generally under steers pretty bad. Thoughts?

Thomas

I am driving a 2008 Legacy 2.5i and I could also use some help... I'm relatively new to AutoX and I am wondering about sway bars for the class that I run in - H Street. It is basically the former H Stock, but now on street tires.

 

The new class rules state that the "substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-sway bar and supporting hardware is permitted." So, what single sway bar modification will give the best handling improvement? As is, the car dips and rolls hard under extreme handling, and generally under steers pretty bad. Thoughts?

 

Thomas

I would go with rear WL 22mm adjustable along with end links and the reinforcement bracket if you can find it out there.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

I am driving a 2008 Legacy 2.5i and I could also use some help... I'm relatively new to AutoX and I am wondering about sway bars for the class that I run in - H Street. It is basically the former H Stock, but now on street tires.

 

The new class rules state that the "substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-sway bar and supporting hardware is permitted." So, what single sway bar modification will give the best handling improvement? As is, the car dips and rolls hard under extreme handling, and generally under steers pretty bad. Thoughts?

 

Thomas

link to rules?

I'm using white line sways and kartboy endlinks.

They are nice but I wish they had more rust coating on them.

link to rules?

http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/assets/2014%20Solo%20Rules%20Book%207%20w%20cover%20and%20links.pdf

Pages 76-78

Thomas

I would go with rear WL 22mm adjustable along with end links and the reinforcement bracket if you can find it out there.

 

-Mike Paisan

 

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Mike, what would you anticipate as a comprehensive parts cost total for your recommendation? I am attempting to shoot for bargain options, so my first thought was to try out a used 19mm STI rsb from someone locally. I don't want it to be a waste of time though if it doesn't improve cornering. Thanks for the help!

Thomas

Mike, what would you anticipate as a comprehensive parts cost total for your recommendation? I am attempting to shoot for bargain options, so my first thought was to try out a used 19mm STI rsb from someone locally. I don't want it to be a waste of time though if it doesn't improve cornering. Thanks for the help!

 

Thomas

That's a route for sure and it will definitely be cheaper.

IIRC the WL bars are about $200 and the Endlinks are about $120 give or take.

The reinforcement brackets are hard to come by but usually around $100.

-mike

rules for street are very tight - obviously they had alot of variety of interpretations over the years.

you can replace one bar and it's endlinks and it's bushings and it's mounting bracket. Not some on one and some on the other.

exact wording:

3.7 ANTI-ROLL (SWAY) BARSA. Substitution, addition, or removal of a single anti-roll bar and support-

ing hardware (brackets, endlinks, bushings, etc.) is permitted. The

use of any bushing material is permitted. A bushing may be imple-

mented as a bearing.

B. Substitution, addition, or removal of anti-roll bars may serve no other

purpose than that of an anti-roll bar.

C. No modification to the body, frame, or other components to accom-

modate anti-roll bar addition or substitution is allowed except for the

drilling of holes for mounting bolts. Non-standard lateral members

which connect between the brackets for the bar are not permitted

there is an interesting note about using double-adjustable shocks with an external reservoir. However, you have to use the stock spring. so not sure how that would work.

And there is a note about using suspension components from the same model and year. However, it doesn't denote between countries where part can be obtained. If you were to swap in components from a JDM year/model vehicle, in theory, that would be legal - as all are made by Subaru.

Mike, what would you anticipate as a comprehensive parts cost total for your recommendation? I am attempting to shoot for bargain options, so my first thought was to try out a used 19mm STI rsb from someone locally. I don't want it to be a waste of time though if it doesn't improve cornering. Thanks for the help!

 

Thomas

That's a route for sure and it will definitely be cheaper.

 

IIRC the WL bars are about $200 and the Endlinks are about $120 give or take.

 

The reinforcement brackets are hard to come by but usually around $100.

 

-mike

Here again, I'd suggest checking the size of swaybar on various 2008 Legacy. IDK if the sways are different between auto/manual, or if you could swap in an LGT sway.

Going with a solid endlink that was shorter might add more stiffness to the equation while still following the rules.

You don't say, but what are you running for tires/wheels/tire pressure? Have you defeated the traction control systems? Have you adjusted the camber to its max?

Do you strip your car of all its weight and run with minimal gas (less than 5 gallons)?

Here again, I'd suggest checking the size of swaybar on various 2008 Legacy. IDK if the sways are different between auto/manual, or if you could swap in an LGT sway.

 

Going with a solid endlink that was shorter might add more stiffness to the equation while still following the rules.

 

You don't say, but what are you running for tires/wheels/tire pressure? Have you defeated the traction control systems? Have you adjusted the camber to its max?

 

Do you strip your car of all its weight and run with minimal gas (less than 5 gallons)?

First off, a little background. I normally AutoX and RallyX my 2008 Forester X, because the 2008 2.5i Legacy is my wife's daily car. I race on an extremely frugal budget, but my talent is starting to reach to limits of my cars' abilities. I'm considering swapping over to the Legacy for more of the AutoXs because of the lower center of gravity, less weight, etc.

I'm running used 225/50/16 Dunlop Direzzia ZZ101's on 16" 2003 WRX 10 spoke wheels. I picked the set up for super cheap, so I throw them on the Forester on AutoX weekends. My pressures are usually around 37-39 psi front and 39-47 psi in the rear, depending on weather and temperature. I have tried it with the ABS off but find I'm faster with it enabled - plus I can't flat spot the tires. Not sure if their is anything else limiting me through other traction control features. If so, please enlighten me!

I have not adjusted camber because it's a daily driver and don't want to have uneven tread wear.

Street category doesn't allow stripping of any normal components installed from the factory, but I do remove the jack, spare tire, etc. I try to show up just as the empty light is about to kick on.

I've been reading a bit and feel a decent next step is to find and install a stiffer RSB to help with under steer and body roll. Upgraded shocks and all that would be great, but I doubt ill spring for something like that unless the price is right. I'm also at the point where I'm debating getting a dedicated AutoX junker, but I fear more time and money would be sunk into that endeavor, with no assurances it would actually make my times any faster.

Thanks for your input!

Thomas

I'm also at the point where I'm debating getting a dedicated AutoX junker, but I fear more time and money would be sunk into that endeavor, with no assurances it would actually make my times any faster.

 

Thanks for your input!

Of all the things you have said, I'm suggesting (telling would fall on deaf ears) you do this. You spend an extraordinary amount of money and make either car handle much better. Look up stoplightassisin's, xenonk's, drifttiger's posts for much better detail.

You can also look at the cars that are currently winning in your region and buy one of them. You'll likely be faster right away. Then again, now you'll be racing against others who have more money.

You need to ask yourself why you autox. This will determine what you should do. If for fun, then mod your wife's car. If for anything else, buy another more suitable car. Coming to any other conclusion will be an unpleasant financial experience.

I suggest a Miata, partly because you can get one cheaply, and partly because parts/tires/brakes are cheap. If you can drive a Miata fast, you can then graduate to something more difficult probably with a sponsor or a second job.

Cards on the table:

I started with a stock wagon, and put on front/rear swaybars. When I exceeded that, I swapped tires/wheels. When I exceeded that, ok, well, shortly after that I blew my engine. And things go really expensive. Two years ago after a scary brake failure, I started searching for a more suitable car. I bought a Miata. I could have saved myself a boatload of money buying the Miata instead of turning the wagon into the Q-ship that it is today. I'd probably be the driver I am now or maybe, even further along.

Well you've nailed it on the head... I do it for fun, but am starting to want to actually compete. I'll probably stick to the Forester/Legacy for this season and look for a sweet deal on a dedicated car.

So, for the time being... What are the best options for a used RSB that will fit the Legacy? Is there a resource that shows components that fit the '08 2.5i? I don't want to go bonkers stiff, as it will be my wife's daily and I don't want emergency maneuvering to be compromised. I'm just not sure what fits!

Thomas

Well you've nailed it on the head... I do it for fun, but am starting to want to actually compete. I'll probably stick to the Forester/Legacy for this season and look for a sweet deal on a dedicated car.

 

So, for the time being... What are the best options for a used RSB that will fit the Legacy? Is there a resource that shows components that fit the '08 2.5i? I don't want to go bonkers stiff, as it will be my wife's daily and I don't want emergency maneuvering to be compromised. I'm just not sure what fits!

 

Thomas

For the rear, anything for a LGT will fit.

-Mike Paisan

http://www.pbase.com/paisan/image/153798190.jpg

Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001.

Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs

"Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!"

Of all the things you have said, I'm suggesting (telling would fall on deaf ears) you do this. You spend an extraordinary amount of money and make either car handle much better. Look up stoplightassisin's, xenonk's, drifttiger's posts for much better detail.

 

You can also look at the cars that are currently winning in your region and buy one of them. You'll likely be faster right away. Then again, now you'll be racing against others who have more money.

 

You need to ask yourself why you autox. This will determine what you should do. If for fun, then mod your wife's car. If for anything else, buy another more suitable car. Coming to any other conclusion will be an unpleasant financial experience.

 

I suggest a Miata, partly because you can get one cheaply, and partly because parts/tires/brakes are cheap. If you can drive a Miata fast, you can then graduate to something more difficult probably with a sponsor or a second job.

 

Cards on the table:

I started with a stock wagon, and put on front/rear swaybars. When I exceeded that, I swapped tires/wheels. When I exceeded that, ok, well, shortly after that I blew my engine. And things go really expensive. Two years ago after a scary brake failure, I started searching for a more suitable car. I bought a Miata. I could have saved myself a boatload of money buying the Miata instead of turning the wagon into the Q-ship that it is today. I'd probably be the driver I am now or maybe, even further along.

And don't give up on the miata!

My buddy built a brand new 2011 Caymen S into a racecar. He now has it up for sale after putting about $130,000 into it and already bought 3 spec miatas to race! The racing is tighter and way more fun, and economical!

-mike

And don't give up on the miata!

 

My buddy built a brand new 2011 Caymen S into a racecar. He now has it up for sale after putting about $130,000 into it and already bought 3 spec miatas to race! The racing is tighter and way more fun, and economical!

 

-mike

Thanks. Posted up my 2014 race schedule - http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/boxkita-racing-track-days-2014-222182.html. Back at it and more serious, er, spending more money.

Is a Miata less expensive than a 1st/2nd gen RX7? How come the Miata's get all the love?

cause everything about them is easy and they are built like a tank. I've done two 100mph offs getting airborne both times, first time I shut off to abandon ship then realized everything was ok. The second time, I never lifted and kept going from the dirt back onto the track. Anyone can work on them with a metric set of tools. And they are very cheap to buy, on top of which ppl have been racing them for more than 2 decades.