Fuel Injectors, maybe a tune?

Hi all, **Update 10/06/12** See post on this date.

I have an 05 Legacy GT Turbo with 117K miles on the odometer. It's been a great car. Two wheel bearings, battery and a turbo at 58K--replaced under warranty.

 

I recently been getting Cylinder misfire codes. They started right after my 100K mile tune-up---not sure if it's related or coincidence.

 

Anyway, had a PO301, the dealer tried almost everything but to no success. Finally moved the injector to cylinder 4 but the CEL did not follow the move so who knows...

 

17K miles later I get a PO302. I'm thinking about changing the injectors as that seems to be a common issue as these cars age or at least from what I can find.

 

My questions are, where is the best place to buy the injectors and is FJ942 the correct one? Again, 05 Turbo 2.5L

 

I've contemplated purchasing a bigger injector and getting a tune but I honestly don't know enough about it or where to start. I'd love for the car to run a little better. Can someone give me some pointers on that or do you all think I should just keep it stock/factory??

I guess if I'm going to make a change, now is the time to do it. If I do go with an aftermarket injector, how do I go about getting it tuned and is there anything else involved, like a high flow fuel pump etc?? Sorry if I'm talking like an amateur but I've never changed anything on this car or any car but there's a first time for everything....

 

Thanks!!

If i were you I would do a compression check, boost leak check and a leak down test before you put any money into it. Just b/c you have fuel and spark doesnt mean there couldnt be something else causing the misfire. Have a fuel system cleaning done or sea-foam the shit outta it. Did they swap coils? coils are more known than injectors. Factory spark plugs/gap?

Thanks!! The car runs great and I don't even realize the CEL and blinking cruise light are on until I look down at the gauges--meaning the car doesn't shake, rattle or make a noise that I can tell.

 

After the first PO301, they changed the coil but the light came back on. Before that, at the 100k tune up, it got all new spark plugs. They did change the spark plug again when I got the PO301 the first time but it came back on. They also did the fuel system clean at 100K, whatever that entails.

 

I bought a can of seafoam and dumped the bottle in it at least fill-up. So far I have less than 100 miles on the tank and no CEL as I reset it the last time--I can't stand not having cruise. The dealer is aware its PO302 this time as they checked it first and made a note in their computer system. It came back on again and a friend checked it and it was the same code so I had him clear it and am trying the seafoam. **fingers crossed**

 

My wife and I LOVE this little car. It goes great in the winter as long as the snow isn't too deep and is just fun to drive all year round.

Sea-foam goes like this.. 1/3 in tank, 1/3 in crankcase, 1/3 sucked into intake through vacuum line (very slowly).. Then change oil.. Did you get the 100k service done at dealer? if not did they use NGK plugs? If they are not NGKs get them OUTTA THERE NOW!!

If the CEL is blinking, you really shouldnt be driving it at all.. that means things will go boom

Yikes! I put an entire bottle in the gas at fill-up. I then put 1.5 ounce per quart in the oil. Not sure about doing the vacuum lines. Yes I did get the 100k at the dealer and they used the same plug that was in it according to them. That's the first time they had been changed. No, the CEL is not blinking. just the cruise light. Drove it at lunch for about 20 miles and the light has stayed off so far. Probably just a matter of time before it's back on and I end up at the dealer.

Is this a 5mt or automatic ?

 

The flashing cruise may be something different.

 

Don't worry about the full can in the tank, no harm can be done.

 

Now as for in the oil, you'll want to change the oil very soon, today would be great. These things done like thin oil.

 

I gather the car has alway's been on the stock MAP. It is known to be flawed and burn valves. That could be the source of the miss fire.

It is an Auto. The flashing cruise comes on when I get the CEL for the cylinder misfire. I'll get the oil changed ASAP. It has less than 100 miles on it with the Seafoam. Yes, everything is stock. The stock MAP is known to be flawed and burn valves? Am I understanding you correctly? If so, what should/can be done moving forward??

Get the car tuned or put it on Cobb AP v2. But it's kinds of late for that now.

 

Long story but it's true, the Tuners have found the flaw and have fixed it.

 

There threads here about just flashing cruise light's. I know how to fix it on a 5mt, I don't read much about 5eat but I seem to recall a thread about it.

 

Oh yes that's normal for the cruise to flash when you get a CEl, I thought you now, only have a flashing cruise and no CEL.

 

Moving forward, if the missfire comes back, have a compression test done.

 

You say the coils are fine. They moved the injector and code did not follow. Next in IMO is compression test and may be a leak down test.

if i were you i would do a compression check, boost leak check and a leak down test before you put any money into it. Just b/c you have fuel and spark doesnt mean there couldnt be something else causing the misfire. Have a fuel system cleaning done or sea-foam the shit outta it. Did they swap coils? Coils are more known than injectors. Factory spark plugs/gap?

^ +1

Thanks for the +1. I just began to think about the natural sequence I would follow.

 

OP, I learned about the timing flaw from my Tuner. When I told my buddy who owns a auto machine shop that does a lot of dealer work about the timing flaw, he says, "oh that explains why so many head come from the dealerships with burnt valves".

Thanks for the replies, help and info! Update!

 

I've driven 200 miles since I reset the PO302 cylinder 2 misfire and that's when I added the seafoam to the gas and to the oil. Car is running fine--but it always did run fine. No issues to report at all right now so who knows.....Changed the oil yesterday after 110 miles of having seafoam in the oil.

 

One other thing: For the last few years (3-4) the car has idled rough. The rpm gauge doesn't seem to fluctuate but while sitting in the car and idling, you can feel the entire car shake. Not like a roller-coaster but you can certainly feel it. It may idle smooth for a few seconds and then shake, then smooth, then shake. Dealership said that was "normal".

The only other thing it does is this: Engine sounds like it is "tapping" and it's done that for as long as I can remember. Dealership again said that is "normal" for that car.

take a video of the noises

and resetting the CEL doesn't mean the problem has been solved. you need to diagnose the issue if you want it fixed, these cars can take a few misfire counts before a cel is thrown, so it's likely still missing, just not to the point of a cel. and I'm sure it will pop up again.

 

compression check

boost leak test

take a video of the noises

 

 

I'll give it a try and see if it picks up on my phone well enough to hear.

and resetting the CEL doesn't mean the problem has been solved. you need to diagnose the issue if you want it fixed, these cars can take a few misfire counts before a cel is thrown, so it's likely still missing, just not to the point of a cel. and I'm sure it will pop up again.

 

compression check

boost leak test

 

^+1

is there an echo in this thread?? OP I would do the compression and leak-down test ASAP, otherwise your chasing your tail..

Thanks for the replies, help and info! Update!

 

I've driven 200 miles since I reset the PO302 cylinder 2 misfire and that's when I added the seafoam to the gas and to the oil. Car is running fine--but it always did run fine. No issues to report at all right now so who knows.....Changed the oil yesterday after 110 miles of having seafoam in the oil.

 

One other thing: For the last few years (3-4) the car has idled rough. The rpm gauge doesn't seem to fluctuate but while sitting in the car and idling, you can feel the entire car shake. Not like a roller-coaster but you can certainly feel it. It may idle smooth for a few seconds and then shake, then smooth, then shake. Dealership said that was "normal".

The only other thing it does is this: Engine sounds like it is "tapping" and it's done that for as long as I can remember. Dealership again said that is "normal" for that car.

 

These engines cause a little more shake/vibration @ idle then others, they are boxer engines and if you think about it the firing order would cause it to shake a little left/right/left/right while firing, check your motor mounts they may be weak

The EJ series always makes a little tapping, what you need to be concerned about is if the tapping gets worse over time. The engines need cam/valve lash etc, but it its getting worse you have a wear problem somehwere internally

I'll drop by a local engine builders shop this afternoon. I'll let you know the results once he can get it in.

Got the car back yesterday. Compression/leak down test completed. Guy said the car passed with flying colors. Said the results were " like a much newer car". Still no check engine light since I used the sea foam.