2007-2009 Air Pump Delete with CEL codes and ECU Fix-Pix too

Thats the PCV to inlet tube connector. If you want to delete it (PCV) Cut off the white portion that is plugged into the gray connector and then plug it back in. Thats all you need. You can cap the fitting on the inlet tube and run the "PCV" to your AOS.

Thats the PCV to inlet tube connector. If you want to delete it (PCV) Cut off the white portion that is plugged into the gray connector and then plug it back in. Thats all you need. You can cap the fitting on the inlet tube and run the "PCV" to your AOS.

 

Wow I didn't know it was that big of deal. It has an aftermarket inlet, which I noticed the bpv recirc hose is capped because of a cheap ebay bov installed. I bought an oem bypass, guess I need to find a recirc hose.

 

I'm just trying to put the car back to stock, expect the air pump. Isn't pcv important? So if I wanted to keep the pcv I would only need to plug it back in the inlet? Maybe the inlet didn't have a port for it? The only codes I have is for "secondary air injection"

 

Thanx for the replies everyone, not trying to thread jack, just need some help putting my car back together. I have the block off plates on order, and will be pulling turbo and all this weekend to do air pump/uppipe so hopefully I can get it all done while I'm in there

I would keep the PCV.

 

If returning to stock then, the back side (female) of the white connector goes into the inlet tube. The inlet tube has the "male" parts to fit to the "female" parts of the connector. The "male" side of the connector is what the PCV hose connects to. One side of the PCV to the crankcase, one hose to the manifold and one to the inlet tube. Hope this makes some sense without a picture.

Ok, it's currently hooked up strait from the inlet to the crank under turbo. I was reading on the Perrin inlet, appently it does the same kind of thing bypassing the connector, but i got way confused on those directions. It would help if I had the oem parts so I could tell how it all goes. Would the Perrin inlet work like you are saying?

Perrin inlet tube deletes the PCV return to Inlet tube. You would cut off the part of the white connector that actually plugs into the gray connector and ditch the rest. It is basically a jumper (look at it, you can clearly see the solid metal jumping the two prongs together).

I have a 06, so no air pump, but if I understand you I can get rid of the PCV hose that goes to the inlet and just run the part that goes from block to intake mani?

Some PCV basics:

Piston rings do not seal 100% and as a result, pressurized gasses from the combustion process will leak out into the crankcase area of the engine, this is known as "blow by". This is just a fact of our modern internal combustion engine. Pressurizing the crankcase is, of course, not desirable. It can lead to blown out crank seals, oil leaks, etc. So the crankcase gasses have to be vented through the PCV system, which recycles the air back into the intake stream. The vented gasses contain oil vapor, water vapor and other nasty stuff that, if not dealt with, can coat the intake tract of the engine with oil and sludge.

 

If PCV gasses are routed to a non-sealed reservoir in the engine bay (like a soda can), then a film of oil will form in the area around the soda can, and there is nothing preventing back flow of oil/water/sludge/dirty air back into the engine. Furthermore, an open container of oil in the engine bay is a fire hazard.

 

When the intake manifold pressure is close to or greater than atmospheric pressure, the PCV "check" valve closes and, thus, this hose experiences no flow. Conversely, the PCV hose will experience "metered" vacuum when the engine is idling, steady state cruising, and decelerating. This would normally draw unwanted crankcase vapor, unspent fuel, and oil sludge into the intake manifold immediately after a high load run.

 

Open PCV System Disadvantages: Without an intake return for the PCV system, the crankcase will not measure any amount of negative pressure that can be, arguably, beneficial for the piston rings. Over time, a light mist of oil vapor will accumulate around the engine bay near the crankcase breather. An open PCV system is not smog legal and will not pass a visual emissions check.

 

 

Open PCV System Advantages: Completely eliminates any chance of oil vapor returning into the intake air stream and collecting in idle air control valves, inter coolers, etc. Required for specific applications. For example, a race car using a turbocharger system without a compressor inlet pipe.

Thanx for the useful info, sounds like it's more important than most people think especially on a daily driver. Is it possible to run a piece of hose from the check valve to the aftermarket inlet, so that it's hooked up like the oem?

Anything is possible. But I have not tried.

On the topic of cutting the pressure sensor out, has anyone tried just wiring in a gm map sensor in place of the OEM sensor?

Have fun with that. You get to spend more money on a sensor ($40-$50). You get to find a place to mount a bigger more obtrusive sensor. You get to solder the wiring connections. Then you get to attempt to scale the sensor (not even sure there is a map table to do that). Oh, and my persoanl experience with GM 3BAR MAP sensors is, they are not linear.

Well I got the air pump delete finished this weekend, what a job.. Mine had both solenoids on the driver side and also still had a cat in the uppipe. Just have to fix the atmospheric sensor now, will cutting to much off mess it up or am I only needing the plastic square? Also how do I erase codes with my ap? Or do I need to pay someone to do it?

If you have an 05 LGT ECM the atmospheric sensor is in the ECM.

 

You only need the plastic portion. Usually we cut off the round top and drill holes through the plastic to make a mount. You will need to use AccessTuner Race to remove the codes form your AP tune.

It worked! Thanx again m sprank. And it's an 07 wrx was just using this as a reference, I still have the lgt running strong tho. I saw a few codes on your list that didn't show up on the accesstuner, and a few that showed up that wernt on your list such as p2442, p2443 I'm guessing are also related to the air pump? I just deleted the ones that were on the list for now, we'll see if any come back, I only had 4 or 5 codes before erasing them.

Different models have a few different codes. I usually miss 1 or 2 when I hand over the paperwork on cars to Bill (the tuner). It happens. Glad it is working out for you.

If I remove my airpump on my Spec.B, do I have to worry about the cold winter months up here in NH? I have the CNT DP installed so I assume the exhaust gasses will warm that high flow cat up quickly, but I just wanted to double check it.

The air pump system is for emission purposes only. Removing it does not effect the cars operation otherwise.

Here in PA we have emissions test where they hook it up to the computer and run it. Will this still pass that test for inspection/emissions. The reason I ask is because you are deleting all those codes.

Here in PA we have emissions test where they hook it up to the computer and run it. Will this still pass that test for inspection/emissions. The reason I ask is because you are deleting all those codes.

Depends on what year your car is, I forget what year and below they do but they don't hook up mine

Depends on how the tests are performed and what data they are looking for. In California, the newest test procedures will "see" the deleted codes and the "tune". But I do not know of any other state with that technology yet.

Depends on how the tests are performed and what data they are looking for. In California, the newest test procedures will "see" the deleted codes and the "tune". But I do not know of any other state with that technology yet.

 

So what are you doing to get around the smog shop "seeing" the deleted codes and tune? I'll have to smog for the first time when i pay my registration next year.

I am doing nothing. That would be illegal.

For the Legacy GTs, it seems the B25 heads (05-06) did not "benefit" from this intrusive "fresh-air" system, while the D25 heads (07+) did.

 

Replaced the timing belt on an 06 FXT (w/D25 heads) yesterday that the owner has replaced the air pump not once, but twice, and the driver's side solenoid three times. He attributed the failures to the high humidity here in SoCar and the attendant rust that that creates, since it's never been exposed to winter salt corrosion. His repair costs - over $1200 for OEM parts from the dealer.

 

His "fix", involves pulling apart the the air pump-to-connector-pipe at the flex-connector and spraying everything down with WD40 while the fan is cycling. Said it's not failed since that time.

I'm not now sure you actually need the sensor. I've removed the whole gubbins from my GH8, disabled all the codes associated with the system that are defined, and I get no CEL or codes.

Dale,

The solenoids are known to freeze/seize and do require lubrication (which the dealership does not do). If they are not "fried" you can free them and lube them. Continue to do so and they should last a very long time.

 

 

fahr_side,

Check your atmospheric pressure. The car will run without the sensor, but it will eventually have issues. Especially during elevation changes. You wont get a CEL. But your car will run like cah cah.

 

In earlier year cars the atmospheric pressure sensor was in the ecm. It was moved to the solenoid with the introduction of the secondary air injection system.