Whiteline adj. swaybar setup question

I just got a set of Whiteline adj. F/R sway bars. They did not come with any instuctions. How should I set the bars? Should I go stiffest? Which hole is the stiffest? If I set it at the softest will it roll just like stock? What are the settings of the holes F/R (The range ??mm) ? I have a wagon and will stick with the stock endlinks and will not lower my car. Thanks for any help.

p.s I did search for info.

Stiffest is the hole closest to the swaybar itself. AKA, the one on the edge of the bar is the softest.

If the Whitelines have 3 holes, I suggest you start in the middle. If they have 2 holes start in the far one if you want to start slow and work your way up. Or vice versa if you want to go hardcore and work your way down.

Stiffest is the hole closest to the swaybar itself. AKA, the one on the edge of the bar is the softest.

 

If the Whitelines have 3 holes, I suggest you start in the middle. If they have 2 holes start in the far one if you want to start slow and work your way up. Or vice versa if you want to go hardcore and work your way down.

+1. Except if you are being conservative, you can start the FSB on the stiffer setting, and the rear on the softest setting. That setup will have the most inherent understeer/least oversteer. You can always stiffen up the rear to dial out understeer and get the balance you want. If you go overboard in adding rear roll stiffness off the bat and get some unexpected oversteer and you can't catch it... well... that would be bad

Well, here are the Whiteline swaybar instructions you are missing:

http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/instructs/Z320_WLswaybar_general.pdf

I also have the front and rear swaybars from whiteline. The front swaybar still pops on me, but I haven't installed the fix that whiteline has sent.

The way that whiteline explained it to me explaining the setting: Think of the swaybar as a wheelbarrel. The further you pick up the arms the easier it is to lift (softer setting), and the closer the harder (firmer settings) to lift.

There are two setting for the front and rear. Don't mix the setting; it puts too much stress on the endlinks.

I also have the front and rear swaybars from whiteline. The front swaybar still pops on me, but I haven't installed the fix that whiteline has sent.

The way that whiteline explained it to me explaining the setting: Think of the swaybar as a wheelbarrel. The further you pick up the arms the easier it is to lift (softer setting), and the closer the harder (firmer settings) to lift.

There are two setting for the front and rear. Don't mix the setting; it puts too much stress on the endlinks.

What fix is that? My front bar has a nasty knock when I accelerate from a stop while turning. It's really starting to freak me out. The front also started sqeeking but that is because of a lack of grease. Back to the knock, it seems to be only on the drivers front and is very loud and very noticible when turning, even my GF asked what that loud noise was!! My brother who is a mechanic, but hasn't actually seen the car, suggested that the differential may be shot? Any thoughts out there? I'm planning on taking the car in on Monday morning because the noise is really starting to make me feel like I am damaging the car. BTW, the car is also lowered with Htechs and has the stock endlinks.

Rick

What fix is that? My front bar has a nasty knock when I accelerate from a stop while turning. It's really starting to freak me out. The front also started sqeeking but that is because of a lack of grease. Back to the knock, it seems to be only on the drivers front and is very loud and very noticible when turning, even my GF asked what that loud noise was!! My brother who is a mechanic, but hasn't actually seen the car, suggested that the differential may be shot? Any thoughts out there? I'm planning on taking the car in on Monday morning because the noise is really starting to make me feel like I am damaging the car. BTW, the car is also lowered with Htechs and has the stock endlinks.

Rick

Here you go: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20797&highlight=whiteline

The part is not expensive.

My noise too. I have had problems ever since installation. I have not installed the part they sent my yet.

Other question: How is it that some people say they have 3 holes in their bar and I have 2 holes. Is whiteline giving two bars out to us LGT owners?

My noise too. I have had problems ever since installation. I have not installed the part they sent my yet.

 

Other question: How is it that some people say they have 3 holes in their bar and I have 2 holes. Is whiteline giving two bars out to us LGT owners?

I, too, have two holes on my rear asb....one on top of the other. I wonder if we have the older model or the newer one?

Dunno on the three holes vs. two holes, but Whiteline pretty much makes the bars by hand, so maybe it just depends on the mood they are in??

I am with the person that said go for soft rear/hard front, you really don't want any snap oversteer right out of the box, just work your way into the handling. I was going through suspension settings for the track the other day, and it was a rough practice session, even spinning in the middle of (track) traffic once due to overambitious rear settings. Of course, sleeting rain wasn't exactly helping things, but that's the point - you want to set your suspension for a measure of safety in the wet, not the dry. It may feel like it has great turn-in in the dry and enough control, but get one of those first rains after a week of dry weather where all the grease on the roads comes up, and you'll appreciate even a touch of understeer.

Cheers,

Paul Hansen

http://www.avoturboworld.com | http://www.sevenphotos.com | http://www.scoobymag.com

Well, I got both bars in. It took about a hour and a half to get them both on ( thank god for air tools:) ). I set it at soft front and rear. It's alot better. I think I will set the front to hard and see how I like it after I put in my STS shifter.

Did you get your set with the "Lateral Lock Kit" included? I got mine from Rallitek but did not come with the kit.

If you search this forum there were some issues regarding the lateral movement of the bars.

Has anyone actually broken either of the 2 brackets that hold sway bar/bushing to the chassis? Perrin ( who does have 2 and 3 hole versions of rear sways) sends an additional peice they claim adds strength to this attachment. Do I really need to install this?

RJO

Dont forget the combinations that you can do to amplify the desired affect..

Example:

Say you have both bars maxed out to full stiff, but you want more oversteer in the process. "So how can I get that??" Simple, soften the front up or go back to the stock front bar.. or if you are really in a dying need to drift, dont run any front sway bar.

This also applies to increasing understeer by soften the rear.. but remember, a mod like this is really based on your driver-skills and even preference.

I did'nt get a lateral lock kit with my either. I know I just put it in but, so far no movement. How long before you guys think I will need it? Can I just e-mail whiteling and have them send it to me? What do I have to do to get the locks?

Some guys don't have any issues with the lateral movement. You may never get it, but I am playing it safe. You can e-mail where you ordered the set from or you can order the kits yourself from: http://www.globalperformanceparts.com/

For 20mm bars the part no. is (W0450-20) and for 22mm bars (W0450-22).

Has anyone actually broken either of the 2 brackets that hold sway bar/bushing to the chassis? Perrin ( who does have 2 and 3 hole versions of rear sways) sends an additional peice they claim adds strength to this attachment. Do I really need to install this?

 

RJO