Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 14, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 14, 2011 Alright LGT community, on Monday I will be putting in my rather large order for my shortblock replacement. All parts will be new and either OEM or aftermarket. My intention is to replace a majority of the oil system. Should I go all in (whatever that may be) or is a flush and these parts enough? Once again just looking for anyone's opinion that's had experience with this. Here's a link that explains the original problem. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stay-walk-away-advice-opinions-wanted-154746.html EJ255 OEM shortblockEJ255 Gasket & Seal setEJ25 11mm STi Oil PumpOEM Oil CoolerOEM Oil PanKiller B Oil PickupKiller B Windage trayGates Racing Timing Kit w/ water pumpOEM Drive beltsOEM NGK Iridium Spark plugs There will obviously be some odds and ends but I just want to get the majority of what I need ASAP so I can move this project along quickly. I'll also be doing the 105k or whatever service (Differential and 5EAT fluid change). Let me know what you think! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 14, 2011 Share Posted February 14, 2011 I'd get after market drive belts. Just as good if not better and cheaper. Why do you need a oil pan and oil cooler ? Did I miss something, I haven't looked at your link yet. Do you need one range colder plugs ? If your staying stock the correct heat range will be fine, if your adding power you should go one step colder. Have to run, time to go to work. Oh yea, I used after market idler pulleys when I replace the timing belt. Hint, remember to leave the belt under the pulley by #2 cylinder until after the belt is threaded over the tensioner. Then, before you pull the pin lift the belt over the lower pulley. In my timing belt thread I talk about it. I think that's the process. Did you get today's email from FredBeans about the timing belt kit for $275 ? Pretty good deal. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 14, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 14, 2011 I'm getting the OEM parts through an inside hook-up so they will be cheap enough. The oil pan and cooler are just to ensure that the oil system is clean. I'm just not sure how effective a flush will be. The plugs will be direct OEM replacement My whole timing assembly will be aftermarket (Gates) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 15, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 15, 2011 Anyone else? Bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTurabus Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 Lightweight brand new aluminum drive pulley(autospeed), for little more than half of what they present day ones go for. PM me, the massive super sale thread is still being edited. Should be ready in a few days, took 87 pictures over the weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 15, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 15, 2011 Meh, I'm not planning on replacing those. Thanks for the shameless plug though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fightinchunk Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 u gonna replace the oil feedline going into the turbo? fp oil line or p&l oil line Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 15, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 15, 2011 Nope, I had a new one installed about 30000 miles ago during my turbo fiasco. That'll just be flushed with the rest of the oil system Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madcatz Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 You think youll get those exhaust hangers in time to finish the build? -Travis Rob (rao) you're a fine gentleman, thanks I guess. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AShoe Posted February 15, 2011 Share Posted February 15, 2011 What are you planning for the heads? If everything is going to be out at least a valve job would probably be a good idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 15, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 15, 2011 You think youll get those exhaust hangers in time to finish the build? It doesn't really matter when I get them. I would just like it to be given the chance. What are you planning for the heads? If everything is going to be out at least a valve job would probably be a good idea. The heads will be taken to a local machine shop for a good once over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AShoe Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 It sounds like you have a good plan. Everything is probably still in good shape, but there is no easier time to replace heater hoses, starter... I recently rebuilt the motor in my 93 land cruiser. I replaced everything rubber under the hood at the same time, with the legacy I would probably just check everything and replace whatever looks worn/cracked. Don't forget the critical oiling pre startup. I pull the plugs and crank the starter for 30 seconds at least 6 times with an oil pressure guage hooked up. Just be glad your engine doesn't weigh 500+lbs! Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 16, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 16, 2011 Yeah, all visibly worn parts will be replaced as the job moves along. Thanks for the tips and the well wishes! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 +1 on the oil cooler - this probably has all kinds of crap that induced your previous failures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 16, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 16, 2011 I'm still on the fence about that. My Subaru Tech friend told me that wasn't really necessary. It's a couple hundred bucks. I'd love to throw it in for the insurance but on the other hand if it can be flushed (like the other parts of the oil system) I'm ok with that. This is my head Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
compsurge Posted February 16, 2011 Share Posted February 16, 2011 Just for my education, how are they flushed? Pressurized oil cleaning? Draining oil through them? Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 21, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 21, 2011 I have no idea how an oil system is flushed. I would think that it would have to be part by part with a physical pump. Because there's no sense flushing the system with the broken block on it. But on the same token I don't think it would be prudent to flush the system with all new parts on it. In other news, all above parts have arrived and will be dropped off at the mechanic tomorrow! My Subie will have life once again!!!!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ouch1011 Posted February 22, 2011 Share Posted February 22, 2011 Every single warranty engine or transmission I've ever replaced requires that the oil cooler gets either flushed for an oil to water cooler (most trans coolers and stock eng oil coolers) or replaced (most HD or aftermarket coolers) For my money, I'd replace the oil cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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