LittleBlueGT Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 09 WRX (which has a VF52 from factory), mods: -COBB stage run had CBE, Invidia DP w/ HFC -0% WGDC run has the above mods + AEM CAI IAT where 70F for both runs. COBB tune I logged (but did not log WGDC) was with OEM intake, then we put on an AEM CAI (only physical mod difference between runs). What the heck? Anyone think the Invidia DP's divider is blocking the WG door? If so, then why did the COBB run boost so much lower? (COBB tune was still overboosting a bit) http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg194/littlebluegt/COBBstage2vsAEM0WGDC.jpg Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Same gear for both pulls? Level ground in both cases, or on the same hill? I have no theories, only questions. It doesn't make sense to me either. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted September 12, 2009 Author Share Posted September 12, 2009 Same gear for both pulls? Level ground in both cases, or on the same hill? I have no theories, only questions. It doesn't make sense to me either. There are no hills where I live. Both in 3rd gear. You should see it spike after a WOT shift! Exact same road, same everything. Like I said, the only difference is the intake. How can an intake change things that much. Two things we have to do: Check to see that WG door opens freely and does not hit divider in DP. If that doesn't work then we can put the OEM intake back on and log a 0% WGDC run. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1969 Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I've seen over on Nasioc that the invidia divider was hanging up on a vf52. They had to grind the divider. I have a crucial racing divorced dp with no divider and also am getting execessive boost. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1969 Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 http://www.i-club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=196968 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testes1010 Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I have a crucial racing divorced dp with no divider and also am getting execessive boost. I have Crucial(no divider) as well with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jim1969 Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I have Crucial(no divider) as well with no issues. What boost solenoid and pill are you using? I'm using the prodrive solenoid and no pills. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testes1010 Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 Hallman PRO MBC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infamous1 Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 From my experience it seems every 1 out of 3 Invidia dp's divider is built incorrectly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted September 14, 2009 Author Share Posted September 14, 2009 From my experience it seems every 1 out of 3 Invidia dp's divider is built incorrectly. And you are correct. I have seen pics of the divider Invidia has, and ours is too big. I have also seen pics of the divider INvida makes for the VF52, it is much smaller. I guess we get to grind. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubyShop.com Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 what part number is the exact invidia downpipe he got? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 5, 2009 Author Share Posted October 5, 2009 I don't know the part number. The Invidia divider may have been touching the WG a bit, but after grinding down a very small portion of the divider we confirmed there was no contact what-so-ever. We also switched to a single pill boost control (w/ OEM EBCS) system. This helped with the overboost, but the VF52 still creeps, we are 2 psi over target in the 61F IAT range. I cringe when we will be at -30F. The other problem is that our gas is soo bad that with the OEM TMIC we have pulled a ton of timing but still get knock. It just gets too hot. A Perrin TMIC will be going on soon, so hopefully we can solve that. Our whp plots show the same in the heat where we don't overboost and can run decent timing, in the cooler weather we overboost and have to pull a ton of timing. It seems to be a losing battle. Any ideas how to combat this boost creep? Only things I can think of are: 1) EWG 2) take off turbine housing and port it (not sure how hard this is to do, and what the likelihood is of breaking something) 3)restricting exhaust by putting on stock CBE 4)restrict intake by putting OEM intake back on 5)run WI and successfully deal with heat Any other ideas? Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testes1010 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 1) EWG 5)run WI and successfully deal with heat ^ I vote .... Any other ideas? Try a Hallman Pro MBC: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2601987&postcount=223 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnAWD Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 ^^ I've been using Hallman MBCs since the mid 90s on all of my cars. Simple, effective, accurate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 ^ I vote .... Try a Hallman Pro MBC: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2601987&postcount=223 Boost controller ain't gonna help. 0% WGDC results in overboost. The problem is this guy just wants a simple set-up, but right now I am not confident letting him rev over 5000 rpms. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Have you tried connecting the compressor nipple directly to the actuator just to rule out everything else in the boost control setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTTuner Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 From my experience it seems every 1 out of 3 Invidia dp's divider is built incorrectly. I must have gotten lucky with mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testes1010 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Boost controller ain't gonna help. 0% WGDC results in overboost. 0% does not mean the wastegate is 'only' running spring pressure..... see below.... Have you tried connecting the compressor nipple directly to the actuator just to rule out everything else in the boost control setup? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 I think LBGT knows that very well... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Yes guys I know. I did not run directly from the comp cover to the WG actuator. Nothing leads me to believe it will matter. At 0% WGDC the boost does this: (not even cold out yet) http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg194/littlebluegt/0WGDC.jpg Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Bad waste actuator? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 Bad waste actuator? I don't think so. Stage1 from COBB worked great. Stage2 wasn't too bad, but it was overboosting a bit. Once we added the intake it seemed to make things even more efficient overboosting was a bit more. I did run varying degrees (10-18 psi) of pressure manually through the WG and it moved a good 12-13mm, which is waaaay more then my actuator on my AVO380 moved (it wouldn't boost creep). My AVO380 actuator wold move about 4 mm with 20 psi going to it. My actuator on my VF40 moves about 12-133 mm with 11 psi going to it, pretty much the same as this VF52. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
testes1010 Posted October 6, 2009 Share Posted October 6, 2009 Yes guys I know. I did not run directly from the comp cover to the WG actuator. I know you, not questioning you're intelligence hopefully it didn't sound like I was, but do you think its worth to try considering it'll take 5 minutes to confirm it hard-hosed from the comp to the wg? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LittleBlueGT Posted October 6, 2009 Author Share Posted October 6, 2009 I know you, not questioning you're intelligence hopefully it didn't sound like I was, but do you think its worth to try considering it'll take 5 minutes to confirm it hard-hosed from the comp to the wg? True. Wish I had the car for a week, then I could easily play around with stuff like that. Full tune of 68HTA, KSTech 73 MAF, Racer X FMIC and ID1000s................by the DataLog Mafia!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwiener2 Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 there is some kind of a mechanical issue somewhere. tuning isn't gonna fix it. My Mods List (Updated 8/22/17) 2005 Outback FMT Running on Electrons Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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