TPS and idle control valve questions

I would like to clean the ICV. The mounting of it looks like it has an adjustable position, is that true? If it is true how do you set it.

 

The TPS. On my Jaguar I knew very well how to test the TPS by back probing with my meter. There is an X to Y voltage that is accessed when moving the throttle plate. How do you test the TPS on a 97 Subbie and how do you set the TPS?

For the ICV just remove the 3 bolts that hold it to the intake there is no adjustment there.

To test the TPS voltage you need to probe 2 wires on the ecu cant remember which 2 though.

the IAC is located on the intake manifold passenger side rear.

no adjustment there, but cleaning may help.

 

the TPS is located on the throttle body.

and yes, there is a voltage check involved in the correct setting of the TPS.

if you remove the outer housing with the wire connector, mark it so you can reinstall it exactly the way it was. or just go through the process of re-setting correctly.

IAC is the wording I was looking for but couldn't remember.

 

It is clear I am on a learning curve with the EJ25 engine. In the picture is what I think is the IAC (putty colored). There are two Phillips head bolts holding it in and the second picture shows that there are mounting flanges that show possible adjustments.

 

On the first picture, why is there a bolt in the manifold?

 

I am not sure if this engine came out of an Outback or a Forrester.

 

the IAC is located on the intake manifold passenger side rear.

no adjustment there, but cleaning may help.

 

the TPS is located on the throttle body.

and yes, there is a voltage check involved in the correct setting of the TPS.

if you remove the outer housing with the wire connector, mark it so you can reinstall it exactly the way it was. or just go through the process of re-setting correctly.

That is the correct part but you dont just remove the plastic part which is the motor remove the housing also which is bolted to the intake with 3 bolts.

Ok, just went out to check out what you say and I get it now. I just had to look a bit deeper and move a few things. Three bolts? I'm guessing two on the sides and one on the bottom.

 

That is the correct part but you dont just remove the plastic part which is the motor remove the housing also which is bolted to the intake with 3 bolts.

Ok, just went out to check out what you say and I get it now. I just had to look a bit deeper and move a few things. Three bolts? I'm guessing two on the sides and one on the bottom.

 

Been awhile but I think it might be 2 bolts on top and 1 on the bottom.

Three bolts?

 

Yes, Three bolts!!!

Here is the part store laugh of the day. I went to look for a gasket for the IAC valve before attempting to remove it. And Advance only carried one that it said would fit my car. It looked absolutely nothing like the shape of a subaru IAC and the description said,"The fit of this product will vary depending on make and model" LOL I'm sorry Advance but the fit of a gasket does not vary..either it fits or it doesn't fit. The fit of my pants varies with my eating..the fit of a gasket is black & white, yes or no.

Not going to defend Advance, but there were two types of IAC.

One sits on top of the TB and uses a rectangular shaped O ring. Your 97 may have this type. It swells in usage and will probably not fit properly once removed.

The other mounted on the side of the IM uses a gasket that is not fully covered by the IAC and this may be what they are referring to.

 

O.

I was able to find the proper IACV gasket at Rock Auto $6 + $6 shipping (for a gasket?) I haven't removed mine to clean it yet but at least have the gasket already. As for the one-size- fits- all philosophy of places like Advance Auto, I've seen that many a time with hoses too, that's why I've had to go back and get OEM hoses from the dealer, as the parts stores try to sell me something that looks nothing like the hoses I need.

Those brass screws like to round. Hit with pb before tackling.

Following another post somewhere, I replaced them with cap head screws, so I would be able to do it again easily if need be. I removed the electronics part, then soaked in gas, then thoroughly wiped all the carbon from everywhere. Have not had to do it again.

 

O.

You don't have to remove the IAC cap to clean it, I never had too. For the TPS the easiest way to check it would be to use a scan tool with viewable data. One with a voltage and percentage read out would be best. The closed voltage should read .70 volts and 0 % closed