Tires

Alright im getting some winter tires for my 99 Legacy GT. I only bought the car a few weeks ago and I am pretty new to subaru. The stock tire is 205/55/16. I was thinking I would get a bit bigger tire for larger contact patch in the snow. Does anyone know if a 205/60/16 would fit okay? It calculates to a half inch increase it tire size. What does everyone think?.. or know? lol. Thanks a bunch for your help

 

Edit: Also I am running the stock snowflake 16s.

Measure the distance inbetween your tires now and the bottom of the strut tower and see how much clearence you have there, and then you will know if they will fit without spacers. I couldn't run 215/60 R16 on my car because they rubbed (I'm not sure about the 205/60R16)

you'd want to run a wider tire, not a larger aspect ratio. the 205/55/16 to 205/60/16 will only make for a taller donut in your wheel well, which will mess with your speedometer and not do what you want with it, which is to have a larger contact patch. IMHO, if you find a good set of all-seasons or a dedicated winter setup, there's no need to mess with the dimensions, especially if you're using the stockers for the summer tire and winter tire. Right now I have cooper cs4 tires at the corners; not the best dry grip, but in the wet and most definitely the snow these things are champs for an all season. I'd definitely recommend them as far as all-seasons go when dry performance isn't high on your priority list.

 

In a nutshell, don't worry about the dimensions so much as the tire and compound. If you find a good 89 or 91H rated tire that's held up to snow standards, jump on it. Check out tirerack too, they've got excellent info over there on winter setups and such.

I have had kuhmo esctas for a while now and they are an awesome all season tire. Dont go wider in the snow, you want to stay stock size.

Definitely agree with kaz. If you want a dedicated summer and winter set up pick up steelies with a good snow tire or just get a solid set of all season and run them all year.

I have had kuhmo esctas for a while now and they are an awesome all season tire. Dont go wider in the snow, you want to stay stock size.

Definitely agree with kaz. If you want a dedicated summer and winter set up pick up steelies with a good snow tire or just get a solid set of all season and run them all year.

 

I went with a little taller for a bit better ground clearance and contact area for the snow. I am cool with running full snow tires on the stock wheels because this is going to be my winter car almost exclusively. I always use tirerack and its awesome. For the tires I was going for these.

 

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Continental&tireModel=ExtremeWinterContact

 

I have plenty of room where the struts are so I was more worried about the fenders.

you'd want to run a wider tire, not a larger aspect ratio. the 205/55/16 to 205/60/16 will only make for a taller donut in your wheel well, which will mess with your speedometer and not do what you want with it, which is to have a larger contact patch.

 

Wider tires have a smaller contact patch. Its a common misconception that they have a larger contact patch because they are wider. Wider tires have better steering response because the contact patch is smaller.

 

The speedometer is unfortunate though. Its supposed to be about 3%. Like I said im looking at the continental tires on tirerack have you ever used those?

Continental tires are very good tires! And I agree, don't go wider. A wide tire will slide around more. Especially when you try to turn.

Why worry about it? Dedicated winter/snow tires and AWD is more than enough for 99% of the people out there. You need more than that then get studded snow tires.

JB3, studded snows actually don't do as well as a dedicated winter tire. Without the studs, you have better traction on dry, wet, and in more times than not snow. The only area the studs trump in are ice traction, and lets face it, unless you're in north canada or drive a zamboni you won't have ice for weeks at a time on the roads.

 

For a snow tire, you actually want the tire to be more slender so that it cuts through the snow. If you were to get a wider tire, it will actually float the car more on the snow, causing a loss of traction sooner. Think about it on a larger scale...I've seen examples of this with the same exact tire, and it's an interesting concept. OP, you should be all set with those extremecontacts in the same tire spec that you have for the summers: 205/55/16. That coupled with the great awd (especially if you have the manual, it's a 50/50 torque split all the time), and you'll be unstoppable, seriously.

I have Hankook Winter i*Pikes W409 that are studded and I'll be using those this winter. It gets pretty icy up where I live in the winter. I'm pretty sure these will just blow me away when it snows because I've never had dedicated snow tires before. Really though only get studs if you are in an area with lots of ice. If not go studless so you can save your ears haha

I have Hankook Winter i*Pikes W409 that are studded and I'll be using those this winter. It gets pretty icy up where I live in the winter. I'm pretty sure these will just blow me away when it snows because I've never had dedicated snow tires before. Really though only get studs if you are in an area with lots of ice. If not go studless so you can save your ears haha

 

Dont forget on pavement studded tires are VERY slippery...

JB3, studded snows actually don't do as well as a dedicated winter tire. Without the studs, you have better traction on dry, wet, and in more times than not snow. The only area the studs trump in are ice traction, and lets face it, unless you're in north canada or drive a zamboni you won't have ice for weeks at a time on the roads.

 

For a snow tire, you actually want the tire to be more slender so that it cuts through the snow. If you were to get a wider tire, it will actually float the car more on the snow, causing a loss of traction sooner. Think about it on a larger scale...I've seen examples of this with the same exact tire, and it's an interesting concept. OP, you should be all set with those extremecontacts in the same tire spec that you have for the summers: 205/55/16. That coupled with the great awd (especially if you have the manual, it's a 50/50 torque split all the time), and you'll be unstoppable, seriously.

 

Yeah I agree. Tall thin tires will do better in snow. Wide tires are better for dry traction. I do have the manual. Thats a good point I have gotten by with a lot less in winter before so this car should be in a whole new league. Im not a big fan of studs. I was going with studless snow tires. Tirerack has the continentals as the highest rated snow tire for this year. I dont know what kind of tire is on there right now. They are bald and I know the brands dont match. Im way excited to finally have a good winter car

JB3, studded snows actually don't do as well as a dedicated winter tire. Without the studs, you have better traction on dry, wet, and in more times than not snow. The only area the studs trump in are ice traction, and lets face it, unless you're in north canada or drive a zamboni you won't have ice for weeks at a time on the roads.

 

 

Yeah, that's what I'm saying. Should have been a bit more clear. I meant a dedicated snow tire or dedicated winter tire. Combine either one of those with AWD and that will be more than enough for 99% of the people on the planet. That other 1% will need the studded tires because they live in a no mans land somewhere really cold.

 

I live in S.W. Ohio and don't even bother with snow/winter tires. A decent set of all seasons & AWD (we have the Subie and an Audi) is all we need. Then again, I live in the city, it doesn't snow much and it's pretty flat.

I just wish this damn snow would get here already!!!!

I just wish this damn snow would get here already!!!!

 

Amen! lol

^^ this. I love doing donuts in the parking lot before hockey practice in the morning

 

no worries jb3, I sorta knew what you were getting at haha. so I'll put together a list of things that are necessary for the right snow tire:

 

- You can either get a dedicated winter setup mounted on it's own rims or have someone like town fair swap them out on your stockers. This is an advantage because they'll do the snow tire change-over for free. But a dedicated winter set-up regardless of separate rims or not is a great idea, especially in the snow belt.

 

- All-seasons are a good cost-alternative, but they lose dry performance compared to a sumemr tire and lack the snow and ice performance that winter tires have. It's all a personal preferance; I went all-season in CT and have been doing just fine, but I wish I had more dry grip and a little more confidence plowing through snow.

 

- Go studless if you live ANYWHERE BUT a rink or far far north. Studs chew up roads, are very loud, and don't perform anywhere near a good winter tire in terms of dry, wet, m+s, and comfort. Ice is only where they outshine the winter tire, and even then it's not by much. The technology engineered into the newer winter tires is quickly catching up to the outdated studded tires, so unless you absolutely need that ice grip, go with a studless.

 

- A tall, thin tire is the best kind of tire for snow traction. If you were to put a wide tire on a car and drive it through a parking lot, you will literally float on top of the snow and get zero traction. That's why most (if not all) snow tires have a thin width, so that they can cut through snow. Being tall (usually >55 or >60 is a good aspect ratio) is also helpful; that's why many of us get 14" steelies and run (I think) a 65 or even 70 so they can get that tall ratio and still keep their speedometer calculating speed properly.

 

- Our awd system for the 4EAT reacts to wheel slippage; usually it's 90-10 F-R, but when one of the wheels slips, it distributes torque effectively to try and regain traction. That happens only when necessary, and usually slowly (there's a mod to make a "dummy" switch to have 50-50 at all times for us 4EAT guys). 5 speeds have it better off, and have a 50-50 split at all times. Just remember, we've already got an advantage over the competition because of our awd, and it does an excellent job cutting through snow. Think of it as part of your winter package, and don't go ridiculously crazy buying an extreme set of winter tires and live in the south end of the snow states. Save your money for a rear sway or something

 

 

Hope this get's the job done. I'll add anything more if need be.

^^ this. I love doing donuts in the parking lot before hockey practice in the morning

 

no worries jb3, I sorta knew what you were getting at haha. so I'll put together a list of things that are necessary for the right snow tire:

 

- You can either get a dedicated winter setup mounted on it's own rims or have someone like town fair swap them out on your stockers. This is an advantage because they'll do the snow tire change-over for free. But a dedicated winter set-up regardless of separate rims or not is a great idea, especially in the snow belt.

 

- All-seasons are a good cost-alternative, but they lose dry performance compared to a sumemr tire and lack the snow and ice performance that winter tires have. It's all a personal preferance; I went all-season in CT and have been doing just fine, but I wish I had more dry grip and a little more confidence plowing through snow.

 

- Go studless if you live ANYWHERE BUT a rink or far far north. Studs chew up roads, are very loud, and don't perform anywhere near a good winter tire in terms of dry, wet, m+s, and comfort. Ice is only where they outshine the winter tire, and even then it's not by much. The technology engineered into the newer winter tires is quickly catching up to the outdated studded tires, so unless you absolutely need that ice grip, go with a studless.

 

- A tall, thin tire is the best kind of tire for snow traction. If you were to put a wide tire on a car and drive it through a parking lot, you will literally float on top of the snow and get zero traction. That's why most (if not all) snow tires have a thin width, so that they can cut through snow. Being tall (usually >55 or >60 is a good aspect ratio) is also helpful; that's why many of us get 14" steelies and run (I think) a 65 or even 70 so they can get that tall ratio and still keep their speedometer calculating speed properly.

 

- Our awd system for the 4EAT reacts to wheel slippage; usually it's 90-10 F-R, but when one of the wheels slips, it distributes torque effectively to try and regain traction. That happens only when necessary, and usually slowly (there's a mod to make a "dummy" switch to have 50-50 at all times for us 4EAT guys). 5 speeds have it better off, and have a 50-50 split at all times. Just remember, we've already got an advantage over the competition because of our awd, and it does an excellent job cutting through snow. Think of it as part of your winter package, and don't go ridiculously crazy buying an extreme set of winter tires and live in the south end of the snow states. Save your money for a rear sway or something

 

 

Hope this get's the job done. I'll add anything more if need be.

 

I think the 4EAT doesn't get the credit it deserves. I was out driving in the snow and got stuck...The rear end kicks in rather quickly for me. But my transmission seems to be in better shape then most peoples on here.

 

The AWD system works perfect for me. I got in 6-7 inches of snow and got out...Hence the picture I posted on the "what did you do to your subaru today" thread.

Really thats interesting I didnt know, for one, that there was a difference between the auto and the manual. Or that the manual has 50/50 distribution. Thats way cool Well it sounds like I am going with the extremecontacts. Ill follow up on how they work out. Like I said subaru is new too me so I am still learning. Having new wheels for the tires would be nice but with all my cars if one more of them has a set of wheel sand tires floating around my garage I might as well own a tire shop because thats what it will look like lol. Not to mention I really like the stock wheels. They have many qualitys that I like in aftermarket wheels. This will be the first car and only car that I currently own that doesn't have aftermarket wheels. Its also the first "practical" car that I have owned... almost ever lol.

for you^

Auto vs Manual.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nice thanks a bunch that is good info. I have always been partial to manual cars but autos do have there advatages. Like I said I will be sure to update with how it all turns out. Im also going to get it all cleaned up and post a pic. Cant wait

for you^

Auto vs Manual.

 

 

Power: Basic knowledge of transmissions makes it clear that an automatic is not the most efficient way to deliver power to the driveline. In fact, modern transmissions are much better at this, but using hydraulics to transfer power is just...inefficient. Advantage: 5MT

 

 

 

 

Driveability: There's stop 'n go urban traffic, rural plodding and freeway cruising to consider here, but one must admit that one-footed driving, while boring, does have its advantages. Even left-foot brakers hardly have difficutly in traffic jams. Advantage: 4EAT

 

 

 

 

AWD: The main principle behind every Subaru built for the past 5 years, and heavily emphasized for the past 30, this is what people usually buy Subarus for. 4EAT is 90/10 most of the time, 50/50 in 1st and 2nd. The 4EAT uses electronics and sensors to keep an eye on the AWD system and make it work.. 5MT is 50/50 in all gears, and leaves the hard work up to viscous power transfer. I prefer simplicity, and consistency, and the possibility of 3 LSDs. Advantage: 5MT

 

 

 

 

Weight: The 4EAT uses ATF, and a LOT of it. It has not only an external filter, but a front-mounted cooler as well. It's also larger than the 5MT and so it must weight more. I know, it's a 3300lb car, but anything is helpful. Advantage: 5MT.

 

 

 

 

Longevity: This one is hard. I'm putting in a used transmission, sure, but these units go a LOT of miles when treated right, even with a lot of horsepower. There are Legacy Turbos with well over 250hp running stock gears still, after 10 years. Well prepped automatics will go for a long time, especially when cooled properly and made to shift harder and not slop as much. this is a toss up. Advantage: Tie

 

 

 

 

Big HP: This one isn't easy. Automatics can generally hold up much better to high horsepower when prepped right. Level 10 can make autos that'll withstand 900HP Supra drag cars. Sure there are "dog-gear" gearsets available, but it's expensive, hard to shift, and it's usually the transmission case flex that leads to the demise of Subaru gears. Advantage: 4EAT

 

 

Great stuff, you're the man As a side note, I'd put the 5mt as an advantage for the longivety for us 2nd gen guys because of the sticky valves that make shifting hard. From first to second it's a hard jolt, and 2nd to 3rd is a long, drawn out shift. I'm sure mine will be getting worse; trans-x did an ok job, but it's not a cure-all, especially in this case. It seems that it's a common thing for 4eat 2nd gen legacys, and I'm sure it's not good for either the transmission or the driveline. If the car was kept stock, and it was an auto vs manual for the same year, I'd say the 5mt would edge out a win.

JB3, studded snows actually don't do as well as a dedicated winter tire. Without the studs, you have better traction on dry, wet, and in more times than not snow. The only area the studs trump in are ice traction, and lets face it, unless you're in north canada or drive a zamboni you won't have ice for weeks at a time on the roads.

 

For a snow tire, you actually want the tire to be more slender so that it cuts through the snow. If you were to get a wider tire, it will actually float the car more on the snow, causing a loss of traction sooner. Think about it on a larger scale...I've seen examples of this with the same exact tire, and it's an interesting concept. OP, you should be all set with those extremecontacts in the same tire spec that you have for the summers: 205/55/16. That coupled with the great awd (especially if you have the manual, it's a 50/50 torque split all the time), and you'll be unstoppable, seriously.

 

I meant to ask this before but if that's the case with snow tires why don't we have snow tires as skinny as a donut tire?

I'm guessing they don't do that because there has to be a balance between contact patch and tire height. If you have a tire with a 2" wide contact patch, you're going to cut through the snow but once you hit the pavement, it's a very small contact patch that will make the ride uncomfortable/dangerous. Plus it's not too practical for dry/wet performance.

I meant to ask this before but if that's the case with snow tires why don't we have snow tires as skinny as a donut tire?

 

If you were driving on snow 100% of the time an even thinner tire wouldn't be a bad idea. But like kaz said having a tire this thin would provide extremely one sided performance. When you turn the wheel a tall thin tire will deform more under the weight transfer of a turn causing poor "mushy" slow response handling.

 

But its not really the with its the contact patch as a result of the aspect ratio of the tire. For example there may be a truck equipped with a snow tire that is 245mm wide but it would be very tall to balance it out. Wide Earlier I may have phrased it backwards. Wide tires do not provide poor snow performance, its short tires that provide poor snow performance.

 

It all has to do with the size/weight of the car compared to the tire size. When you put weight on the tires the contact patch will change shape and size. Wider tires will have the same size contact patch if you keep the aspect ratio and the psi the same. However the actual shape of the contact patch will change. The thin and tall tire will expand in a front and rear vertial direction. To put an image in your head think of the tracks on a tank. This is the shape tall thin tires will take under weight. The wide tire has more room to distribute weight in the "width of the tire". Do you see where I am going with this?

 

Hopefully I was not too confusing I was tired when typing this lol.

 

(I agree with what kaz said im just elaborating)

Also wide short tires have a thin small contact patch. This is good for pavement because it provides very quick handling response. The wider you get the easier the tires are to turn and the more sideways grip you have... I know it sounds crazy but its true.