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Timing Belt Replacement?


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So I have been looking around and had a couple questions for people who have had their belt changed.

 

First I will start off saying, while I am very mechanically inclined I will not be doing the labor on this myself, as I have never changed a timing belt and don't want to inherite the risks associated with doing it wrong. (I would love to watch the mechanic though, I like to see how things are put together)

 

My main question is whether or not it is advisable to use the Gates Racing Timing Belt Kit that Fred Beans Parts is selling? I will say I buy the majority of my parts from them which is why I'm inclined to do so. The reason this kit is so appealing is for $389 I can get the T-Belt, all pulleys/ idlers, tensioner and water pump with gaskets. I contacted Superrupair a local Boulder,Co subie shop, and they quoted me $1,230 for parts and labor, they wanted over 600 for all the parts (of course everything was at retail). So I was thinking of purchasing the parts and having either Superrupair do the labor or this shop that I trust a lot that is right next door to me (its called Marks Auto).

 

Finally I contacted the dealership I bought my car from (Flatirons Imports Boulder, Co) they quoted me ~$800 for parts and labor, but the sales reprsentative stated that they only replace what needs to be and this price was average of what she saw leaving the shop. While I understand this practice (don't replace what doesn't need to be), I would have better peace of mind knowing there are all new parts in there. I have been running my car @ stage 2 for ~7,000 miles and plan to upgrade to VF-52, bigger injectors and E-85.

 

So my big question, in my situation would you:

 

A- Buy the parts from fred beans and have one of the local shops I have around me do the labor.

 

B- Take it to the dealer and have them replace what needs to be with Subaru Parts and call it a day.

 

C- Take it to the dealer and have them replace all pulleys/idlers, tensioner, water pump, and gaskets with subaru parts. (Most likely expensive)

 

Any input you guys have would be great or if along the way, I passed up a great thread with this information already in it could you direct me in that way.

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A I would ask the local shop if it's ok to bring your own parts? If so I pick A.

 

B I don't like going to the stealership.

 

C I bought my parts from Advance Auto Parts and did the work myself.

 

I have never replaced a timing belt on a Subaru before or any engine in the car.

 

It was easier then I thought.

 

There are post on here, one of mine, that has it laid out pretty well.

 

It still cost me about $500 for all the parts and fluids.

 

BTW I pay someone to replace the spark plugs on my 05GT.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I would go the A route. I hate the dealership and their mechanics are usually horrible, if you have a local shop that does a lot of Subaru work and you are happy with their service I would go there. That package from beans looks real good, I'll go the same route 25k-30k miles from now. Goodluck.
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I have read the walkthrough post and I would say it definetly doesn't look bad at all. I will do a little more research on it and see if I feel willing to take on the task. I am just getting to a point in life where I feel like spending the extra money to have someone who knows what they're doing do it and go grab a beer instead!

 

Max: Did you replace all the pulleys and h20 pump also or just the belt. Also what did you use to hold the cam pulley's in place or did you just put a mark where they were at and then re-align.

 

I did ask both the local shops, suparrupair is fine with it but obviously won't warranty the work because they didn't purchase the parts. The shop next door is totally down I had them do my clutch, WRX flywheel and TSK3, but they tend to be a little pricey, but I trust them and I can watch my car through my window like the creaper I am ;).

 

Appreciate the input. Thanks

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I'm about to do mine and will buy the parts from FB. A few years ago i would have tackled the job myself but now I prefer to outsource the bigger jobs mostly from a time/aggravation standpoint. Good question on the waterpump. Some say do it, some say don't bother. I'm going to replace mine as i intend to keep the Leggy for another 100 K at least.
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BTW I pay someone to replace the spark plugs on my 05GT.

 

Really? Come on... It's not that hard. Hell I have that extra smog pump and I still did it in about 1 hr.

 

:)

 

I can also pull a motor in about 50 min from

<< that car. Or drop the trans. I don't even have a lift either.

 

I hope to be purchasing my parts from FB soon... But I have a lot of spending coming up lately and if I have to I'll wait till I hit the 105k mark, only at 96k now.

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Really? Come on... It's not that hard. Hell I have that extra smog pump and I still did it in about 1 hr.

 

:)

 

I can also pull a motor in about 50 min from

<< that car. Or drop the trans. I don't even have a lift either.

 

I hope to be purchasing my parts from FB soon... But I have a lot of spending coming up lately and if I have to I'll wait till I hit the 105k mark, only at 96k now.

 

I know funny isn't it.

 

 

lofthouse, yes I replaced all the parts that's why the parts alone were over $400.

 

I think I did something with C clamps. I have the photo's in my thread I think. I'm home right now so I can't get the photo's.

 

B-BGT I may look you up if I need to pull my tranny or engine someday.

 

May be...do you want help with your timing belt ?

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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lol, I've done a timing belt on a Impreza, granted its a SOHC vs my DOHC, but I can't imagine it will be much harder. I'll find a way to hold the cams in place.

 

And I guess my arrows were too low... LOL I was referring to the car in the avatar. FWD is a bit easier, at least I think so... I haven't taken anything apart on my Leggy quite yet since it's been just fine, but I do foresee a clutch in its future too since for all I know its original, and after watching the clutch replacement video on youtube, I am not worried at all... Looks easier than changing my torque converter, and I've done that a few times. :)

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Oh now I understand. Yes, there was a time back in 06 when I could pull the tranny in no time, it felt like the thing had zippers it became so easy on the race car.

 

I'll try and link the pictures here tonight when I'm home. Was at the GF's last night.

 

I think I used a Ford wrench held in place by the C clamp. I think the wrench fit into the cam gear somehow.

 

Still if you want help with the clutch I'd be happy to come down for the day and help and learn.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I'll keep that in mind. I Think I'm going to be milking it as long as I can though, I'm hitting Chicago on the 24-27 for a Beretta meet, and then getting married on 8-7 and going cross country till Sept... so once all that dies down and I have a few extra bux then I'll probably dig in on it. :)
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Wow busy next few month's for you. Congrat's on the wedding.

 

Let me know if you want help with the timing belt.

 

Here the C clamp and Ford wrench,

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture074.jpg

 

Here's how you break the torque on the crankshaft bolt. then crank the starter over.

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture062.jpg

 

I put a board over it just in case...

 

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture063.jpg

Just figured out my end tank is leaking where the Aluminum core clamps around the plastic right above the turbo outlet. But that will be another thread. No need to Hi Jack this one any more.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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Oh yea the hint for putting the belt on the final pulley.... is route it under the bottom pulley on the passenger side, then install the tensioner. then lift the belt over the front and onto the top of that lower pulley. when the belt looks right and the timing marks all line up, then pull the pin on the new tensioner.

 

That lesson took me about 3 hours to figure out.

 

If you look closely you can see the pin is still in the tensioner

http://i185.photobucket.com/albums/x40/92Si/Picture075.jpg

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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The only real PITA is setting up the driver side cams.

 

Touche, its the same on the Impreza SOHC... You need 4 hands to get it done, One person hold the cam in place with a wrench while the other one lines up the belt and tensioner... Thank god there is only one cam though.

 

Obviously that could be done the same way as above if your 1 man down.

 

I'm not looking forward to doing this, but since I've done it twice I'm not worried about it. (Did it twice because first time on the Impreza the father in-law thought the tensioner was ok... Needless to say when we checked the belt one month later it was loose and had rubbed the crank guard right above the belt and left a nice groove in it. We learned then that the belt and tensioner should be replaced together ;) ) That was my first time doing a big maintenance job on a Subaru and before I started on these boards. You learn from your mistakes

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Another hint, be careful with the small screws that hold the belt guide on over the cams. I have one of those bolts down in the heat shield for the header.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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The timing belt job is so much easier with the engine out... it's a great opportunity to detail everything too. :):lol:

 

KentMoore/SPX cam wrenches make aligning the driver-side cams a snap (they are pricey though). I would like a proper tool for holding the cams during belt removal and install though.

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May be I should market my C clamp, wooden block and ford wrench as a tool. :)

 

I believe that one cam was the only one that had spring pressure on it.

 

Most DIY'ers should have the C clamp and wood, the ford wrench you can buy at a tool store.

 

I'll have look and see where they come from.

 

That was easy,

http://www.bing.com/search?q=ford+wrench&FORM=CBPW&first=1

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

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I'm trying to think up something that you can put in between the two cams almost like a wedge that has the proper groves in it for the teeth.. Then again I'm assuming the spring pressure on the cam is not at peek lift so it would be only attempting to go in one direction.
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$86.00 bucks...at least my tool can be used for more then one thing....hey, did that come out right? :)

 

But your on the right thought. If you could come up with something that is half moon shaped that would slip in between the gears teeth. That would work.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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