What timing belt kit to get?

The lower toothed tensioner by the water pump was the squealer/half seized culprit on my 1993 wagon.

It vibrated so much that the bolt was loosening/stripping out of where it mounts to the water pump.

Glad I didn't get stranded somewhere.

 

So what timing kit to get? Found these two on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/220964567313

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261044918088

 

Thanks,

Britt

I will follow this thread and learn what to do too.

Of your two choices I would go with the second choice. It's a bit cheaper and I have heard the GMB water pumps are pretty good. In fact I have purchased and installed a timing belt kit from the seller that you linked to. I put it on my '95 L and it has worked just fine. I bought the hydraulic tensioner separately so my kit was $105.

 

When I rebuilt the 22T on my SS I bought a Gates timing belt kit. I liked the quality of the belt more than the mizmuauto kit. The Gates were marked correctly whereas the mizmuatuo belt had no markings so I had to count the teeth for proper install. I also felt like the Gates belt was easier to hang, although that may have been from learning how the previous install. Gates kits are a little more, but I will use them again next time I have to do a timing replacement.

 

When I went to do the install on my SS previous mechanics had stripped the pulley bolts so I had to drill the holes and install new threads. Fortunately the motor was out so it was pretty easy access. Just follow the FSM procedure in the correct order and you will be set!

Hello Britt;

You can save a few bucks by doing an inspection on the hydralic tensioner. First of all do not wash off the tensioner with any solvents! Wipe it clean with a rag and check for any leakage around the shaft. Put the tensioner in a vise and start to compress, do this slowly letting the unit to bleed down. If there are no leaks and it takes a while to bleed down the unit, you are good to go! While you are in there, be sure to replace the cam seals and front crankshaft seal. Good luck, Steven.

Thanks snederhiser. I agree with everything you mentioned. Many people on this site recommend always purchasing a new tensioner. However, Subaru techs I have spoken with on this subject said they only replace them if they are weeping, and in their experience the old style tensioners (those that are on our 22s) rarely fail.

 

I would like to mention a few more things to replace while doing the timing belt. There are two cam shaft support o-rings that are also prone to leakage. Only one of them can be replaced without removing the timing belt. Also, it is a good time to remove the oil pump and reseal it with RTV (Permatex Utlra Gray, Hondabond, Fujibond) sealant, and replace the oil pump o-ring. When the oil pump is off, check the screws on the back for tightness. They will work themselves loose.

Thanks for the extra work guys...I think...

 

Looks like I'm going to need a new bolt for the lower tensioner too.

Group 107

Figure 034-1

Bolt 16

Pn: 800110240

Bolt 10x40x20

Hello Brit;

I do auto repair work and it's not much fun having to go back in to do warranty work for free. Do yourself a favor and follow the sound advice that you have received. Besides the old Subie should run fine for another 80k, Steven.

Thanks for the info guys. I have a hard time not being a cheap bastard sometimes but I do have a tendency to do things right too. Last time I spent a bunch of money on a car, a few thousand miles later the trans gave up on me, $5k plus to replace. That was my old Audi A8, its got $800 of new control arms and a new radiator fan. Its been sitting for 4 years now. I did manage to get a rebuilt donor trans for a good price though but that's a whole other thread on a different site.

I just put all new rotors and brakes on the Subie and replaced a front wheel bearing and new wind sheild wipers. So the hair is standing up on the back of my neck.

But a least you guys have saved me $90 so far, even if I'll be spending it on other stuff.

$90 is $90

The tensioner looks good! No leaks. It was about 1/4 inch to long to get into the vice, so I put it upside down on the 20 ton press and one fingered it very easy and slowly. No leaks I'm good to go there I hope.

 

So while I'm at it, I guess I'll address the leaking steering pump, any BTDTs?

 

Britt

Usually the power steering pump leak is just the o-ring. You can get a complete power steering rebuild gasket kit for about $35. Mine leaks too and I haven't fixed it yet. But from what I understand you just siphon out the fluid with a turkey baster, pull out the filter, and undo one bolt holding it down and replace the o-ring.

Hello Britt;

Also check the front seal on the the pulley shaft. Is the back side of the pulley wet and or seems like oil is being flung? This would be a metric size seal and should be in stock at the local auto parts or bearing supply. Should be a cheap fix, Steven.

Looks like it has been leaking on the back side.

Had a little coolant leak on the top radiator hose and its been mixing with the trans/PS fluid and pooling on the block/head behind the PS pump.

 

Ebay TB kit on the way (est Sat delivery) and the new Subaru dealer has the replacement bolt in stock.

 

Hello Britt;

Also check the front seal on the the pulley shaft. Is the back side of the pulley wet and or seems like oil is being flung? This would be a metric size seal and should be in stock at the local auto parts or bearing supply. Should be a cheap fix, Steven.

Hello Britt;

I think Monkey is right about the resevoir oil tank o-ring being the culprit here. I doubt if the gasket is loose on the back, but you can check. Steven.

Ok, got the TB kit yesterday, but had to work, and today was family day.

 

Two more quick questions.

 

1 Best way to lock TB sprocket to remove bolt.

 

2 Best way to get out cam/main seals to replace.

 

I know how to replace with appropriate sized socket.

 

Thanks,

Britt

Do you have an impact wrench? Thats the best way to take off the sprockets. You can also take a long ass screwdriver in the spokes to jam it up and throw a breaker bar on the bolt.

 

Getting the seals out, something like a pick or a thin and pointy tool to grip it and yank it out. You are replacing them so no need to be easy.

Few pics of todays work.

I skipped the oil pump RNR, hope that doesn't bite me down the road.

Got the TB back on an running. Just got to get all the other bits back on and snapped up.

 

Now how do I replace the bearing in the AC clutch? It's noisy!

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x8rKUCILb-k]Subie AC bearing - YouTube[/ame]

 

TB fixed and running:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qNbVPo3cqtU]Subie TB - YouTube[/ame]

Hello Britt;

The AC clutch usually takes a special puller to remove from compressor. My experience would point to a good used unit, as a replacement bearing usually costs more than the unit. Steven.