gtal98 Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Okay, my car threw a P2012 [intake Manifold Runner Control Circuit Low (Bank 2)] code yesterday and it wasn't a fluke, because the car had no power at all. Obviously the TGV's on the driver's side were closed. So today I was first going to try the WD40 in the connector trick I've seen posted, but I got a little over zealous, and ended up removing the TGV sensor. When I put it back on, I obviously didn't align it right, because now I have a P2021 [intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Low (Bank 2)] code that I can't clear. I've looked through the PDF's I have of the Subaru Service manual and found this: Do not remove the tumble generator valve position sensor from tumble generator valve assembly, since it cannot be adjusted during installation. Refer to “Tumble Generator Valve Assembly” for removal and installation procedures. <Ref. to FU(H4DOTC)-30, REMOVAL, Tumble Generator Valve Assembly.> <Ref. to FU(H4DOTC)-30, INSTALLATION, Tumble Generator Valve Assembly.> So obviously I need to adjust the sensor, but I can't find the documents referenced there. Does anyone know how to properly adjust the TGV sensors? Thanks BTW my car is totally stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Those Meddling Kids Posted June 28, 2008 Share Posted June 28, 2008 Turn the sensor 90 degrees from where it lines up with the screw holes on the housing and press it unto the shaft. Then turn the whole sensor assembly- which also turns the shaft and screw in the two screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtal98 Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 90* clockwise, or counter-clockwise? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtal98 Posted June 29, 2008 Author Share Posted June 29, 2008 For future reference to anyone who might find this post in a search, on the drivers side you have to start with the TGV sensor 90° CCW from where it needs to be. Push it on with the electrical connector facing up, then rotate it CW so that the connector faces the drivers side of the car, and then install the bolts. I also had to temporarily remove a neighboring bolt that was holding a fuel line clip in place in order to rotate the sensor. And, I would like to say that spraying WD40 in the electrical connections seems to have worked. I just got back from a short test drive, and no CEL. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpartanII21 Posted August 21, 2010 Share Posted August 21, 2010 I just got this Code this past saturday. Ive done the wd-40 trick, used electrical contact cleaner, tried clearing the code by removing the battery ground and stepping on the brake even bought and OBDII scanner to delete it and nothing. It Comes right back, and now i have no boost at all guessing it went into limp mode. Im stuck does anyone have any idea on what to do? Please help i really dont want to go to the stealership if i dont have to. I have an 05 LGT Ltd 5EAT with 35K miles. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John M Posted August 22, 2010 Share Posted August 22, 2010 If it's not a connection issue it means the actual sensor is dead. That's also a common issue. I've been told RockAuto.com has them for the cheapest price around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpartanII21 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 how do i figure out what sensor in dead? turbo side or battery side? rear one towards the firewall or fwd one? Do you happen to know the p/n for the part? thanks for the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpartanII21 Posted August 23, 2010 Share Posted August 23, 2010 Ok i get it now after some more research the sensor is the bigger connector and the smaller one is the motor. now i just have to figure out which one is bad i just hope its the driver side. p/n i got from nasioc and scoobymods is 22633aa210 i hope this is the same for a legacy if so grimmspeed has them for sale used for $40 which is not bad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpartanII21 Posted August 30, 2010 Share Posted August 30, 2010 Well bought the sensor installed and nothing still have the CEL. So my guess now is the tgv motor is stuck or the valves themselves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishbone Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 Thread revival, couldn't find the straight answer although I have a feeling I already know. When the TGVs fail do they fail closed, open, or just fail? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Th3Franz Posted October 20, 2010 Share Posted October 20, 2010 I think it depends. Mine have thrown codes for sticking open and closed both I'm pretty sure. One of the main reasons I'm doing TGV deletes -Franz The end of a Legacy http://www.youtube.com/th3franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I have the P2016 code. I broke it while taking out my stupid tight banjo bolt. Anyone know which way I need to spin it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zac88 Posted October 29, 2011 Share Posted October 29, 2011 can anyone help please? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WahooNo2 Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 I believe they only spin one way because of the sping in them. Take a flat head screw driver and see which way there is spring tention by turning it gently left or right. When installing you will need to recreate the tention on the sensor by turning it left or right while its on the tgv. I had mine trip a few times before finally getting it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoscoeOutback Posted May 21, 2018 Share Posted May 21, 2018 I have also made the mistake of removing the position sensor from the TGV and fond that on my 08 OBXT it is easier to remove the TGV from the block in order to reinstall the sensor. There are too many obstacles, namelt the fuel rail and protector on passenger side and the Secondary Air crap and rail protector on the drivers side. To me it was worth the cost of gaskets. I want to delete the SAI system but have learned that Pennsylvania, starting in 2015, does not allow any "missing or incomplete registers" and that removing the code leaves these registers missing. Any PA board members with recent experience? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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