Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 1, 2011 Mega Users Share Posted February 1, 2011 Short Backstory: I purchased my used GRP 2005 AT GT (only one previous owner) from a Hyundai dealership in November of '06 with 39xxx miles. It's probably my single favorite posession ever:wub:. I had no significant problems until the stock turbo went. It failed at stock power levels failed at around (not sure of mileage at the moment 70,xxx). I then proceeded to install a used, upgraded 18g wheel VF-40 with an STi uppipe and an infamous tune. After a few hundred miles I could hear the compressor catching on the housing. I swapped that one out for a brand new VF-52 from FBP. I had it installed by a Subaru Dealer in SW VA. This was also coupled with an infamous tune (the first of its kind, basically a stage 1 tune with that size turbo). 900 miles later that failed catastrophically like the first one did. I spent that summer with my car sitting at the dealership haggling with SOA to cover it under warranty. They finally did and I had a stock VF-40 installed as its replacement with a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty. I am now beyond that warranty. The only significant body damage is on the back of the car. I had a kayak on my car (on a thule roof rack but no accessory holding it on) that decided to detach itself while going down the road. I had the stern tie down passing under my spoiler so as not to damage it by the strap causing it to flex when it was going over it. So when the straps holding the body of the kayak on gave way it detached the left side of the spoiler from the trunk. The spoiler is still halfway on and intact but the trunk skin is a little bent/warped. The other is a gouge and paint transfer from a white car (it is my suspicion that it was a cop car) on the middle of the rear bumper. Present: My odometer just recently passed 100,xxx. The turbo was doing just beautifully. Then one day my engine decided to spin a rod bearing and will require a new/used/reconditioned short block and will most likely require machining of the heads or new ones all together. I had just hooked up an oil pressure gauge and the pressure dropped to zero a split second before the car lost power and started making nasty sounds. I immediately pulled off the road and had it towed blah blah blah. So this is wherein my question lies. Finances: I owe just south of $5,000 on the car. The repairs will cost (assuming the turbo is still fine) about $5,000. The total value of the car in perfect condition is at best $10000. It will cost about $700-$1000 to have the trunk fixed. I am leaning towards selling the car seeing as how I will have to invest 5k to get it running, 5k to own it, and another 1k to fix the body damage. As I type this I am realizing the only option is to sell it for what I can get for it. My only concern is that I want to sell it for the value of the remainder of my loan (basically have the buyer buy out the car). Do you think this car's value is 4-5 thousand in its current condition? Am I crazy in wanting to get it fixed? I think I would keep it if I didn't owe the bank anything. I would just pull the engine and fix it/upgrade it at my leisure. Just wanted to share my problem, its been very therapeutic. Thanks in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
__raj Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 The cars value with a junk motor and body damage, $1500-$2000 at best. Fix the car you enjoy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pillboy Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Fix it is the best choice. Unless you have really dumb people with lots of money standing in line to buy it. Not many people are looking to buy an effed up car...unless the price is really good. It is still ugly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 1, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 1, 2011 Thanks for the input so far. Keep it coming. Say if I do choose to fix it. What's the best course of attack? Used engine with possibly the same problems? Reconditioned block w/ a warranty? Rebuilt block if the walls are still in good condition? I imagine an oil pan and pick up tube should be in order as well. Its my suspicion that the oil pressure went first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Thanks for the input so far. Keep it coming. Say if I do choose to fix it. What's the best course of attack? Used engine with possibly the same problems? Reconditioned block w/ a warranty? Rebuilt block if the walls are still in good condition? I imagine an oil pan and pick up tube should be in order as well. Its my suspicion that the oil pressure went first. If your going to keep the same turbo setup I would buy a new factory short block and have the heads reconditioned. I think the new short block is somewhere between $1800 and $2000 depending on where you get it. As long as the 5eat is in good condition, I would definitely keep it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 1, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 1, 2011 A few of the local shops I've spoken to said they were having trouble sourcing a brand new block. They could only find reconditioned or used ones. My 5EAT is definitely in great shape. I just don't know how long that's going to last. I'm just feeling gun shy at the moment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 A few of the local shops I've spoken to said they were having trouble sourcing a brand new block. They could only find reconditioned or used ones. My 5EAT is definitely in great shape. I just don't know how long that's going to last. I'm just feeling gun shy at the moment Were the local shops actual Subaru dealerships? You might also want to try Fred Beans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 I agree with Rick. Contact Fred beans, a new shortblock is 1900 plus tax. If you re-use most of the parts on your current motor you can figure another $1000 in needed parts on top of the cost for the block. Are there any shadetree subaru mechanics around? Is there a Harbor Freight close by? I replaced my shortblock in my garage last Summer. It is not that difficult, you just have to be organized. 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 1, 2011 Share Posted February 1, 2011 Find a auto machine shop in your town and talk with them. You can buy or rent a engine hoist, pull the engine, take it to the machine shop. They'll rebuild it, and you put it back in. Ask around at local repair shops and body shops that do restorations. They'll know who the good machine shops are. I'm kind of going through the smae thought process. I have all the tools I need just not sure I want to hassel with it. But on the other hand, I don't want to spend the $$,$$$ to replace the car, let alone find one with this much bang for the buck. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted February 2, 2011 I Donated Share Posted February 2, 2011 I got a longblock from an 06 WRX with 17k mi for $2000 locally when my original engine spun a bearing. There are deals out there if you look hard enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 2, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 2, 2011 Yeah, I've got a former Subaru Technician working for me. He's pretty well connected on the east coast. The owner of the shop where my car is sitting now actually called him to get some to see what the job entailed. He's not entirely familiar with Subarus. I took it there just to confirm that it was actually mechanical engine failure. I'll probably have my Subaru guy do the actual work. He'll be cheaper by about $1000 and he'll be able to find something more in my price range. I'm now leaning towards keeping it. Selling it as is would net me about 1,500 with the current body damage (no big deal to me but definitely to a potential buyer). This would leave me nowhere on my loan and not carless but legacy-less. If I can't find a good deal on a shortblock/longblock/engine etc. I'm going to rip the damn thing out myself no matter how long it takes me to get it done. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vr4Legacy Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 If you have another car, I'd def go for rebuilding it yourself. If your mechanic is also a friend he'd probably be willing to step in a help with anything difficult that you can't do on your own for some money on the side, which would save you a lot in the end. GL whichever route you choose. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wang Lung Posted February 2, 2011 Share Posted February 2, 2011 I can barely change the plugs on this car. But if I had no time constraint, I would definitely re-build myself. Given enough time, I can do anything. Keep it and DIY. It will be a blast. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 7, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 7, 2011 So I've finally figured out the direction for fixing this car. I'm having my friend, the former Subaru Technician install a factory new EJ255 shortblock. I'm having the car towed to his house towards the end of the week. We'll then start digging our way towards the block. The new block is the only new part that we are certain of getting at this point. I'm not sure what to do about the heads. If they are mechanically fine I am ok with reusing them. I'm just not very excited about using heads with 100k on them with a brand new block. If they need to be repaired then that is that. I believe that the engine failure was due to an oil pressure problem. So I am at least looking at getting the Killer B oil pickup tube and the Killer B windage tray. All other parts will be replaced as needed. My timing belt and water pump were replaced at about 80k so if they are in good shape they will be reused. The oil pump is still a question and should probably be replaced just because. The spark plugs will be changed as well. I'm basically wondering whether I should do a complete overhaul with new parts (pumps, hoses, belts, etc) or try to reuse parts that are in working order. If anyone has been in this spot before let me know what parts you replaced/ what your philosophy towards the rebuild was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted February 8, 2011 Share Posted February 8, 2011 For years the general rule has been rebuild the heads too. At least take them to a machine shop and have them checked. It's just the smart thing to do. Chances are they will at least take them apart and check everything over and do a light rebuild. Better safe then sorry. May be resurface them. I would replace the oil pump too. timing belt is a tuff one. it only has 20,000 miles on it. Replace you drive belts too. (A/C and Alt) 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users LieutenantDan Posted February 9, 2011 Author Mega Users Share Posted February 9, 2011 Alright, I finally have a direction for fixing this POS. 1. Brand new EJ255 shortblock w/ Full engine gasket and seal set b. Take heads to machine shop III. Install Complete Gates Racing Timing Kit Four. Install Killer B Oil Pickup & Oil Baffle/Windage Tray V. Replace Oil Pump with new EJ25 11mm oil pump Eff. Change spark plugs SEVEN. Fix anything else that I see I'm very interested in the health, effectiveness, and low temperature of my engine oil. Oh yeah and: Change ATF and Differential fluid Bleed and change brake fluid Change Coolant (obviously) Install JDM GT Spec A Bilsteins Swap JDM GT Spec A springs with STi Pink Springs Purchase and Install RSB Reinforcement Brackets for my 19mm Rallitek sway bar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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