Starting Problems on my 97 GT

So it turns out what I thought to be a simple starter problem or even a battery isn't the problem. I'm new to the forum and just purchased my leggy last Monday. When I test drove the car it started fine, same with the day I picked it up. It even made the 2 hour trip from Boston. After sitting in my driveway for about a week I went to start it and it won't start. All of the lights on the dash come on and the engine starts to crank but doesn't turn over. I tried jump starting the car thinking the battery might be weak but it wouldn't start with that either. The car is pretty low on gas so I figured maybe the gas gauge is slightly off so I took a fuel can and added about 1/4 of a tank. It still doesn't start.

 

This makes me think it isn't the battery, starter, or alternator. My father seems to think the timing belt is bad but when driven it was perfectly fine with no indication of failure. Can these belts fail when the engine isn't running?

 

I've also been searching the forums and it looks like the ignition lock is a common problem in these cars. That could be a possibility. I attempted to start the car on friday and i couldnt even turn the key. After moving the wheel I found that the wheel lock was almost non existant. I moved the wheel and got the key to move to acc but it wouldnt start, and would only crank.

 

I'm open for any suggestions! Thanks!

First check that the cable between the battery and starter is in good condition. Especially the connectors.

 

Also measure the battery with a load test device - it may be weak or have a dead cell.

 

And as third option it may well be that the starter has to be replaced.

 

You may also try to manually turn over the engine using a socket and a ratchet handle just to make sure that it is possible to do one full turn. Apply to the belt pulley with ignition off. If you get a complete stop then you have something bad, but if you are able to do one or better two full turns of the engine it's nothing there that should cause a problem.

It's definitely not the battery. I just bought a new one (made sure i could return it first) and when I installed it the same thing occurred.

 

I checked the cable from the battery to the starter and it looked OK. It's hard to tell though because it has a sleeve type lining on it. The connectors looked fine. I'm thinking of just trying to replace the starter anyway just so I know it's not the problem. I'll return the battery and buy a starter and return that if necessary.

 

What do you mean by starting it with a ratchet/socket? Sorry I'm a noob.

Where your crank pulley is in front of the engine (where the two accessory belts are driven off of), you can put a socket with a breaker bar on there and try and make the engine turn that way.

 

So, is the car turning over and just not firing, or dieing off before the starter motor turns on enough?

Make sure your battery is grounded.

See if where the circuit is grounded to firewall and the engine are complete. Bolts tight and straps in one piece.

 

Check voltage from battery hot to ground on car . Should be close to reading across the battery terminals.

 

Check fuses.

 

Then advise.

 

O.

What do you mean by starting it with a ratchet/socket? Sorry I'm a noob.

 

I only meant that you should turn the engine around a few turns manually to verify that it isn't stuck on something internally - in which case you have a mechanical problem inside the engine and not any problem with the starter at all.

 

Ignition off to avoid accidents and injury. If you can't turn it around because there is a distinct stop that doesn't flex at all I suggest that you have someone more experienced look at it first.

Check your coolant overflow tank and have someone crank the car and watch the coolant. Also open your radiator cap if it squirts coolant or air then it has hydrocarbons in the cooling system. I have seen this a few times where the car will crank and turn over a few times but wont start, when the battery is checked it has full voltage and it ends up being a severe case of headgasket failure, most have coolant all the way to the top of the resevoir and some will push the coolant out of the resevoir when cranking.

So, is the car turning over and just not firing, or dieing off before the starter motor turns on enough?

 

Yes, if I wanted to I could hold the ignition to the starting position and it would keep trying until I let go. But it won't catch and start to idle. Usually when I've seen a starter go (a freinds' honda) they just make a clicking noise and don't crank at all.

 

 

Make sure your battery is grounded.

See if where the circuit is grounded to firewall and the engine are complete. Bolts tight and straps in one piece.

 

Check voltage from battery hot to ground on car . Should be close to reading across the battery terminals.

 

Check fuses.

 

Then advise.

 

O.

 

I followed the ground and it is going to the firewall. The pos & neg were tightened on the new battery to make sure they were in contact. The battery was brand new as of yesterday (duralast gold). I don't have testing equipment so i don't know the voltage.

 

I still need to check the fuses. The last time I started the car, successfully, I had put a 10amp fuse in the fwd holder on the pass side. The car started but no fwd indicator light on the dash came on. Since that time I have taken the fuse out and put it in and tried starting but no dice. However, that was about 4 days after the successful start.

I only meant that you should turn the engine around a few turns manually to verify that it isn't stuck on something internally - in which case you have a mechanical problem inside the engine and not any problem with the starter at all.

 

Ignition off to avoid accidents and injury. If you can't turn it around because there is a distinct stop that doesn't flex at all I suggest that you have someone more experienced look at it first.

 

I also need to try this^. Its about 5 degrees out right now though so I'm not too eager to go out there.

 

Also the coolant is up to the cold fill line and looks like it should be flushed but it definitely doesn't look like there is any oil in there. When taking the car home from Boston it didn't overheat or anything. Temp stayed a little below normal. I will try to see if it boils over probably tomorrow if its any warmer.

Yes, if I wanted to I could hold the ignition to the starting position and it would keep trying until I let go. But it won't catch and start to idle. Usually when I've seen a starter go (a freinds' honda) they just make a clicking noise and don't crank at all.

 

Ah - so the engine actually does turn over, but it never ignites. Then you have to figure out if you are missing a spark or if it's no fuel that's the problem.

 

No fuel may be that the fuel pump is dead or that it doesn't get any power.

 

Try replacing the fuel pump relay with a wire and see if the fuel pump starts (make sure you do this in a quiet location). That can give an indication. Also try to measure if it actually provides power to the fuel pump.

Ah - so the engine actually does turn over, but it never ignites. Then you have to figure out if you are missing a spark or if it's no fuel that's the problem.

 

No fuel may be that the fuel pump is dead or that it doesn't get any power.

 

Try replacing the fuel pump relay with a wire and see if the fuel pump starts (make sure you do this in a quiet location). That can give an indication. Also try to measure if it actually provides power to the fuel pump.

 

I thought it would be something along the lines of this. My old explorer had a similar problem and ended up being the fuel pump. My mechanic suggested that I try to hit the gas tank (had the fuel pump within the tank) to shake loose the sediment to get it started temporarily. It worked and I got it to the garage but I don't know if I should do this on the much nicer Legacy. Is the fuel pump on these cars within the gas tank?

Could also be the fuel filter, could be clogged... just a thought.

Maybe, but that doesn't explain the complete switchover from being alive one day and dead the next.

 

An evil thought - is there any fuel in the tank? Maybe the pump is just sucking air?

Maybe, but that doesn't explain the complete switchover from being alive one day and dead the next.

 

An evil thought - is there any fuel in the tank? Maybe the pump is just sucking air?

 

That's where I kind of get embarrassed. I drove the car from Boston to my house and didn't stop for gas because it was a little late, cold, etc...Stupid me!.... It was very close to "E" but didn't show the check gauge or low fuel warning light. I thought that it might just not have gas, so as I said before i took a gas can, filled it up and it's no longer in the "danger zone" but still not starting. I think the most probable thing is the fuel pump& filter (sediment in the tank and driving on E killed the one in the Exploder). Anyone know where they are?

 

And thanks for all the help you guys are giving me! I really appreciate it. I'm eager to get this fixed pronto but it's so damn cold. 0 degrees right now.

Fuel pump is usually in the tank these days. Start looking there.

Fuel filter is right behind the washer fluid tank. Looks like a lil UFO thing. Could pull the incoming hose off and have someone turn over the starter for a second to see if you are getting fuel.

 

It could be that the sediment got to the filter, i doubt it would kill the fuel pump.

 

Check to see if you are getting spark too (do this way after the gas check, don't want you going boom)