Slipping in 5th.. Clutch or Transmission

On two occasions in the last couple weeks, I've experienced slipping in 5th gear when going WOT. At 60, I'd floor the throttle, acceleration would proceed normally for about two seconds, then RPMs would shoot up to ~6k. The car would still accelerate but not keeping pace with the RPMs.

 

I assume this is the clutch slipping and it's going to get worse... But is it just the clutch, or is my transmission on the way out?

 

This car has only 16.5k miles on it.

clutch.

Pretty remarkable at 16.5k miles. Bad clutch from factory or user error.

option two.

Pretty remarkable at 16.5k miles. Bad clutch from factory or user error.

 

The car has been stage 2 for maybe 10k miles. I don't think I've ever been particularly hard on it (never launched it, for instance), but it hasn't been babied either.

If it were me, I'd buy an aftermarket clutch and then have it installed for free under warranty if the dealer will do that. I image there are folks on the forum who have been in this situation.

http://www.specclutch.com/

 

Contact them and ask for Danny Smith, tell him your set up and see what he can do for you, You can tell him Byron sent you. He helped me get one of the first set up's for these cars. That's Danny on the photo on the home page.

 

I have almost 30,000 miles on my 2+ at AP stage 1 93 octane and love the grip of the clutch.

^^ I have the same or more milage on my ACT setup. And I've been stage 3 for at least 5000. I def do not baby this clutch.

If it were me, I'd buy an aftermarket clutch and then have it installed for free under warranty if the dealer will do that. I image there are folks on the forum who have been in this situation.

 

I'll definitely replace it with an aftermarket clutch... But under warranty is probably a no-go. Besides being a modified car, it's past the end of the bumper-to-bumper warrant by a couple weeks (36 months).

 

From what I've been reading, it does sound like SPEC or ACT will be the way to go.

 

Does anyone have any idea how long I'm likely to be able to go on this clutch if it's just starting to slip under load in 5th?

Does anyone have any idea how long I'm likely to be able to go on this clutch if it's just starting to slip under load in 5th?

 

I just went 3 weeks after mine starting slipping in 5th. I could have easily gone longer, but I did get to the point where I couldn't floor it in 2nd, 3rd, or 4th either. Still pretty driveable other than WOT. I'd say 4-8 weeks, depending upon how much you drive and how often you "test" it...

Drive train is covered for 60,000 miles. They may at least cover labor. See what the dealer will do for you.

But the clutch is only covered to 36000.

 

The ACT HDSS would be a great clutch for street use for you if you plan to stay stage 2. It holds about 40% more torque than the stock clutch which is plenty for what you are making.

 

Tony

But the clutch is only covered to 36000.

 

The ACT HDSS would be a great clutch for street use for you if you plan to stay stage 2. It holds about 40% more torque than the stock clutch which is plenty for what you are making.

 

Tony

 

I've just had my ACT HDMM for 5 days (with OEM WRX '06-'07) and love it so far. Feels very surprisingly similar to stock.

Something is wrong. Either the clutch is glazed or the pressure plate is broken.....

 

I've got 78K miles on my stocker (65K of these at Stg. 2)

manual trans' dont slip. its the clutch that slips. time for a new clutch.

+1 clutch.

Something is wrong. Either the clutch is glazed or the pressure plate is broken.....

 

I've got 78K miles on my stocker (65K of these at Stg. 2)

 

 

he's not a little old lady like you:p

he's not a little old lady like you:p

 

 

Thanks for the help, everyone.

 

So when I replace the clutch, am I going to want to replace the flywheel and TOB also? The stories of disintegrating throw-out bearings make me nervous.

 

Thanks for the help, everyone.

 

So when I replace the clutch, am I going to want to replace the flywheel and TOB also? The stories of disintegrating throw-out bearings make me nervous.

 

TOB and Pilot Bearing should be included with the clutch and PP. And, yes you will also need a flywheel as the stockers are usually pretty chewed and not easilly resurfaced.

When my OEM flywheel (55k miles) came out a few days ago it looked like it could be re-used. The guys at the shop told me that the LGT flys can't be resurfaced. I had no plans on using it anyways so we threw it out.

 

My clutch kit (ACT HDMM) had everything in the kit (aligment tool, pilot bearing, TOB, clutch pressure plate).

he's not a little old lady like you:p

 

Say's the driver of the "grocery getter".

 

Fastest one you'll ever see

But the clutch is only covered to 36000.

 

The ACT HDSS would be a great clutch for street use for you if you plan to stay stage 2. It holds about 40% more torque than the stock clutch which is plenty for what you are making.

 

I don't really plan on any more power modifications (I had big plans for a while, but things got in the way... I've barely had a chance to drive the car, as the mileage will attest to), so I'll probably be sticking with where I am (it's actually a TDC stage 2 map right now).

 

Ideally, I'd like a clutch that's pretty close to stock feeling as far as smoothness and NVH... It sounds like maybe the ACT will be the best choice for that? And using a WRX flywheel?

act with the streetlite fly wheel is the best thing for the street.

If I had to do it again, I would go with the wrx fly instead of the lightweight one.

 

 

The lightweight one is nice and all and does everythignti said it would.... it's just a teensy weensy bit harder to drive around town. Revs drop so fast you have to make every shift a race shift or it's not smooth.