Schrapnel pieces bottom oil pan

190k mile ebay driver. GF has not changed oil in 7k. 06 LGT 2.5 silver. black leather Automatic

Took off with a solid CEL and the Cruise flashing. Limped home 10 miles. Obviously the turbo stopped. No overheat, oil level full. Heard some pretty odd sounds, like wastegate pressure release then a short higher pitched wee-wee-wee then no turbo. On acceleration smoke coming from rear exhaust, definitely oil. Idle went below 500. stalled. started up, smoke. Kept driving, no other lights, warnings. Been sitting in my garage for 2 weeks. Started. a little oil smoke. shut it down. Small oil puddle directly under the turbo, downpipe. Pulled the intercooler, with visible oil in the passages. With flast light, a 6" by 1" (est) rubber hose has a 1" long slit. It is next to Banjo Bolt on the passenger side. Drained the oil through a screen, no metals. however, stuck a magnet inside the bottom of the oil pan and came up with this stuff. What do I do next?

Agree with all the above If it's shut off right away, sometimes the oil filter will have caught all the metal bits, and only a new turbo will be necessary. But after more driving the oil filter becomes too clogged and it's bypass opens, sending the shrapnel throughout the engine (that's probably why you got the P0011 and P0021, because the banjo screens then got clogged, the OCV's couldn't operate properly, and threw those codes).

You could tear it all apart to find out the extent of the damage.

Here's the right way to do it.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

EJ257 short block $1800

Gasket set $250

My machine shop bill was $1200 but they did a lot of work for me.

A lot of work and a new engine is worth it if the car is otherwise sound.

Or you can do what frank_ster did and transplant a Buick engine into the car! An alternative could be an engine from here: http://www.boxeer.com/

But it also depends on how much workshop fun you want to have! And the local emissions regulations.

rob-2 has it right. With 190k, keep investment exposure low. The LGT has minimum wear otherwise. I went with Hong Kong for the TD05H 16 turbo, and to EBAY for the cork pan gasket. $240. Compression is 135 across the board.

Clean it, run it. go from there. I'll update once the turbo is back in. Yes. I am turning my back on changing out the motor, down pipes, up pipes, intercooler, pop off valve, etc etc. because it still runs without noises.

Is it paid for? Do you still really like the car and the style and the way it drives (drove)? Is it in solid shape body-wise without huge amounts of rust or body repairs pending? Does everything work otherwise (windows, seats, cruise, lights, controls, transmission, brakes, suspension, exhaust) as it should? Tires and wheels are in decent shape and interior is not trashed?

Consider the fact that you can't buy anything that even resembles this body style anymore. To replace it, you'll have to spend anywhere from $8500 to $10,000 to actually find one in good shape, not to mention the problems that will come with a purchase like that.

On top of that, you'll have to take a loss on your existing car whether or not you sell it complete non-running or part it out. THIS is a HUGE pain in the ass because then you have to disassemble the entire car which takes a LOT of time and space and if the weather is crap and you're working outdoors, then even MORE pain in the ass. Dealing with negotiation on parts prices, shipping, possible complaints by purchasers, and THEN having to store the parts until they are sold, get them ready for shipping, take them down to UPS or FedEx and when that is all said and done (probably about 3-4 months of diligent posting on the FS threads), you have to figure out how to get rid of the carcass.

Consider that first, you know the car and it's foibles and features, and second, from what we've seen in your photos, you can obviously do the work yourself. Then consider to spend, say, $3500 on a shortblock and related parts, and doing the job yourself. When you're finished, you know EXACTLY what you have in every aspect and what kind of condition it's in and what you have to do next.

Compare this expenditure versus a car payment for 48 or 60 months, increased insurance and plate prices, and you STILL are dealing with an unknown if you buy another car.

If the answer to all of the top questions are yes, then there is absolutely no question in my own mind which way to go. Of course, that's your call, but if it were mine, I would fix it. The junkyard idea is not a bad one if you can find an engine for a reasonable price, but then again, you'll spend $2500 and STILL not know for sure what you have. Many of the parts that you would need are available right here on these forums (by OTHER people that have decided to deal with the pain in the ass of parting out their cars but hey, what the heck, it takes all kinds...LOL) for reduced prices and with msprank, AZTinstalls, and the other tech people on here, they will be more than willing to help you with right prices, right shipping, and right information.

There is a HUGE wealth of knowledge on here by people that have been through exactly what you're going through (boxkita, Max Capacity, etc.) and they (we) would love to see you keep the car, do it right (does NOT have to be modded in ANY way-stock is cool too) and enjoy the hell out of it for another 5 years and then STILL be able to sell it for more than you'll have in it so someone else can enjoy it too. Not to mention that YOU will feel truly like you've truly achieved an accomplishment as soon as you drive it for the first time and it pulls strong and sounds great.

Just my own $.02. Okay, maybe more like $.25 for being long winded...LOL

JmP wow!! I'll give you .25 and up it to .50. I paid $5800 (+change) cash on Ebay 11 months ago for the LGT. I couldn't believe how clean it was, leather interior, no stains, no dents. We have some good Subaru history. Sis has a 280k mile 02 Forester, Mom has a ’14 Forester, and I have an ’02 Forester S with 200k (that is lent out). I keep 5 cars, have no brand loyalty and a very nice climate controlled garage that is equipped with almost every tool. I have R&R'd cars, trucks, boats, motorcycles, tractors. I never borrow money to purchase cars, and own brand new cars as well as used ones.

I asked the forum for opinions on the next step after the turbo blew... and I got several good answers from passionate LGT owners. IMHO, I believe replacing the motor is overkill. I will fix this car for $240. No mods, no rebuilds, nothing except a new turbo and an oil passage cleanup. I have no problem with parts from the Rest of the World.

Incidentally, I have 3 rebuilds on my bench as I type, 2- 25 hp Kohler Commands, one vertical, one horizontal and a 1943 Chalmers "C" 4 banger. I recently rebuilt my Yanmar diesel in the JD, and have a Turbo diesel in the truck that I have recently wrenched. I don’t like to modify things, but the VF 40 turbo is and was a piece of crap, that’s why I went with the Chinese TDO5H-16 turbo. My first restoration was a 1967 RS convertible, Butternut Yellow, Deluxe Interior 327 Powerglide Camaro back in 1974. I’ve been a motor head a long time.

JmP wow!! I'll give you .25 and up it to .50. I paid $5800 (+change) cash on Ebay 11 months ago for the LGT. I couldn't believe how clean it was, leather interior, no stains, no dents. We have some good Subaru history. Sis has a 280k mile 02 Forester, Mom has a ’14 Forester, and I have an ’02 Forester S with 200k (that is lent out). I keep 5 cars, have no brand loyalty and a very nice climate controlled garage that is equipped with almost every tool. I have R&R'd cars, trucks, boats, motorcycles, tractors. I never borrow money to purchase cars, and own brand new cars as well as used ones.

 

I asked the forum for opinions on the next step after the turbo blew... and I got several good answers from passionate LGT owners. IMHO, I believe replacing the motor is overkill. I will fix this car for $240. No mods, no rebuilds, nothing except a new turbo and an oil passage cleanup. I have no problem with parts from the Rest of the World.

 

Incidentally, I have 3 rebuilds on my bench as I type, 2- 25 hp Kohler Commands, one vertical, one horizontal and a 1943 Chalmers "C" 4 banger. I recently rebuilt my Yanmar diesel in the JD, and have a Turbo diesel in the truck that I have recently wrenched. I don’t like to modify things, but the VF 40 turbo is and was a piece of crap, that’s why I went with the Chinese TDO5H-16 turbo. My first restoration was a 1967 RS convertible, Butternut Yellow, Deluxe Interior 327 Powerglide Camaro back in 1974. I’ve been a motor head a long time.

I absolutely hope the best for you and that it turns out to be OK. I'll be curious to see how that turbo works out for you too. I think a lot of people on here would like to know that information.

Good luck with it and I think it's in good hands.

Funny how these cars are ready to junk at 200K and I see Jeeps in my shop all the time with 200+ running strong. Only problem is rust.

I think it's hit or miss on this.

The jeeps aren't tubro'd motors. And generally speaking Jeeps are a pile-o-shit.

However 200K miles on a motor is great.

Is it paid for? Do you still really like the car and the style and the way it drives (drove)? Is it in solid shape body-wise without huge amounts of rust or body repairs pending? Does everything work otherwise (windows, seats, cruise, lights, controls, transmission, brakes, suspension, exhaust) as it should? Tires and wheels are in decent shape and interior is not trashed?

 

Consider the fact that you can't buy anything that even resembles this body style anymore. To replace it, you'll have to spend anywhere from $8500 to $10,000 to actually find one in good shape, not to mention the problems that will come with a purchase like that.

 

On top of that, you'll have to take a loss on your existing car whether or not you sell it complete non-running or part it out. THIS is a HUGE pain in the ass because then you have to disassemble the entire car which takes a LOT of time and space and if the weather is crap and you're working outdoors, then even MORE pain in the ass. Dealing with negotiation on parts prices, shipping, possible complaints by purchasers, and THEN having to store the parts until they are sold, get them ready for shipping, take them down to UPS or FedEx and when that is all said and done (probably about 3-4 months of diligent posting on the FS threads), you have to figure out how to get rid of the carcass.

 

Consider that first, you know the car and it's foibles and features, and second, from what we've seen in your photos, you can obviously do the work yourself. Then consider to spend, say, $3500 on a shortblock and related parts, and doing the job yourself. When you're finished, you know EXACTLY what you have in every aspect and what kind of condition it's in and what you have to do next.

 

Compare this expenditure versus a car payment for 48 or 60 months, increased insurance and plate prices, and you STILL are dealing with an unknown if you buy another car.

 

If the answer to all of the top questions are yes, then there is absolutely no question in my own mind which way to go. Of course, that's your call, but if it were mine, I would fix it. The junkyard idea is not a bad one if you can find an engine for a reasonable price, but then again, you'll spend $2500 and STILL not know for sure what you have. Many of the parts that you would need are available right here on these forums (by OTHER people that have decided to deal with the pain in the ass of parting out their cars but hey, what the heck, it takes all kinds...LOL) for reduced prices and with msprank, AZTinstalls, and the other tech people on here, they will be more than willing to help you with right prices, right shipping, and right information.

 

There is a HUGE wealth of knowledge on here by people that have been through exactly what you're going through (boxkita, Max Capacity, etc.) and they (we) would love to see you keep the car, do it right (does NOT have to be modded in ANY way-stock is cool too) and enjoy the hell out of it for another 5 years and then STILL be able to sell it for more than you'll have in it so someone else can enjoy it too. Not to mention that YOU will feel truly like you've truly achieved an accomplishment as soon as you drive it for the first time and it pulls strong and sounds great.

 

Just my own $.02. Okay, maybe more like $.25 for being long winded...LOL

 

It'a always cheaper to fix the car you have then to buy something. However it's not always wise to put serious coin into a car towards the end of it's life.

I normally go by the rule that when a repair exceeds half the value of the car I think seriously about doing it. This generally works on lower value cars. IE $14K car needs $6K in work - it's cheaper and better to fix. A $7K car needing $6k in work is better to walk away from. A $50K car needing $6k in work - no brainer.

Age is also a factor. A car approaching 10 years is going to have stuff go wrong by age alone. All this adds up. Life is short and constantly fixing this, well who actually has time for that? If you have tons of free time by all means waste it fixing cars.

Just because it's a waste for you doesn't mean it's a waste for everyone.

I guess I'd rather be driving the car, or out doing something instead of fixing a car regularly. In my eyes life is best lived outside, active. Spending lengthy periods of time under the hood isn't 'living'. I want to be hitting the slopes, track, beach, bike, camping, hiking, spending quality time with the family etc.

I do almost all my own work so chasing down things that fail due to age - well life is too short for that silliness. IMHO.

On a side note has anyone 2.5i'd a LGT yet?

Oh God. But why?

Because they might just need to have a car to drive, and once you've sunk a couple of turbos/shortblocks into your LGT it might be an option? Junk yard NA motors are probably a safer and cheaper bet. ECU wouldn't be too much either.

I believe it is more involved than that... specifically wiring is a pain. If you are going through the trouble, I would be much happier with an H6 swap.