vlad_b Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 One of my rear wheel bearings needed a replacement. At 104K miles of course So I got a new timken bearing, gathered tools necessary... and I can't get the rotor off! Parking brake disengaged. Rotor just won't move. I hit it with a hammer more than a few times - no change. Tried to drive bolts in the holes as manual suggests - no help. So I removed 4 bolts from the bearing (easily). I was hoping the bearing will come off WITH the rotor and the I'll just get a new rotor too - nope. Nothing moves. Tried slide hammer, braket was too big so I could only get it onto one bolt. Gave pretty good pulls - still no change. Tried to put wd40 into the bolt holes and around the central hole - no change. What do I do next? Had to drive together with wife today - she won't tolerate it for long! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Use a big sledgehammer with protection on the end of it, don't damage your rotor then hit your wife with it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_b Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 where do I get a sledge hammer? Never needed it before... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 hardware store? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 where do I get a sledge hammer? Never needed it before... Joking? I'd use a dead-blow hammer, not a sledge. Dead blow hammer >>> sledge hammer for any kind of automotive work. In fact, unless you are pounding spikes into the ground or demolishing a wall, a sledge hammer is one of the least useful tools I've ever owned. A dead blow, however, is an amazing tool. [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BAC5.2 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Alternately, just put everything back together and drive the car over to a shop and have them do it. When you used the slide hammer, I assume you unbolted the axle nut, right? [URL="http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/proper-flip-key-interesti-159894.html"]Flip Key Development Thread[/URL] "Genius may have its limitations, but stupidity is not thus handicapped." - E. Hubbard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_b Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 What weight will work the best? It looks like my Autozone have 2.6 lbs deadblow hammer. Will it work or is it too light? http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/Great-Neck-Dead-blow-hammer/_/N-25qn?counter=0&filterByKeyWord=deadblow&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=141456_0_0_ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_b Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Alternately, just put everything back together and drive the car over to a shop and have them do it. When you used the slide hammer, I assume you unbolted the axle nut, right? Not use to quitting! I have till Monday before I go for that option. Yes, I unbolted the axle nut. Axle is free and can be pushed in easily by finger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 put some sack into your hits on the rotor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted January 5, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted January 5, 2012 soak that mother in PB blaster all day and try everything you mentioned all over again. "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 I used a sledge hammer on my front rotors after a smaller hammer and crowbow wiggling didn't do anything. And those weren't truly frozen on. And it had soaked in PB blaster. I literally think 20 seconds of sledge use had them pop off (I was replacing them). However, here's how I did it: I held the sledge out about 20-30 degrees worth of arc away from the car and let it swing inwards to hit the rotor. I put no force behind it, except letting it swing. If it didn't break, I'd let it swing from a few degrees more to let it build more momentum. I never even got to 45 degrees. The rotors notably shifted by then, breaking their seal with the hub. I then simply wiggled them off with some rough handling. Worked on both sides of the car. My recommendation is to consider picking up a new rear rotor for this job. They aren't expensive, and you are in there already.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RochNY91TSI Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 I don't remember if the holes line up on our rear rotors, but if they do, this will work every time: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/BrakeRotors.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiffy_jan Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 My 05 lgt wagon has two threaded holes in the rotor, one on each side of the hub. The holes are meant for bolts to screw in and push the rotor off the hub. I believe the bolt size is metric, M8 IIRC. It works like a charm! Let me know if that helps! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jiffy_jan Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Sorry, didn't quite read your post! That will only help with the rotor! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_b Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Now this looks like it should work. If I can get access to the other side of the hole. Which I'm not sure Don't remember exactly, but I think it's hidden behind the shield, so I woun't be able to put nut on those bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_b Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 My 05 lgt wagon has two threaded holes in the rotor, one on each side of the hub. The holes are meant for bolts to screw in and push the rotor off the hub. I believe the bolt size is metric, M8 IIRC. It works like a charm! Let me know if that helps! Didn't work for me. I put the bolt from the caliper through it and I can see the threads giving up. Not the rotor!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted January 5, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted January 5, 2012 Now this looks like it should work. If I can get access to the other side of the hole. Which I'm not sure Don't remember exactly, but I think it's hidden behind the shield, so I woun't be able to put nut on those bolts you should be able to put 2 M8 bolts in there and tighten them evenly against the hub. spray some PB there before you try it. for the hub, are you replacing the entire assembly or just the bearing? I mutilated the studs on the hub. The axle nut removal was not easy for me, I had to wedge a crow bar between 2 of the studs, heat the bolt up with MAPP gas, and jump on a 2 foot 1/2" breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe added to it for leverage. The reason why I'm saying this is because I couldnt get 2 connections on my slide hammer and I jerry rigged the hell out of it to make it work. It didn't matter if I compromised one or two of the studs at that point as I was replacing the whole assembly anyways. It was frusterating as hell for me but you'll get it done! "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_b Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 Axle nut took 1 minute to undo for me. With some cheater pipe. I was so hoping the rest will go as easy... Yes, I'm replacing the whole assembly. If I can get it out. I also don't mind replacing the rotor if necessary. It's not in bad shape but it might be by the end of the process Where do I get new M8 bolts? Home Depot didn't have them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users paintpollz Posted January 5, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted January 5, 2012 yes they do, I promise. Any hardware store will have them. They are standard metric bolts. "Remember Danny - Two wrongs don't make a right but three rights make a left." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeFromPA Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 The m8 approach didn't work well for me on my fronts. The holes were gunked up with crap (PA roadway winters, gotta love 'em) and the bolts got shredded as well. Big hammer man. Works. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 and just so you know, the bearing won't come out until you take apart the parking brake stuff. so don't try to pry it all out together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magnetic1 Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 Axle nut took 1 minute to undo for me. With some cheater pipe. I was so hoping the rest will go as easy... Yes, I'm replacing the whole assembly. If I can get it out. I also don't mind replacing the rotor if necessary. It's not in bad shape but it might be by the end of the process Where do I get new M8 bolts? Home Depot didn't have them Ace Hardware usually has a good selection of metric bolts. Free Sonax Cleaner Deal http://www.brakeswap.com Carbotech, Hawk, PFC, DBA Rotors, Motul, Wilwood, Castrol... Great service. No bumping required ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vlad_b Posted January 6, 2012 Author Share Posted January 6, 2012 Yep, Ace Hardware had them bolts. WD40 overnight, few less restrained hits with deadblow hammer, and two proper sized M8 bolts did it in 2 minutes the next day. I think my biggest mistake was not using proper sized M8 bolts. I tired using the ones that hold caliper, and they are fine threaded, not regular. Manual doesn't say anything about pitch!!! To get the bearing assembly out it took another few minutes of pounding with slide hammer. While changin brake pads on the other side, I tried just M8 bolts with nothing else, just for test, and rotor separated immediately. Result - $80 spent for high quality bearing VS. $360 dealer wanted for this (and the same crappy bearing). Thanks a lot for help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jamal Posted January 6, 2012 Share Posted January 6, 2012 m8x1.25 the ones that hold the brake lines are the right size. I never use actual bolts from the car because they tend to get messed up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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