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Root cause of cruise control failure...


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So I've also been have cruise control fail on me frequently. And after reading the previous posts, it seems the neutral switch might have something to do with this. Coincidentally, I just started logging ecu data to my laptop and one of the options was to log the state of the neutral switch. So while on the highway yesterday cruising along (no cruise control) in 5th gear, I started logging the state of the neutral switch. The data is coming from the ecu, so this is what the ecu thinks the state of the neutral switch is:

neutral_all.JPG.da109887181dc92647869ec6cea381c4.JPG

neutral_zoom.JPG.14bfcfb4eb0f2c56d44c1e8ac4652b78.JPG

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SOA says you should never connect anything to the Data Link Connector other than a Subaru Select Monitor or an OBD-II scan tool. Tari is neither. SOA will take away your powertrain warranty. :)

 

Nice sleuthing, BTW.

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Excellent.

 

I am very tempted to disconnect my Neutral Safety Switch lead (and ground it if necessary) and see if the problem persists.

 

My local dealer still wants to flash my ECM (which I'll let him, eventually). But SOA has *still* not officially acknowledged the problem nor the fix.

 

But if SOA is counting on some new ECM code to solve this problem, I think it's obvious they're simply attempting to write an algorithm that filters out this NSS noise.

 

However, that would be only a band-aid to what appears to be the real problem. Looking forward to those new switches arriving!!!

 

BTW, anyone know what other ECM functions (besides cruise) read the NSS position?

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When my car was in a couple months ago for stalling while coasting to a stop, one of the first things SOA had my dealer do was to replace my neutral safety switch. They said that apparently that switch plays a role in basic engine management, and I think they had some logging eveidence of noise coming from my switch.

 

That didn't fix my problem, and neither did replacing the front O2 sensor. Ultimately, the problem was due to a sticky throttle plate.

 

FWIW, I have never had my cruise control turn itself off, either on the old or new switch.

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Well, I managed to fix the issue by filing the copper washer thinner as mentioned on the other threads. The stock washer is about 0.08" thick, I filed it down to about 0.06". Went on the highway three times today and used cruise control for almost 30min and no failures.

 

I'll have the final confirmation in another week when I go on a longer trip.

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Well, I managed to fix the issue by filing the copper washer thinner as mentioned on the other threads. The stock washer is about 0.08" thick, I filed it down to about 0.06". Went on the highway three times today and used cruise control for almost 30min and no failures.

 

I'll have the final confirmation in another week when I go on a longer trip.

 

 

Excellent!

 

I can't believe Subaru Dealers/Mechanics can't figure this out themselves.

 

Are they not allowed to "modify" a factory part?

 

It's only a washer, my god!

 

Or are they allowed to remove and replace only?

 

Even if it repairs the vehicle for good?

 

Or could it be, being they are paid for warranty work, they'll just keep doing the same job, over and over, hoping the customer will just give up?

 

 

 

I really can't believe I was able to solve this problem within 20 minutes, (removing & replacing the switch twice!) while so many of us have gone through multiple dealer visits/repairs without a fix, or even a hope for a permanent fix.

 

 

 

 

 

I just received my new "direct-from-Japan" Neutral Switch this past Saturday.

 

New one 'looks" exactly like the old.

I haven't measured the new washer yet either.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Since I've now put over 2,500 miles since my "washer thinning", with just one (who knows why) failure,

 

I'm really in no rush to install the new switch after all.

 

 

 

I use Cruise Control everyday, and now more than ever "trying my best" to make it fail.

 

Haven't been able to do it yet.

 

So far - So good!

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

So, where is the neutral safety switch?

Read two threads about this and others have asked, but on one has told us.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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On the driver side of the transmission housing. If you follow the shifter linkage and see where it enters the transmission, it is just a few inches further up (as in towards the engine) from there.

 

You won't miss the fact that there are two wires attached to it.

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Oh, so it looks something like the back up light switch. I should be able to find it as soon as it warms up outside. Or may be during the next oil change.

 

Thanks,

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 4 months later...

Haven't fixed mine yet but the dealer said they have fixed a few by thinning the washer. They'll do mine next week when they rebuild the tranny under warrenty.

 

I think I'll down load AP before I take it in.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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  • 2 years later...
So "0" is in gear and "1" is neutral. Does the switch engage or disengage in neutral (is it normally open or closed)? Where I am going with this is by thining the washer, you would be pushing the switch plunger further toward what it may contact. That may make sense with the plunger tip wearing. I have no idea how this is supposed to work, is the switch plunger depressed in neutral or in gear?
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  • 2 years later...
Where is the neutral switch located, how do you get to it? My cruise control is on the fritz. I presume the issue comes from the switch plunger wearing (from going between neutral and other gears). How much does a new one cost?
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