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Roll Center Kit needed with Pinks?


mad99

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How beneficial or necessary is the Whiteline Roll Center Kit when running pinks? I figure I might as well install the RCK and springs at the same time.

 

Anything else I should install at the same time? Steering rack bushings?

 

Any impressions/experience appreciated.

 

Setup:

JDM GT Pink springs

USDM specB Bilsteins

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I don't think you would see much benefit for only the slight drop pinks give. Steering rack bushings are a nice upgrade. I am looking to do those next. I have been running pinks on Bilsteins for a couple years now and the travel and roll center is good with the stock mounts. Get some camber bolts when you install the springs. You will get some extra adjustability and camber bolts are cheap
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Thanks for the tip.

 

Anybody know if the RCK and bump steer kit eliminate the need for camber bolts?

 

I forgot to mention the goal for the suspension:

 

Improved street performance, better body control, slight drop for looks.

Daily driver, no track use.

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Right, I don't want crazy camber, I just want to maintain standard alignment specifications with the slight drop from pinks.

 

Do people recommend camber bolts just to maintain stock camber with a less than 1" drop?

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Depends on how aggressively you drive and you gain a little negative camber when you lower the front of the car. I ran -1.3 degrees up front full-time on the street (even in winter) and it was fine. Now I run -1.9 and tire wear is fine but I do drive "spiritedly". :lol: That's with camber bolts and pink springs. No camber plates yet. I will back off the camber for winter since I should have better grip in the snow with a flatter alignment

 

 

Also I'm running offset control arm bushings which give about .5 degrees of caster so I can afford to run a little less static camber.

Considering an alignment is $70-$100, a $30 set of camber bolts will help you hit the range you want instead of having to pay for two alignments.

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Thanks for the tip.

 

Anybody know if the RCK and bump steer kit eliminate the need for camber bolts?

 

I forgot to mention the goal for the suspension:

 

Improved street performance, better body control, slight drop for looks.

Daily driver, no track use.

 

The RCK eliminates the need for camber bolts. The car will track better, be less twitchy on bumps and will be better on tires. :)

 

A car with a lot a negative camber may look neat, but it has nothing to do with how many g's it can generate in a corner, let alone what happens when the suspension is under load, or no load.

 

Go with the RCK:)

"Belief does not make truth. Evidence makes truth. And belief does not make evidence."
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Thanks for all the helpful advice! But now I'm seeing different opinions regarding RCK and camber bolts.

 

I have read about RCK problems, but I thought Whiteline resolved the issue?

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A car with a lot a negative camber may look neat, but it has nothing to do with how many g's it can generate in a corner, let alone what happens when the suspension is under load, or no load.

 

Go with the RCK:)

 

it does on a subaru. He'll be lucky to get much over a degree of negative camber without bolts.

 

Get the RCA and bolts and max out the bolts.

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fyi my stock bolts maxed out at -1.75 degrees in the front.

 

I've also tracked the car twice with the revised Whiteline kit and the bj hasn't budged - so I think they've resolved the issue discussed on nasioc.

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