Replacing the Turbo Oil Feed Pipe 09 LGT

I am about to replace the right-side oil pipe that feeds the turbo and the AVCS. I plan to remove the turbo and I have all the gaskets / o-rings/etc needed to remove and replace.

 

It dawned on me that I might need to remove the intake manifold to do the job.

 

Any idea if I need to remove the intake (and anything else for that matter).?

 

Thanks

Some where in my thread you should be able to find some pictures that may give you an idea. I took about 80 pictures during the rebuild, but only posted a few choice ones.

 

I can't post them from work but I can take a look tonight from home and may be find better ones.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

 

You can just remove the 4 bolts on each side that hold the TVG's to the heads and left the manifold. I do remember putting that line on first when I started to re-assemble the engine.

 

I may have missed something, but why are you replacing the hole line ?

Some where in my thread you should be able to find some pictures that may give you an idea. I took about 80 pictures during the rebuild, but only posted a few choice ones.

 

I can't post them from work but I can take a look tonight from home and may be find better ones.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/got-some-new-stuff-engine-r-r-184106.html

 

You can just remove the 4 bolts on each side that hold the TVG's to the heads and left the manifold. I do remember putting that line on first when I started to re-assemble the engine.

 

I may have missed something, but why are you replacing the hole line ?

 

I decided to hedge my bets and buy the entire line. Unfortunately I am unable to find the leak and am just making an educated guess that since this is the only external oil source....it must be the problem. The small pipe on the top of the turbo is not leaking...I think it is the big one and leaking at the spot where the pipe picks up oil from the head.

 

What scares me the most is it might be a head gasket, but as hard as I tries I could not find the leak.

 

So I have a lot more parts than I need in the hops of GUARANTEEING that I get it apart and together the same day.

 

I have more money than time :-)

So you have the 2 copper crush washers that fit the banjo bolt coming off the head. May be even try replacing the banjo bolt at the same time as the crush washer. Make you leave the filter out, but I think you have a 07 so it's not there anyways.

 

Unless someone has really bent that line, it should not be leaking.

 

Did you see where I used bolts replace the studs in the up pipe to trubo? The guy's at the parts counter at the dealership gave them to me.

 

Do you have anti-seize compund and PB Blaster ?

 

Do you have the service manual ? just in case ?

So you have the 2 copper crush washers that fit the banjo bolt coming off the head. May be even try replacing the banjo bolt at the same time as the crush washer. Make you leave the filter out, but I think you have a 07 so it's not there anyways.

 

Unless someone has really bent that line, it should not be leaking.

 

Did you see where I used bolts replace the studs in the up pipe to trubo? The guy's at the parts counter at the dealership gave them to me.

 

Do you have anti-seize compund and PB Blaster ?

 

Do you have the service manual ? just in case ?

 

I have all the gaskets, washers, o-rings needed.. Chemicals as well/ Already pulled the screen out of the Banjo bolt, and a recent acquaintance of mine gave me access to a service manual.

 

I started out thinking it was a head gasket, but there is oil on the rear of the cylinder head as high as the banjo for the water return. Maybe higher. I saw postings about the weld on the 'middle' banjo being a point of failure, but again this is guess work.

 

Blocked return maybe? If that is the case then I will need the gaskets and o-rings.

 

My plan is to remove the turbo by separating the flare fitting on the oil pipe and see if I can find the source. I'll have a head gasket in case that turns out to be the issue.

 

Any suggestions / pointers / gotcha's you can think of?

You may want to pick up a oil return line fromt he dealer or a piece of oil resistant hose from the auto parts store. I went with the oem oil return hose. It's just held on by two small spring type clamps.

 

Your leak is more likely the valve cover gasket. It's common on these.

 

Remember to check the turbo for shaft play.

 

The flare fitting on the tube off the turbo banjo to the oil feed line may be a pita to get off. In my pictures you may be able to see how rusty it is. I remove the banjo from the turbo and then I gently bent the the line up high enough so I could unscrew it from the fitting. The B nut will not spin on the tube. It's a double flare fitting. In case you wonder what you see when you remove it from the feed line.

 

Do you have a catless up pipe ? if not, it's a good time to install one.

 

Also as I said, get bolts to hold the turbo to the DP, it makes it so much easier to install the turbo with the oil return line on it and line up the intake hose at the same time. The studs make it a PITA to get both hoses on at the same time. You'll see when you install the turbo if you leave the studs in there.

I also did this on the engine stand the last time.

 

When I replaced the turbo last Aug I did while the studs where there, PITA.

 

 

If you need to replace the HG, you should look into replacing the timing belt kit too. HG's are not easy on these things.

He has an 09, it has a catless up pipe, BYRON.

 

 

take a picture of the oil leak. a headgasket or valve cover leak in an 09 is not likely given it's age. the turbo feed line could leak, and the feed banjo is underneath the inlet on the head, you may or may not have to lift the manifold up to remove the inlet.

You may want to pick up a oil return line fromt he dealer or a piece of oil resistant hose from the auto parts store. I went with the oem oil return hose. It's just held on by two small spring type clamps.

 

Your leak is more likely the valve cover gasket. It's common on these.

 

Remember to check the turbo for shaft play.

 

The flare fitting on the tube off the turbo banjo to the oil feed line may be a pita to get off. In my pictures you may be able to see how rusty it is. I remove the banjo from the turbo and then I gently bent the the line up high enough so I could unscrew it from the fitting. The B nut will not spin on the tube. It's a double flare fitting. In case you wonder what you see when you remove it from the feed line.

 

Do you have a catless up pipe ? if not, it's a good time to install one.

 

Also as I said, get bolts to hold the turbo to the DP, it makes it so much easier to install the turbo with the oil return line on it and line up the intake hose at the same time. The studs make it a PITA to get both hoses on at the same time. You'll see when you install the turbo if you leave the studs in there.

I also did this on the engine stand the last time.

 

When I replaced the turbo last Aug I did while the studs where there, PITA.

 

 

If you need to replace the HG, you should look into replacing the timing belt kit too. HG's are not easy on these things.

 

OK, I agree with you about the valve cover gasket. Another piece of data if that the oil loss rate seems more in line with a drip then with a hole in a pressurized line. Or it could be the oil return....same thing.

 

I wish I could see well enough to identify the source.

 

So this looks like the best plan....Start with the valve cover gasket and then go to the turbo / oil pipe.

 

When you said HG's are not wasy, did you mean valve cover gaskets?

 

Thanks for all the advice.

Thanks Chris, I see in the title of the post its a 09. I normally look in the avatar block for that info.

 

No I meant Head Gaskets are not easy. The valve cover gasket is fairly easy. Next question, how many miles on the engine ? is it close enough to replace the spark plugs while your down there.

 

Do you have a 17mm stubby box end ratchet wrench. Pick up a set from Harbor Fright. You'll be glad you did if you just need to tighten the banjo bolt.

Thanks Chris, I see in the title of the post its a 09. I normally look in the avatar block for that info.

 

No I meant Head Gaskets are not easy. The valve cover gasket is fairly easy. Next question, how many miles on the engine ? is it close enough to replace the spark plugs while your down there.

 

Do you have a 17mm stubby box end ratchet wrench. Pick up a set from Harbor Fright. You'll be glad you did if you just need to tighten the banjo bolt.

 

Just under 70k and I already have the plugs. And I'll get the stubby......

 

Thanks

Again, Byron, the banjo bolt is in a completely different location on 07+, the tools do not correspond. You're stuck in the 05-06 mentality.

 

If you plan on replacing the whole line, you need to remove the inlet.

I think the set was around $20.00. Those new box end ratchet wrenches are great.

 

I would tighten the banjo bolt first and see if that fixes the leak. Then check the b nut on the oil feed line.

 

Like Chris said the car is kind of new to be having a oil leak.

 

I'll have to look at my Spec B some day to see where things are.

 

Oh yea, now I see on page 1029 in the 09 manual the picture of where the banjo is.

Whew....long weekend :-)

 

I am planning to tackle this weekend. Regarding the Intake removal, you recommend that I remove bolts in the TGV and lift, but that will require the removal of injectors and rails etc. Can I leave the TGV and just get the manifold? If I do, will I have enough clearance to get at the oil feed?

 

I will see if the banjo bolt on the feed is loose before I remove ANYTHING. That would be a hoot if it was the problem....I would have extra parts but LOTS of extra time. I'd like that :-)

unbolt the manifold only, the tgv holds the fuel lines and those lines go under the inlet so leave them there

unbolt the manifold only, the tgv holds the fuel lines and those lines go under the inlet so leave them there

 

Best news I heard all day. Off to the dealer for the Throttle Body and Intake Manifiold gaskets.

 

Thanks

why do you need a throttle body gasket?

Just thought of another question......there is talk about replacing the studs in the up pipe with nuts & bolts. My dealer is not noted for his 'friendliness' although I will ask him what they use. But in case he lives up to his reputation....what length, size, material, grade are used?

Right the TB doesn't need to be removed, just the tmic. Leave the hose on the TB. I didn't even remove my TB when I rebuilt the engine.

 

You may want to think about removing the PS and Alternator and setting them aside to give you more clearance with the inlet hose.

 

You may also want to tighten the screw clamps on the fuel lines if you can.

 

 

Chris, are the fuel lines still bolted to the intake manifold on newer models ?

Just thought of another question......there is talk about replacing the studs in the up pipe with nuts & bolts. My dealer is not noted for his 'friendliness' although I will ask him what they use. But in case he lives up to his reputation....what length, size, material, grade are used?

 

My guy's just gave me some bolts like what is used to hold the big brackets on the short block for the AC compressor bracket. They should be 10mm X 1.25 about 1 inch long.

 

They'll have the washer built into the bolt heads. You can see them in that picture I posted in my R&R engine stuff.

There are a couple bolts from the lines to the manifold, on the right hand side. it MAY be better to remove the manifold with the tgv's, on second thought. he'll need to d/c the fuel lines by the brake booster

There are a couple bolts from the lines to the manifold, on the right hand side. it MAY be better to remove the manifold with the tgv's, on second thought. he'll need to d/c the fuel lines by the brake booster

 

Oh like I told paintpollzy to do the other week when he replaced his. IMO its cleaner to lift the hole assembly. But would like to hear from someone who removed the PS and Alternator to see if that made it easier.

 

trepetti, I think the bolt had 10.6 stamped into the heads.

 

 

Either way, it's going to be a PITA job with the current temps outside and humidity.

There are a couple bolts from the lines to the manifold, on the right hand side. it MAY be better to remove the manifold with the tgv's, on second thought. he'll need to d/c the fuel lines by the brake booster

 

So my 1st question here is.... 'Better' to remove TGV or 'Required'? I am thinking that doing so requires pulling the injectors meaning o-rings. Unless you are saying that I can leave the rails bolted to the TGV and remove the connection to the rail, thereby leaving the rails bolted to the TGVs.

the injectors and rails are bolted to the tgv's, so removing the tgv's and manifold means fuel rails come with them. the injectors dont come out.... have you looked at your tgvs? you can see that the rails are bolted to them as clear as day

the injectors and rails are bolted to the tgv's, so removing the tgv's and manifold means fuel rails come with them. the injectors dont come out.... have you looked at your tgvs? you can see that the rails are bolted to them as clear as day

 

Do you need the 2 special tools (1 for supply and 1 for return fuel line)?

no, you can pull the rubber lines off from the hard lines coming out of the firewall, look and you will see.