Removing Front Axles without removing the ball joint

I replaced rotors, pads, front half-shafts and all 4 wheel bearings on an 05 Outback XT and I thought some folks might benefit from the way that I ended up making room for the front knuckle to clear the half-shaft. Instead of removing the ball joint, I simply removed the front sway bar link and then the front pivot point of the lower A-arm. You also need to remove the sway bar link (a 14mm wench and 15mm socket do the job) and the tire rod end (you will probably need a new cotter pin) This gave me plenty of room to get the half shaft out and took almost no time.

 

From the follow-up post below - if the tie rod threads or castle nut threads get damaged, the size is M12x1.25 and a clean up tap and die will fix them - having a new set of castle nuts handy would not be a bad idea.

 

 

I am talking about the bolt that goes through #7 in the picture:

 

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/5567/frontsuspension.jpg

 

I hope this helps someone.

I've heard bad things about this.

(a 14mm wench and 15mm socket do the job)

 

I don't know what type of wenches they have out there, but she seems to tiny to be able to produce more torque.

Does seem to be an easier way to pop out the half-shaft, thanks for the heads up. Why exactly did the outback need all 4 new wheel bearings? That seems pretty severe....

I've heard bad things about this.

 

That's worth 1/2 of a You folks just dont' have the technique...

 

I don't know what type of wenches they have out there, but she seems to tiny to be able to produce more torque.

 

See above....

 

Does seem to be an easier way to pop out the half-shaft, thanks for the heads up. Why exactly did the outback need all 4 new wheel bearings? That seems pretty severe....

 

One bearing was bad and my friend is the type of person who replaces all of the bearings when one is bad.

 

 

We also installed new front half shafts (the boots were gone, new rotors, pads and calipers, all fluids and an AVO 380 turbo, Cobb up and downpipes and some other odds and ends

A follow up note - I did a clutch swap on a different Legacy yesterday and used the same technique to get the half shafts out (we wanted the transmission all of the way out of the car). The threads on the tie rod ends and castle nuts got a little disturbed but a quick clean up with a M12x1.25 tap and die solved the problem quickly. Treat the castle nuts and tie rods very gently or make sure you have that size tap and die handy or you will be sorry

All good info - appreciate the insight on the bolt/tie rod bunging and the preemptive preparation suggestions.

hmmmm

I had help from a rally mechanic and we got the half-shaft out by just unbolting the strut from the knuckle. I guess the downside of this method is that you might need an alignment, but we marked the bolts and reinstalled. We did hook the spring on the seal and now the transmission leaks a little so we'll have to do it all again to replace the seal. Perhaps your method (or removing the ball joint) makes this result less likely.

The way I am talking about will not have any effect on the alignment.

I wish I had a friend like you Rao. I have a turbo of the month 68hta ready to swap in..

I knew he's mod that OB eventually. Did the 380 come out of John's car?

I wish I had a friend like you Rao. I have a turbo of the month 68hta ready to swap in..

 

Me too I have been doing a lot of work on cars that aren't mine (and cars that are )

 

 

I knew he's mod that OB eventually. Did the 380 come out of John's car?

 

He bought most of John's stuff. We did all of the maintenance stuff that you could imagine and have all of the go fast parts installed. I expect we will be changing his clutch too very soon.

He bought most of John's stuff. We did all of the maintenance stuff that you could imagine and have all of the go fast parts installed. I expect we will be changing his clutch too very soon.

Let me know when the Connecticut facility's clutch swap fees hit their lowest level in years. It sounds like the cool thing to do when it's cold.

You like to watch

 

or is yours on the way out?

You like to watch

 

or is yours on the way out?

I've been nursing mine for two years, just replaced the wife's two months ago.

If you don't have an impact gun to remove the crown nut on the tie rod end, then simply remove the upper 14mm bolt on the knuckle. All you need is a rubber mallet to knock the tie rod out. Installation is much easier than removal.

Thanks rao! Did this over the weekend that cotter pin is a PITA

indeed, the cotter pin was a pain.

i have gear oil leaking on the floor i raised the car and checked, it looks like it's coming from where the axles go into the transmission. I've been putting this off for awhile so it's pretty messy under there i will clean it and then check again to get a better idea.

Any thoughts?

 

 

Rob, Ryan how's everything going good i hope all's well here just being a bum.

You boys need to stop by and see how the poor people live.

Sounds like the seal, which is not that hard to replace.

 

If you want a hand fixing it let me know.

Sounds like the seal, which is not that hard to replace.

 

If you want a hand fixing it let me know.

 

Help would be most appreciated.

 

I cleaned it up and will check it again tomorrow but i believe you are correct about the seal the left side seems to be the issue. I would guess replacing both sides would be the smart thing to do. I will try and pick up a set of axle seals tomorrow [not sure they even have them].

 

Next week i can work around any schedule you want. My question is where would you like to do this? My garage on our backs or Steve's standing up. I would be more than happy to rent his lift and clean up when finished. I will also supply breakfast/lunch for the three of us.

 

Thanks, let me know.

I'll send you a PM.

seal indeed.

I waited to make sure the seals were not leaking before i thank Rob for his help and guidance with the R and R of the axle seals on wednesday.

Thank you, lunch is on me next time.