Removing crank sprocket on 2.5 DOHC engine?

It doesn't look like there are any threads in the two holes in the sprocket to use a standard puller on it. And there isn't enough room to get a claw type behind the sprocket. How do you get this sprocket off so I can install a new seal behind it? Thanks for any hints or tips.

 

Tom

Very carefully. It does just pull straight off.

Wow, you're right, thanks. I needed to persuade it a little but once it started it came along fine. The previous owner must have had a badly leaking front seal because there is some mighty tenacious RTV smeared all over the front of the seal and its housing. Thanks Mweiner2

 

Tom

Well shoot, the timing set doesn't include a front seal and my neighborhood Orielly's doesn't have one in stock. Guess it's off to the stealership err I mean dealership tomorrow.

 

Tom

That sucks. Every timing kit I have ordered comes with one.

maybe you should also get the oil pump o-ring and somr RTV to reseal the oil pump while you are at it.

Is that an issue with these engines, John? I have it this far apart, it wouldn't be that much more work.

 

Tom

ijust did this job on a 2.2. get the o ring and seal up the oil pump while youre in there. you dont want to do that again a few months down the road.

 

for people with the same stuck crank sprocket issue, i had to get a valve spring tool and take the inner guide off and use it as a puller to get mine off. there was so much gook and muck in there, it had no chance at sliding off without some help.

it can be, look for loose screws on the backing plate on the back side of the pump.

 

the o-ring is cheap, RTV about $6 ? and it will take about an hour depending on how hard it is to clean up the old sealant.

 

don't use too much new, you don't want a blob to squeeze inside and float around your lubricating system.

Mine slide right off easy. My oil pump was resealed before and it was a terrible job so im going to redo that with a new o-ring.

Okay, you guys talked me into it. Got the rear main seal, an oil oring and another oring for a total of 18.18 out the door.

 

Tom

wait, stop, NOT the rear main seal. they do not leak. not very often any way. and when they do it is usually because someone replaced it incorrectly. leave the rear main seal alone.

 

how did we jump to the rear of the engine?

 

you want to do the front crank seal, the oil pump o-ring and re-seal the oil pumnp. plus what ever else you need to do like the cam seals, timing belt , timing idler pulleys / tensioner, and water pump. (i can't remember where we started this thread.)

Oh, okay. When I take the flex plate off to check for leakage at the crank vent cover, I will check for leakage at the rear main seal also. If it's not leaking, I will leave it.

 

Thanks for the heads-up, John E and Offroad John.

 

Tom

JohnEgg,

 

Good call on the oil pump backing plate. Two of the screws had backed out, two were finger tight and the remaining screws wouldn't come out without a few taps to the screwdriver handle with a hammer. Gearrotor vanes look okay, no deep scoring.

 

I could only find one O-ring on the back side so I am assuming that this other O-ring I got from the dealer is for the bypass plunger maybe?

 

I also see where this Subie oil pump has provisions for an add-on oil cooler or additional oil filter. Coolio. Even though I am not having overheating problems in this AZ heat with the AC on, it's good to know it will be easy to add a cooler later. Again, thanks for the heads up on those backing plate screws. I will add a drop of blue loctite when re-assembling.

 

Tom

Hmmm, there wasn't any RTV residue on the oil pump to backing plate surface. Can I assume that it is a machined finish and doesn't need it? The pump to block surface had RTV but not this one.

 

Tom

That is your oil pick up, and you want that sealed properly. IIRC it does not come with the headgasket set, but the dealer has them for a few bucks.

No, it's not the oil pickup with the screen. This is a tube that is welded into the corner of the oil pan. It sticks up above the oil pan's mounting surface maybe by 1/4", just enough to go into the hole in the block. It had a rubber ring on it.

 

Tom

Well there was so much crud all over the back half, under the flex plate, that I can't tell if it was the rear main seal or the crankcase vent cover. It sorta looks like it was more "runny" on the crankcase vent side so I just cleaned it all off, took off the crankcase vent cover, cleaned it all up, applied some copper RTV and replaced it. It was the black plastic type, not the aluminum type.

 

I'll leave the existing rear seal as is for now.

Thanks.

 

Tom