Reg Break-in, Oil change and Additives in oil for break-in

I have about 500 miles on my new LGT and I am loving it. I don't mind changing the oil now (regular) and then switch to synthetic at 3000 or 5000 miles (haven't decided yet). Question is, are there any special factory added additives in the engine oil that is intended for the break-in process? Changing the oil too quickly could negate this purpose.

I have an 04 Forester XT and I remember reading something like this in the NASIOC forums when I was wanting to change the oil at 1000 miles for the FXT.

I live in the NW (Portland, OR) and I have been using Mobil 1 5/30 for the FXT. Is it ok to go for the same grade/type synthetic oil for the LGT?

 

No soap/water in the intercooler type of answers please

Thanks.

You'll probably get 2 categories of replies: The first school says no synthetic til 5000 or 10000, The second says go with synthetic now. I own 3 cars, used Mobil 1 from the first change (around 500 miles for 2 cars, my other got Mobil 1 as part of the dealer's delivery prep) and none burn oil or have other problems. No special additives either, what could you add to one of the best lubricants on earth?

I have just discussed this very issue with my Subaru tech at the dealership....This guy works on all the local rally cars and is a Subaru nut like us. He says that Subaru stopped putting "Special" break-in oil in the cars a few years ago (My 2002 RS had it for sure) and recommends changing the oil at 2500 Km and then again at every 5000 Km regardless of what type of oil you use. He says "No matter" when you change to synthetic....up to you.

 

I posed the same question to Subaru Canada and this is their answer from a week ago.

 

Mr. Munro,

 

Thank your for contacting Subaru Canada, Inc.

 

Your questions regarding synthetic oil are very common. Although we have approached this matter with our parent company Fuji Heavy Industries, in Japan they have neither endorsed nor discouraged the use of synthetic oil.

 

Under most driving conditions it is not necessary but it is actually a better oil and may help increase engine life, fuel economy and improve engine starting (especially in winter) as well as keeping the engine cool (especially in summer). The only catch is that once you have started to use synthetic, you must continue to do so. You cannot switch back and forth since engine oil seals react differently to petroleum based and synthetic oils, changing from one to the other too many times may result is oil seepage past the engine oil seals. It is also important to note that regular oil changes as indicated in your warranty manual must be maintained; even with synthetic oils.

 

We trust this information is helpful.

 

Sincerely,

 

 

Christina Morris

Senior Consumer Support Representative

After Sales

1-800-894-4212

www.subaru.ca

Tons of info out there regarding synth vs. dino, some accurate, some not. Plenty of OMT (old mechanics tales) out there as well. My .02: Synths are great oils, but so are the SM/GF-4 dinos. For 3k oil changes, IMO synth is a waste of $.

 

FWIW I switched to M1 at 6k, switched back to dino at 21k, now at 34k with no issues and much less oil consumption than I had with the M1. Seems like there are a lot of differing experiences with M1. Some report high oil consumption, some don't. Some report higher engine noise with M1, some don't. A wealth of information can be had in the forums at http://bobistheoilguy.com

.....I live in the NW (Portland, OR) and I have been using Mobil 1 5/30 for the FXT. Is it ok to go for the same grade/type synthetic oil for the LGT?..............

 

Yes.

Turbos are definitely different. They love fresh oil, semi-syn at least. Based on my VW and Saab experience. My 06 Leg 2.5i will be two months old in a few days, but only has 1500 miles on it. My dealer doesn't want to see the car until 3750 miles, period. I drive mostly short trips, as in less than 4 miles. Sometimes 2 miles. Some long trips on weekends. It pains me to have this old oil in my car, but they don't wanna change it. I can't change it myself, so I am thinking of, GASP, buying a filter and gasket from the dealer, and taking it to a quick change type place.

Why can you not change it yourself?

 

Drain, replace filter, replace drain plug, refill. How difficult is that? even if you have to borrow someone's driveway to do it in...

 

I'd be very wary of taking to to any spee-D-Lube. they are probably rated on time, and probably don't take a lot of care. Hate for a brand new car to get ruined by having a low oil level. or an oil leak due to a loose or forgotten plug/filter.

 

Maybe you'd do OK, but the risk is there, even with a dealer. It kills me that the dealer treats you so badly. It is under warranty. Even if you have to pay for an out-of-schedule oil change at an earlier point than they recommend...

 

then again, I may be nuts. I do EVERY oil change myself, and most if not all regular maintenance and repairs.

 

A dealer telling me not to come back until ____ is a dealer telling me never to come back. And I'd take them up on it. That is BS.

I'd avoid 'Iffy lube' like the plaque. I've heard too many horror stories.

I agree with you. I would prefer the dealer did it. That way its in the system and stuff. But can I say "CHANGE THE OIL!" and make them do it, even if they say it shouldn't be changed? I mean, why wouldn't they want me to change it before 3750, which on my car will be 6 months after purchase? Unless they think its a break-in issue.

 

I would love to do it myself, but I know my limits. I can replace bulbs, filters (pollen and air) and a few miscellaneous interior parts, but fluids and gaskets and hoses and belts and stuff? I would ruin my new car way before the people at Jiffy Lube. I don't trust myself.

If you're mechanically inclined enough to replace bulbs, filters, etc. you can probably handle an oil change just fine. 1 bolt (oil pan drain plug), 1 filter replacement (screw the old one off, screw the new one on, I don't know if the 2.5i has the undercover the 2.5 GT's have), refill crankcase with oil (I'm not sure of the 2.5i oil capacity).

chances are, if you can change a bulb or an air filter, you can change the oil. I might not say that about the trans or diff fluids, flushing the cooling system, or things that are a little bit more technical, but oil is easy. A chimp can change oil... but I might not want one to... too much like a quick-lube employee

 

Directions for nearly ANY car/light truck, motorcycle, or yard equipment. (This looks long, only because I have included a lot of detail, and I am notoriously long winded...)

 

If you can, do the oil change when the existing oil is warm or cool, as it will still have contaminants dissolved in it, which will then be flushed with the oil. Cold oil can let particles settle out of it, and hot oil can burn/scald you as you perform the oil-change. If you can touch parts under the hood (NOT THE TURBO HEAT SHEILD, or exhaust, which can stay hotter longer.) then chances are the engine has cooled enough to work with.

 

get the car into a position (ramps, jack stands, or even pulled up to the high side of a curb or something, so that you can lay face up under the front of the car.)

 

Chock the wheels, and set the e-brake. Open the hood, and pop the dipstick up a bit to unseal it. (allows air to replace the oil in the engine, lets it drain a tad bit faster, and is a reminder that the engine has no oil in it, so not to try and start it.

 

Open any covers under the drain plug in the oil pan. (not the transmission pan, which is further back...) and under the oil filter

 

with a pan under the plug, (in such a way that it will catch the flow outward from the plug location, if it is not straight downward) loosen the plug with a socket or proper size wrench. Don't bung up the flats with a crescent or off-size wrench.

 

Grab the plug, and let the oil drain. Wipe your hands and the oil plug off. Replace the gasket/washer around the plug, if necessary.

 

once the oil has stopped flowing into the catch pan, (engine is emptied of oil) you can twist off the old oil filter and set it in the catch pan.

 

Take the new oil filter, and either with new oil, or a dab of old oil, moisten the seal around the seat. Just so that it isn't dry... Then fill the oil filter with new engine oil to near the top. it might swallow more than you think... Then screw the new oil filter on to the fitting where the old one was. Torque to "hand tight" where you can't spin the filter with your hand any longer. (note it may not be possible to fill the oil filter with new oil if the oil filter mounts horizontally or downward... then just install it after moistening the seal)

 

Once the oil filter is on, re-install the drain plug to wrench tight with a standard rachet or wrench. No need to break it, just well tight is fine.

 

Stand up to work in the top side of the engine bay.

 

Unscrew the oil filler cap. Add (via a funnel) the prescribed amount of recommended grade of motor oil for climate, and useage. (perhaps a grade thinner for easier winter/cold starts)

 

Once you approach the prescribed amount, check the dipstick level, (keep in mind that if the car is significantly raised on ramps or jacks, the oil level may not read as accurately as usual)

 

If you see oil on the dipstick, you should be able to close the oil cap, and insert the dipstick completely before the next step.

 

(you may at this time choose to remove the catch pan, and check for under-car leaks... re-tighten plug or filter if necessary... just as a double check precaution)

 

Carefully start the engine for a few seconds (it has some oil in it, it will be fine) and let it idle and prime the oiling system. no need to rev or run the car more than a few seconds up to a minute or two. This will fill the oil filter if not done previously due to it being horizontal or downard installed, will also fill turbo supply lines and the rest of the oiling system.

 

(NOTE: some cars recommend priming the oil system by disconnecting the ignition lead, and cranking the engine with the starter, not fully starting the engine... The owner's manual should give instructions on how to disconnect and reconnect the ignition lead if it recommends doing so... Otherwise starting the engine for a short time should not be a problem. Be sure those caps are closed, though, unless you want some oil splatter.)

 

You may choose to drive the car off the ramps at this point while the engine is running. make sure everything is cleared from under the car, unchock the wheels and release the brake, and slowly back the car down.

 

Then shut the engine off.

 

Take the car off jackstands if not usng ramps... Don't want to do that with the engine running on the off chance it could be in gear, or something.

 

give the engine time to drain the oil back into the pan (oil filter may or may not remain filled, by design.) After a short time, and before driving the car on the road, check the oil level again, now hopefully in a relatively level position, should give you a more accurate reading. Wipe dipstick off the first time, and re-insert and pull again for a good reading.

 

Add oil at this point, if necessary. Most dipstics have a range between full and 1-quart low. and add a fraction of a quart as dictated.

 

If you have drastically over-filled, you may try to loosen the oilpan drain plug to the point that oil slowly drains into a clean container, but the plug is not fully removed, and then re-tighten and wipe the plug head clean, and re-check and re-fill. The new oil in the clean container can be used to "top-up".

 

Naturally it is better to fill a bit at a time to approach the full mark, than to have to try to drain a fraction, and re-try.

Usually I put in the recommended ammount minus half a quart, and save that half a quart to "top up" as the last step, so not to over-fill.

 

Once the dipstick shows full, double check all caps closed, perhaps glance under the car to make sure the catch pan or any tools are clear, and triple check no leaks.

 

Proceed to drive, the oil change is finished. You may want to check air pressure in the tires, and check the oil again at the next gas stop, and periodically after that...

 

It really isn't that hard. Have a freind or relative who has changed oil before keep an eye on things the first time, if that would make you more comfortable not to forget any steps... Give a brew and a chair, and tell them to relax, watch, and remind you if you forget anything...

 

After you do it once, you'll feel much better, and more accomplished, and more confident to do it the next time. Just always make sure that the car is jacked or ramped safely, and wheel-chocked, so it can't roll. maintenance tasks can be re-done if necessary, the most important thing is your safety.

 

Plan on part of an afternoon for this, the first time, so you can take your time and become familiar, and don't feel rushed. Later, it may only take an hour or two. Some dealers use vacuum pumps and things to suck the old oil out very quickly, which speeds things up even more for them.

 

Speaking of which, both my vehicles are coming due for this...

When I switched to Mobil 1 in my 03 Legacy my oil consumption increased quite a bit.

IWanna,

 

how do you dispose of the oil you've just replaced?

I collect mine in a dedicated 5 gallon gas can. When it is full, I take it to Autozone and dump it in their large collection container.

 

BTW, the manual, at least for the LGT specifically says 3,000 miles for the first oil change, not 3,750. 3,750 is the severe service interval after the first change. That said, I just changed mine for the first time last weekend with 950 miles on the clock. I'll stick with Dino oil until 6K miles then switch to Mobil 1.

I have three oil catch pans that close with caps. they are available at most auto parts stores. I just take them to the autoparts store and add it to their recycle/disposal drums.

 

Most service stations or auto parts stores either collect used oil, or know who does in your community.

 

My dad does the same thing with and old 55-gal oil drum of his own. He/mom, and my brother/wife have many more cars, though. Nine total. That is a lot of oil to be changed.

 

If someone in your area has an oil burning furnace for heating their shop or garage, they will sometimes take old oil as fuel. Maybe someday I'll have a nice enough garage to want to work in the winter, and heat with an oil burner...

I'd avoid 'Iffy lube' like the plaque. I've heard too many horror stories.

 

I'm not sure how true this is, but I heard that the reason Subaru changed the style of the transmission drain bolt was due to places like this draining the tranny thinking it's engine oil, adding 5 qts of motor oil and sending people on their way. Speeding down the road w/ almost 10 qts of oil and no tranny fluid.

or worse yet, 5 quarts or motor oil in the trans, and NONE in the crank case.

 

The car would probably get about a mile, and then: BANG, pffft. Done.