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Rear Camber Adjustment- Seeking Help with Rubbing Tires


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Hello,

 

I am having rubbing issues on the inside rear wheel well after switching to stock 2011 WRX wheels (17x8 +53) on an Outback XT lowered on Spec.B wagon Bilsteins. I put some 3mm spacers in to try to gain some clearance, but it does not seem to be enough. I am not comfortable using more spacer than that as I will not be able to get enough turns on the lug nuts.

 

So, I need to give some adjustability to the rear camber. I am looking at two options:

 

Whiteline Camber Bushings (KCA 399)

Megan Racing Upper Control Arms (MRS-SU-0511-02)

 

The Whiteline bushings are very inexpensive, but appear to be much harder to install, I would probably have to get a shop to do it since I have limited tools where I am.

 

The Megan UCAs are more expensive, but I have found a good price on them (~$40 off), and they seem to be much easier to install. I could possibly do it myself, or it would be much cheaper at a shop. I also already have Megan rear LCAs so that may work better as a system.

 

Does anyone have any experience with either of these or can give advice in either direction? Or is there a different direction I should go altogether?

 

Thanks!

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Whiteline KTA124 kit provides full adjustability, just do it.

 

That said, OP you are providing wheel specs and suspension spec (although you aren't specific on what springs you are running), BUT NO TIRE SIZES. Seriously, what do you expect to get in terms of feedback? You could have 215/45/r17s, or you could be running 245/55/17s. HUGE DIFFERENCE.

 

Post your specs. Tire specs are what matter--THAT is what's rubbing, not your wheels.

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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BarManBean- so sorry that completely slipped my mind. The tires did not rub until I switched them from the stock wheels to the 17x8 so that is why that was what I was thinking about.

 

Tires are 225/50/17 and the car is on Bilsteins with spec.b springs in the rear and a 3/8 spacer. I was told they were wagon springs, but they could be from a sedan. I am not sure how to tell.

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Sorry for jumping in on your thread!

Barmanbean, is Whiteline KTA124 kit going to do anything for me on a daily that will never be tracked? I would love to get it but if it's just going to give me the same as new bushings with no daily benefit I will save $ and get bushings...thank you for your help

 

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

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BarManBean- so sorry that completely slipped my mind. The tires did not rub until I switched them from the stock wheels to the 17x8 so that is why that was what I was thinking about.

 

Tires are 225/50/17 and the car is on Bilsteins with spec.b springs in the rear and a 3/8 spacer. I was told they were wagon springs, but they could be from a sedan. I am not sure how to tell.

 

You shouldn't be rubbing on stock springs with 225/50r17's and any stock subaru wheels. Something sounds pretty screwed up.

 

Sorry for jumping in on your thread!

Barmanbean, is Whiteline KTA124 kit going to do anything for me on a daily that will never be tracked? I would love to get it but if it's just going to give me the same as new bushings with no daily benefit I will save $ and get bushings...thank you for your help

 

Sent from my 0PJA2 using Tapatalk

 

Don't be sorry, just start your own thread :spin:

"Bullet-proof" your OEM TMIC! <<Buy your kit here>>

 

Not currently in stock :(

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You shouldn't be rubbing on stock springs with 225/50r17's and any stock subaru wheels. Something sounds pretty screwed up.

 

The rubbing is only very slight but it is there. Less negative camber in the rear would solve it no problem. I am hesitant to use the KTA 124, because as I said, I already have Megan rear LCA.

 

I understand that camber affects toe in these cars. Does less negative camber decrease toe out, or is it the other way around? Or is that just nonsense I heard from someone else?

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The way the rear suspension is designed, with increased compression, you have both increase neg camber and toe-in. That's why you get both adjustment at the same time with the factory adjustment bolt.

 

You need both Upper and lower control arms to get full adjustment, just get the Megan UCA's and be done with it.

 

FYI, I had the same problems with the 2011 WRX wheels - they are wider (8") than other subaru wheels, while still maintaining the same offset. I had the inner wheel weights knocking on the inside wheelwell when I had rear passengers. If you're keeping this particular wheel setup, a cheaper alternative is to just get 3mm wheel spacers in the rear.

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I already put on 3mm spacers and they are still rubbing, but only very slightly, and only with passengers in the rear. Glad I am not the only one that has experienced this.

 

I called Megan and the upper control arms are out of stock and they don't know when they will be back in stock. I went ahead and ordered the KCA399 bushings, got them in today. They should provide enough adjustment. Now I just need to figure out how to install them. I don't really have access to a press, and the tread that details how to do it has no pictures anymore because of Photobucket.

 

If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

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I already put on 3mm spacers and they are still rubbing, but only very slightly, and only with passengers in the rear. Glad I am not the only one that has experienced this.

 

I called Megan and the upper control arms are out of stock and they don't know when they will be back in stock. I went ahead and ordered the KCA399 bushings, got them in today. They should provide enough adjustment. Now I just need to figure out how to install them. I don't really have access to a press, and the tread that details how to do it has no pictures anymore because of Photobucket.

 

If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

 

Borrow the balljoint remover from Autozone (they put a small refundable deposit when you borrow the tool) and use that to press out your old bushing. That's exactly how I did mine.

 

Looks like this: 451197d1501528094-balljoint-replacment-autozone-free-rentals-27023-27164-1.jpg

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I already put on 3mm spacers and they are still rubbing, but only very slightly, and only with passengers in the rear. Glad I am not the only one that has experienced this.

 

I called Megan and the upper control arms are out of stock and they don't know when they will be back in stock. I went ahead and ordered the KCA399 bushings, got them in today. They should provide enough adjustment. Now I just need to figure out how to install them. I don't really have access to a press, and the tread that details how to do it has no pictures anymore because of Photobucket.

 

If anyone could point me in the right direction that would be great.

 

Borrow the balljoint remover from Autozone (they put a small refundable deposit when you borrow the tool) and use that to press out your old bushing. That's exactly how I did mine.

 

Looks like this: 451197d1501528094-balljoint-replacment-autozone-free-rentals-27023-27164-1.jpg

 

 

An alternative to all of this, and I suggest this with extreme caution and only to those confident enough: You can burn out the rubber bushing, and then use a hacksaw blade to notch the sleeve in 3-4 spots, then it'll chip right out with a hammer and chisel.Reason for extreme caution: it's real easy to be a derp and cut into your control arm... don't do that.

 

Also... if you get the KCA399 and the KTA124 you can use the camber adjustment bushings on the upper control arms to "push" the trailing arm out further, and still adjust camber an toe with the arms. Then you can put 245/45's on WRX wheels and track it without any rub! ;)

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Also... if you get the KCA399 and the KTA124 you can use the camber adjustment bushings on the upper control arms to "push" the trailing arm out further, and still adjust camber an toe with the arms. Then you can put 245/45's on WRX wheels and track it without any rub! ;)

 

That's the size I'd like to go with eventually, but the tires I have right now still have plenty of tread left so I'm not in a hurry to replace them. For now I just want to get less negative camber in the rear so that I don't have to worry about rubbing, and hopefully that'll improve handling a little too.

 

Someone in a Facebook group for the local car club said that he uses an appropriately sized hole drill bit to drill out the bushing and then a hacksaw blade to clean it up. Has anyone on here ever heard of doing it like that?

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Yes, but it requires drilling about a dozen holes in the rubber portion, then cutting off the metal sleeve.

 

TBH, the balljoint remover took me all of 10 minutes to do both bushings - Way easier than trying to burn or drill the bushing out.

 

what he said^

 

I do it because my closes parts store never has that damn ball joint tool in stock.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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None of the local parts stores have ball joint presses in stock, so I'm thinking about drilling them out. A local guy that has a shop with a lift offered to help with that so I'm thinking about going that direction. I really appreciate the help.

 

 

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