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Racer X (itsme) FMIC install


itsme

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Hi, all I'm still here. The reason the pictures are down is Photobucket. After being free for 7+ years they decided to charge for pictures on 3 party sites. I was thinking they would start at $100, maybe $200. Nope they shoot straight to $400 a year. So, I got off my butt, and made install instruction on my website. Racerxengineering.com. It's updated to the latest version of the kit and fixed all the grammatical errors and confusing language. (I hope. LOL) I'm going into my 8th year and thanks for all the support over the years. I will still be around to answer questions. Have a great day

 

Bryan

 

6/12/10 update: The kits are now in stock and ready to ship. No waiting for GBs. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthrea...html?p=2983710 PM me if you want one. Bryan

5/27/10 update I have more kits ready to ship the week of June 6. If you are interested let me know. Here is a link to a '08+ WRX. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1989627 and I'm now working on a kit that will fit '08+ STi's and LGTs with STI swaps. It's done. Bryan

 

Update: I just started a new GB http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2838893#post2838893

First, you have to take off your bumper skin. Put you car on ramps or jack stands to give you more room. You have to move this sensor or it will IC. We tie wraped it behind the bracket. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060222.jpg Then remove your factory FMIC and even this black hose. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060225.jpg

 

It should look like this.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060226.jpg

Next, you want to put on the 2.75"to 2.5" coupler. The 81/73 t-clamp goes on the 2.75" end connected TB like this

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060228.jpg

Get the "j" shaped pipe with the BOV flange and install it into the coupler on the TB you will need the 75/67 t-clamp here.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060230.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060232.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060231.jpg

You will have to see which work the best for you. If you want to go under, over, or thur the fuel lines with the "J" pipe.

You will have to take off the lower black plastic tray. You will have to cut off the ends and it will look pretty much like this. You have to trim it for the pipes to clear. If you ever go back to stock this will be hidden by your bumper skin. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060236.jpg

The tray is held on by 4 bolts. Since you cut the ends of the tray you don't use the threaded welded nuts on the outside. I would recommend you trim the thin sheet metal the holds the welded on nuts. It's a very thin piece of metal in front of the seam and a 1" wide. You can use a hack saw, pliers, tin snips, etc.. to remove. This will help the pipes fit up higher. Now get this 2.5" pipe. This is also the pipe you can cut on the straight section near the top to give extra clearance for the taller batteries. Try it first. Then cut if needed. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060234.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060235.jpg

 

update: If you have the V.3 kit this pipe is already in 2 pcs.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060583.jpg

you connect the 2pcs with the included hump hose like this.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060586.jpg

With this pipe you go from the bottom on the driver side. Go up while twisting. It will clear the overflow tank. You have to get the pipe over this seam weld lip. The pipe goes on the inside of the tow hooks. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060237.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060240.jpg

Up top it should look like this. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060239.jpg

Now you need a 2.5" coupler and two more 75/67 t-clamps. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060244.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060243.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060251.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060252.jpg

The pipes should be on the inside of the tow hooks. Now put the trimmed black plastic tray back on and the 2 bolts that are left. Now take all the bolts off the bumper support (8x12mm and 2x10mm on a '08). Now put the IC behind the bumper beam on top of the black plastic tray. You will need a 2.5" and 2 75/67 to connect the driver side pipes to the IC.

Edited by itsme
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Now the pass. side You will need this 2.25" pipe http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060248.jpghttp://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060249.jpg and the 2.5" to 2.25" coupler along with a 75/67 and 68/60 t-clamp. You will send this pipe from the bottom also. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060253.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060255.jpg

With the latest update the install changes a bit. All you need to do is bend up or remove the tab that holds the wire harness below the radiator . Once you do that the pipe will go up inside your tow hook. You need to move the electric fan plug from the back of the shroud for more pipe clearance.

It should look like this from the top.http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060256.jpg

Now you will need this 2" pipe http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060123.jpg and a 2.25" to 2" coupler and a 68/60 and 54/62 t-clamp. This pipe you can feed from the firewall back to the front of the car. We didn't even have to take off the K&N heat shield to install. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060257.jpg It's kind of hard to see. But, if you look closely the little silver pipe in the lower right corner of the picture is the IC piping and the left of the picture is the end of the pipe sticking up. Also you can see the turbo adapter. You can get a common 2" exhaust gasket or gasket paper and make a gasket and use gasket maker. Now get the 2" 110 deg. elbow and connect the turbo flange to the IC piping. You will need 2x2" couplers and 4x 62/54 t-clamp. Here are more pictures off it installed. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060261.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060258.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060259.jpg

Now to install your BOV. The flange is not threaded because Aluminum is soft and could strip. Just use a nut and bolts. We use lock nuts on Mike's car GFB hybrid BOV. You have to take off the bolt that holds the BOV return hose to let the hose meet up with the BOV. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060270.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060271.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060282.jpg

 

For the core mounting. I reinforeced heater hose and cut it in have a groumet for the IC. I put one on the brace behind the core. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060275.jpg and then the 2 place where the tanks just touch the back off the bumper on each side. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060277.jpg. When you tighten the bumper bolts the rubber hold the core in place. That's it. When you put on the bumper skin you may have to trim the bumper skin about a 3/4" in the opening to clear the IC couplers. Here is Mike's '08 Spec B. with my FMIC install and the skin and fogs on. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060279.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060283.jpg

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060284.jpg

This is the install using the LGT style turbo and this is the parts that were used.

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060206.jpg

Edited by itsme
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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When you use a STI style turbo you don't use the turbo flange and use the 6" extendion in this picture. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060286.jpg this are the part you use for a Sti style turbo. http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u156/itsmebryan/P1060209.jpg All the parts come in the kit so you have nothing to buy if and when you upgrade. Have fun, Bryan Edited by itsme
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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Wow, my brain hurts from reading that :lol:

 

But awesome job on the kit itsme. I told myself I wouldn't buy anymore power mods but I just might get in on the next GB.

 

itsme/m sprank, do you guys recommend upgrading to a new BPV/BOV with this kit? or will the stock BPV work fine?

 

Also looks like it should work with the AEM CAI since the pipe goes underneath there. Can't wait to see peoples installed pics on an 05.

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Wow, my brain hurts from reading that :lol:

 

But awesome job on the kit itsme. I told myself I wouldn't buy anymore power mods but I just might get in on the next GB.

 

itsme/m sprank, do you guys recommend upgrading to a new BPV/BOV with this kit? or will the stock BPV work fine?

 

Also looks like it should work with the AEM CAI since the pipe goes underneath there. Can't wait to see peoples installed pics on an 05.

The pictures on the GB of the blue car is my '05 5mt wagon w/a 20g http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=126381 Only thing is I revised the pass. side pipe so it goes lower now liket the one in the install pictures. All intake will fit except the stock box. Mike(m sprank) is going to try to make the stock box fit when he puts it on his other '08 LGT. He got two kits for his cars.

Edited by itsme
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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awesome write up. I am going to try and make it work with the rear half of the stock box in place as I have a blitz induction cover. i'll take pics as soon as I do it. thanks for the write up.

 

M Sprank, How do you remove 09 bumper skin?

useless signature line where i cant mention my sponsors

"First Bagged BL5!"

 

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awesome write up. I am going to try and make it work with the rear half of the stock box in place as I have a blitz induction cover. i'll take pics as soon as I do it. thanks for the write up.

 

M Sprank, How do you remove 09 bumper skin?

Don't forget you have pop-its under the fender liner where the bumper meets the fender. Take out all the pop-its top and bottom and pull the skin off the car. You have to use alittle force to get the skin from the fender.

Edited by itsme
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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All.

 

I just finished installing the FMIC on my 2008 5EAT. Not only does it fit, even with my Tru-Cool 4454. but, it also fits with the OEM airbox. Yes you heard right the FMIC fits with the OEM airbox!

 

I took lots of pix. Especially of what needs to be trimmed for the best possible fit.

 

Not done tuning yet (on both cars). But the initial results are the same. I can run more boost and timing.

 

What do you think? Does it fit? Installed in both my 2008's now. One in the SpecB and one in the 5EAT. Yeah buddy!

1760270424_FMIC001.thumb.jpg.d24acbe687bb24bcc3c636c3ca903865.jpg

698744945_FMIC002.thumb.jpg.909103a3f6de274c029b2214f3567ece.jpg

1889744669_FMIC003.thumb.jpg.8b5201dbfe9890e8bd5c49809e7a15a8.jpg

587840497_FMIC004.thumb.jpg.479fa52c17756a468a5ad5b6126a3902.jpg

2042692874_FMIC005.thumb.jpg.ec8b02833d34f4ee95140f51994c682b.jpg

8338007_FMIC006.thumb.jpg.edee579f37c9842742e1406f24009477.jpg

122975321_FMIC007.thumb.jpg.61bd2df2cbf67ec3baa2b9564550ed39.jpg

1726111414_FMIC008.thumb.jpg.b56faf17a547ce4f000f0b162530c12c.jpg

699947672_FMIC009.thumb.jpg.ff57e74d8507facd35227d51be6d0826.jpg

66426010_FMIC010.thumb.jpg.bb0743a6059b700d1f3455ee8ebe68e6.jpg

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OEM BPV works fine until you go larger turbo. Both my BPV's are using the original springs still. I have the lighter spring for the GFB, but have not needed it yet. Will need it for the 68HTA.

 

To remove the bumper skin you must remove a bunch of popits. Hard to explain in words. The 4 clips for the grill need to be released. The 4 popits around the grill need to be removed. 1 popit in each front fender well need to be removed (behind tire). 6 popits under the front of the car need to be removed. 1 popit hidden in the fender well lining right at the edge of the fender and bumber skin need to be removed (both sides). Pull the edges out of the track (fenders) pull from the front. Once it is off, remove the fog light wires. Be careful the skin scratches easliy.

 

I think that is all of the popits. Off the top of my head.

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They are using heater-hose rubber, cut and wedged between the the possible contact points. 2 on the bumper beam, and 1 behind the core on the frame that the hood latch is mounted to.

 

I want to see if its wedged tight enough to last actual driving

Well he put over 120mi on the car since the install and no problem. You also have to remember you have the tray below and the pipe holding the core. You really dont need much more to hold it. It might be hard to understand until you see in person or install. I have had my core on my car with the XO2 kit for over 2yrs the same way and it never moved or damaged the core. That include drag strips and mountain craving.

You can add a simple "L" bracket if you like.

 

I had that intercooler made to fit like that. That is the biggest core that will fit behind the bumper. You have remember that this kit was made from scratch and has no off the shelf parts. You notice the big 180 into the turbo like on the XO2 kit is gone. Even the turbo flange is different. Not like the XO2 kit that I made awhile back. Which was nothing more then a WRX kit that I changed 2 pipes.

Edited by itsme
Racer X FMIC for '05-'09 LGTs, '08+ WRX and '10+ LGT,'14+ FXT, and '15+ WRX TMIC Racerxengineering.com
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First to address the fit of the core. Between the slight touch of the bumper beam on the two sides, the radiator support beam and the pipes being attached the core is "locked" in place. I am able to grab it in my hands and when I try to shake it, the whole car moves. Just like if I was grabbing the bumper beam. I had Bryan try too. He outweighs me by about 100lbs. He just made the car move more, lol.

 

The core is going NO where and needs NO extra support.

 

Second, to fit with the OEM airbox. I had to trim off the tabs on the side of the box that held the two hoses and the MAF wires. They are all now supported by the piping. Second, I had to trim a little metal (1/2") off the front of the car to give the pipe a little extra rotation. Third, I had to be very careful putting the front piece of the airbox in (it is tight). Fourth, I had to take some time and patience to get the bottom bolt that secures the airbox tightened down. The pipe is covering it. Thats it. The only FMIC to use the OEM airbox. The car could come from the factory this way.

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