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QUESTION: Legacy GT 2005+


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Hello everyone

Im looking forward to buy it next year

I wanted to ask what are the things that need to be looked at when buying this car? Are there any problems with the engine like the ones that occurred with the older EJ25 (head gasket/piston2&4 knocking)? Are there any particular problems with the car at all?

How much power can you get out of a stock car by logging but without sacrificing the engine life too much?

Any input is greatly appreciated!

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There are a few threads on this.

 

I bought an 05, but looking back I'd probably pick up an 06 for the following reasons:

 

1. The turbo part number was replaced to a (supposedly) more reliable model

 

2. 07+ are CAN-BUS and I don't believe you can use a normal open-source tune / tactrix cable on them yet.

 

3. 06+ can play MP3 CD's

 

Everything else seems to be pretty reliable on these cars.

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oh yeah and is there anything about the stock brakes?

the old LGT was famous for having brakes that were not sufficient for its weight

anything of the sort with the new one?

p.s. if there are any existing threads on this could you please link me to them?

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I disagree...I think the braking is completely sufficient for this car. It is the biggest brake setup from subaru short of the STI. I have never felt that stopping distance is a problem that needs to swapped out upon buying the car. I do plan on upgrading when my stock pads wear out...and I am at 58k miles.

 

If you plan on doing some tracking or autocross...then you'll need an upgrade.

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Yea what im saying is that the rotors and pads suck. But the rest of the system is great. The only reason i haven’t changed mine yet is cuz brakes are covered by the warranty. once thats done im gettin better rotors and pads not performance so im prolly goin wagner. I like their products.
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Then your crazy, these brakes are horrible. Can they stop the car yes, but the warp easy and make the car feel like it has a weak pedal. I let my friend tony take my car for a day while i took his when he returned it he said my brake pedal feels soft and i should get them changed, then i told him that the pads had just been changed and the whole system was bled and refilled. Lets put it this way, my moms 04 monte carlo SS(non-supercharged) Stops alot better than my car did before i upgraded.
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Then your crazy, these brakes are horrible. Can they stop the car yes, but the warp easy and make the car feel like it has a weak pedal. I let my friend tony take my car for a day while i took his when he returned it he said my brake pedal feels soft and i should get them changed, then i told him that the pads had just been changed and the whole system was bled and refilled. Lets put it this way, my moms 04 monte carlo SS(non-supercharged) Stops alot better than my car did before i upgraded.

 

exact reason i am getting new rotors and pads...

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I noticed the car stop far better when i got slotted rotors and hawk pads however the pedal still felt a little weak, it firmed up a noticiable amount but not good enough. Now with new lines and fluid its actually starting to feel like a performance braking car and daddy likes.
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I had a Pontiac GTP and had to stand on it to get the car to even slow down. At high speeds it was a death trap. The Legacy is ten times better then the brakes GM put on my old car. The rotors don't warp they get deposit build up on them, I had this problem a year back and it cleared itself up after the bedding procedure.
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I had a Pontiac GTP and had to stand on it to get the car to even slow down. At high speeds it was a death trap. The Legacy is ten times better then the brakes GM put on my old car. The rotors don't warp they get deposit build up on them, I had this problem a year back and it cleared itself up after the bedding procedure.

 

No buddy, the oem rotors on these cars are known for warping, yes sometimes rotors get things on them but they do warp aswell. The GTP didnt get performance brakes pre 04 it still had single pistons all the way around, most guys go to the junkyard and get 98-02 trans am or camaro z28/ss calipers, its a super easy install. When i upgraded the calipers on my T/A i put my orig ones on my friends 01 GTP and it was alot better.

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Legacy's aren't the only vehicles with warp prone rotors...trust me. The issue is driven by profit margins, where they use the minimum amount of material required for the application (i.e.- least expensive unit). If you want better rotors then you have to go aftermarket. Most of the time you don't even have to go name-brand aftermarket to get better rotors, some part chains carry replacement units that are an improvement.

 

This past summer I ran 5 - 20 minutes sessions on the Autobahn CC full course without any issues with the factory installed parts. I did get a little glazing on the rotors, but that came off with a couple days of street driving. The driving instructor I had along one session commented on how well the stock system handled the abuse on the track. Now if I had r-compound rubber on the car, all bets are off on the stock parts.

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OP:

the oem brakes will likely wear on you long before they warp, so don't worry about that, just replace them, along with the oem tires, the day you drive it home. the system is adequate, but feels sloppy due to longer pedal travel than most cars (imo) and the typical rubber lines that will expand with heat. get SS reinforced lines when you replace the rotors/pads, if you have the means (+$150) and are a nut about brake feel.

 

At least 1 older subaru foible that carries over to this car: relatively weak wheel bearings (however, fronts are covered to 60K, rears to 100K).

 

Most reports of non-wear item oem powertrain component lifespan are above average. There have been some who modify that see an injector fail early here and there, a worked turbo going at 60K or so, occasionally a beaten auto trans losing its friction.

Overall, it's an above average reliable car, imho, with the engine being the anchor.

Early engine failure is relatively rare, and most commonly seen when people push the internals beyond their fairly well-established limits, either with improper tuning, and/or overreaching power goals.

 

Wear items are what will dig into your pocket a bit with this car (brakes, tires, clutch [if you have an MT], regular religious maintenance, etc.) but those are a common expense of the cost of power.

 

Mods are much more likely to be your #1 expense ;)

 

best of luck

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Just be aware that if the pedal feels sloppy it may be because the brake calipers needs some maintenance. They are on some models of the floating type and that means that they have to slide sideways on a pair of pins, and this is a point where rust can cause problems.

 

So if you notice more wear on one side of the disc than the other then you may have problems with this. I had well-polished discs on the outside but the inside was just a rust coating. :(

 

Stuck caliper pistons is also something to consider and look out for.

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