Prepping for clutch replacement - need some guidance.

I have 68k on my odo now and want to replace/upgrade my clutch preventively, instead of ending up needing to at a bad time. The car still drives fine and pulls strong. I don't notice any slipping, but I do want to start saving now and reasearching to find a good combo so when the time comes, I'm ready to roll. I'm thinking late spring I'll probably do the upgrade.

 

I have 2 main questions.

 

Shoud I do the install or take it to a reputable shop? I don't have a garage or trans jack. So the install would add $70 for a harbor freight tranny jack I would probably use once.. And this is my DD, so if I don't get it doen in my alotted time I'm SOL.... I do feel I am a good DIY mechanic, but I haven't done much with clutches. I did put one in a late 70's Chevy truck I had... but I could swim under that hood

If I do pay, what should I expect a good quote to be, just for the install?

 

2nd... What setup is suggested? I know this has been asked many times, but I can't find alot of recent discussion around different setups for a DD. Maybe I just suck at searching on here, if so please educate me

 

FYI - I have an '08 LGT 5MT - Bone Stock. Have no immediate intentions of upgrading. Maybe AP/ECU tune and some exhaust in a few years... possibly bigger turbo, but again it will be a couple years until then. I want to stay on a low budget, but want to do it right. I like to drive aggressive and push my car when I can. My driving is an even mix of highway/city but here in WV, city is stop and go at lights only

 

Thanks in advance for any discussion and info.

sadly there is no low budget for the LGT clutch i'm finding. The cheapest way for quality would be to grab the ACT HD street disc clutch, and nab a 06-07 WRX flywheel off someone on Nasioc. Before the install, get the flywheel and have it resurfaced and the pilot bearing replaced, then elot the weekend for the install.

 

It is NOT a fun install at all. If you are using a floor jack and jack stands, then I really hope you are thin and not too tall. you have to wedge yerself under there pretty good at some times. to fit between the block and tranny to do the change out (if you leave the axles attached; it takes long, but is easier due to space if you remove the CVs) is a hard task for a big guy. If you think you are a long ways off from noticeable power, then just get the exedy oem replacement (though I dont know if you need the WRX FW for that one)

 

If you know how to remove the front axles and disassemble the front suspension, then its pretty quick as there is not much to the tranny part. but DRAIN the unit first so save some weight. this would be an ideal time to replace the fluids in there....

 

hope it helps some.

 

T

I just had my clutch done, I have an '05 and I did the ACT HD with the WRX FW from Fred beans. I had my local subi dealer do the work for $550 labor cost. It was done by the afternoon.

Thanks for the feedback guys. If I decide to get a flywheel resurfaced, I'll just have mine resurfaced as it is single-mass. The more I read, it seems ACT is a good solid long lasting choice. Still debating resurfacing over buying a new flywheel.

 

$550 sounds fair for labor, that's what 5.5 hrs at $100/hr I'm guessing. I'm gonna call a couple transmission shops around here to see what they quote me.

Fred beans has some good pricing on the set up. I would recommend a Spec 2 and the WRX flywheel. I have lots of confidence in my Spec2+ and LWFW.

 

About 550 sounds about right for the labor.

 

There are threads about those useless flywheel bolts Subaru installed. Fredbeans has a kit for them.

 

If you do your brakes and other suspension work on your cars, you should have the tools to do this. There are video's on the job too, so if your confident and start on Saturday morning you should be ok.

 

Just read your post, You NEED to resurface the flywheel if your going to reuse it.

Thanks for the input Max, I have the basic tools, what I don't have is a transmission jack or a garage. So if I start on Saturday and the weather shifts, I'm screwed. I work every other saturday for now, so I would need to plan this out a few weeks ahead.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the flywheel, I understand the need to resurface. To rephrase, Is it better to buy a new flywheel v resurfacing? What advantages are gained with different types of flywheels? I assume faster revs therefore faster spooling with a lighter weight flywheel?

 

This spring I should have the money saved up.

 

I've watched the video, and it seems pretty straightforward... just still not quite confident I could get it done in a weekend. I guess I'm moreso afraid I would screw something up causing me to have to tow it to a garage and be stuck paying more to fix the problem I've caused. With brakes and suspension the parts are easier to handle and maneuver IMO, so I feel more confident. I guess if this wasn't my DD and I had a garage I'd go for it for sure...

Its an honest 5 hr job at a Subaru dealer who knows the engine and transmission inside and out.

 

Anyone who is tackling this job themselves in their driveway could end up being without a driveable car for days.

 

 

Yes, 500+ bucks for pro labour is a lot of dough for anyone, but its the right thing to do.

Yes, 500+ bucks for pro labor is a lot of dough for anyone, but its the right thing to do.

 

Yeah that's the conclusion I'm drawing.

 

Thanks for the input. Any thoughts on flywheel, clutch setup?

I roll the ACT clutch / WRX single mass FW combo from Fred Beans in my wagon. Love it love it love it.

 

Great holding power and much better performing than the sloppy, long throw OEM combo my 05 LGT came with.

Hmm, for $500 I might consider it... we did two clutches in a long Saturday and part of Sunday.... it wasn't terribly difficult overall, but the downpipe comes off, the driveshaft comes off, some of the suspension comes off, and you need a wishbone holder thing...

 

I also think it would have been next to impossible with only one person, even with a tranny jack... it gets all tilted around and we had one person lying underneath pushing while the other tried to guide it on top...

 

Are you going to do the TSK3 kit? $500 for labor is hard to swallow, but if you don't have help and absolutely need it done in a day you might consider it, but don't replace it until it starts slipping....

i actually pulled the motor out and did the plugs as well as replace the coolant. ive got 65k on it. just did it last week. took about 4 hours.

I did mine a couple months ago. I thought it was an easy job. It takes some time, as there is quite a bit to take off and put back on. But every bolt is easy to reach, and there are no clearance issues. Keep in mind I've done dozens of clutch changes, but this was my first Subaru. By comparison, AWD DSMs are a pain. I removed the axles and and transmission completely. I know it's probably quicker you leave them partialy installed, it it seemed easier to get everything out of the way. Plus you will likely need to change the inner right CV boot (an easy if messy job) as it gets cooked by the exhaust. I didn't unbolt the ball joints, just the strut to hub bolts. The hubs fold way to give you just enough clearance to remove the axles. Just be sure to mark them for the alignment. The only issue I had was the splines of the axles freezing in the hubs. They were pretty stuck, and my car has lived it's life in CA and hasn't a spot of rust. I'd imagine an car from the snowbelt would give you more trouble. I had no trouble removing and installing the tranny with a regular floor jack. There is a tab on the bottom of the tranny that fits onto the jack pad, and it's right at the tranny's center of gravity. I strapped it to the jack on removal just in case, but it was not needed. It was simple to remove. I actually had my wife work the jack while I guided the tranny with no problem. Installation was easy with the following tips. I removed the bottom engine to tranny studs. I used a ratcheting tie down strap between the engine hoist attachment point on the engine and the engine roll stopper mounting point on the firewall. This let me tilt the engine back and line up the tranny easily. If you can change a clutch in any car, you can change the clutch in your LGT.

Oh, and are you sure you need to change your clutch at 68k? Mine had 98k on it, but the throwout bearing went out. The disc itself had another 20-30k left in it with my long commute driving.

"I used a ratcheting tie down strap between the engine hoist attachment point on the engine and the engine roll stopper mounting point on the firewall. This let me tilt the engine back and line up the tranny easily. "

 

This is an awesome tip... we had a makeshift pitching stopper and the engine rolled forward a bit, it made it terrible to get lined up...

 

We also tried the slide the transmission back method at first, which would be fine, but we installed the TSK3 as well. That would have been next to impossible to do with that method and the tiny set screws..

 

It's not a terrible job, it's just not fun.. I thought pulling the engine was easier than doing the clutch. For $500 I might bite the bullet and save the pain of it, most quotes I had were in the $800 range...

South Bend Clutch has great prices. i got my stage 3 clutch/pressure plate for $485 shipped. And i got a BNIB spec lwfw for 250 locally.

 

It was my first clutch job and I now feel confident to do any clutch install. It took about 24 hours total that I spread between Sat/Sun. My tranny jack sucked, I didn't get the right T50+ bit for the flywheel but other than that it went smoothly. Just remember to check every single bolt twice and torque them to spec.

Exedy FJK1001FW comes with single mass FW and bearings. Not sure what they go for US but here it's cheaper then buying an OEM FW from the dealer.