Poll for Clutch

Not sure how to do this so asking if anyone can for Stage II people as most are at this level for 5MT.

 

SPEC II+, SPEC LWFW

ACT Clutch , ACT Streetlight FW

06 WRX Clutch, ACT LWFW

All I know for sure is you definately don't want an OEM WRX clutch which is rated for less power....

I'm planning on option #4 - ACT clutch + OEM 06 WRX flywheel

I just purchased JSC Speed the SPEC Stage II+ and SPEC LWFW

I heard a horror story about a spec clutch install from a very reputable dealership. Apparently Spec sent the wrong product and then insisted that it was the right one, made the installer pay for shipping it back etc. and eventually just sent the right one without appologizing, or crediting them. The same dealer had more fitment issues with the same system, different car another time. Long story short, pretty good product with atrocious custome service.

Bumping this thread to see if more people want to share their input. I'm looking into a clutch upgrade for my car.

-Franz

exedy stage 1 and f1 13.9lb wrx flywheel?

I'm going bigger than Stage 2 so I went with a Spec Stage 2+ with OEM FW since I drive in traffic everyday. I'm getting it installed tomorrow.

 

From what I researched, everyone here seems to like the ACT clutch with OEM WRX FW for their stage 2 set ups.

Bump for this thread. I'm curious what people pick since I hear horror stories bout both spec and act

I've had my ACT HDMM and LWFW on for about 35k miles. The LWFW took a little getting used to but now I love it. It never slips and engages nearly as smoothly as stock. Never driven the others listed so I cant comment with a comparison. The only downside is the added chatter and gear noise when decelerating.

any one have a video of this decel noise?

I'm planning on option #4 - ACT clutch + OEM 06 WRX flywheel

 

.

DS1 mentioned that on some cars with excessive noise, they took the clutch parts out and upon close inspection, the input shaft had some grooving that was probably causing the noises. Some cars had grooving, others did not. In general, a heavier flywheel is used to act as a damper to reduce vibrations and the gear noise that is there. So when a lighter flywheel is used, the noises become more apparent.

-Franz

I suppose the question comes down to "what do you want to do with it"?

 

Don't have the brand specific knowledge but I did drag race Oldsmobiles from about 1988 to 1993 in Florida. Street / Pro Street stuff in exciting Bithlo, Florida!

 

Rule of thumb is that stock parts in hipo cars are made +20% meaning they'll happily take 20% extra built on power AND run every day as regular drivers.

 

Let's say you had a stock 2010 WRX with 265 hp (truthfully the torque is more important but you get the idea). +20% takes you up to 318 hp (+53 hp). If you want to go higher, look for the aftermarket parts.

 

Pete

I'm going bigger than Stage 2 so I went with a Spec Stage 2+ with OEM FW since I drive in traffic everyday. I'm getting it installed tomorrow.

From what I researched, everyone here seems to like the ACT clutch with OEM WRX FW for their stage 2 set ups.

 

I disagree COMPLETELY. I could not be happier with my lightened Flywheel. I will admit that there is a small amount of noise off throttle from 3000 to 2000 rpm that sounds a little like driving slow on gravel but no, I don't have a video or sound byte because honestly, my GForceSport rubber (tires!) are so loud a teeny-tiny bit of tranny noice is not noticeable.

 

I respect that you live in TX and all but I live in LOS ANGELES which has many of the worst traffic areas in the USA are, and I drive in rush hour with my lightened flywheel and it does not bother me a bit.

 

For the first 50-100 miles, during early clutch break-in I did not drive in bumper to bumper but after that? No big deal.

 

What I will tell you is what you are GIVING UP buy deciding to use a overweight (OEM) flywheel...

 

You are losing faster engine rev, more responsive throttle and the car pulls NOTICEABLY harder. You will really notice a difference in 3rd and 4th gear. I would say that after I changed out the flywheel the car felt like I had taken a body out of the trunk.

 

Thats right... Felt like at least 150lbs (or one of my buddies). I know the difference is small but I am SO happy with this that I can't wait to get a few LW pullys.

 

The difference in a 13-14lb LF and a OEM LGT (28lbs ish) is huge but completely daily driveable. After a stage 1 clutch kit (exedy) and race flywheel (13.8lb F1 wrx) my clutch feels a lot like a stock audi TT.

 

In other words... TOTALLY DAILY DRIVEABLE IN WHATEVER CONDITION YOU CAN DRIVE OEM. (And great fun in the rain this week!)

 

Good rule of thumb is that nothing stage 1 (unless improperly labled) is a huge change in driveability. I am sure there is some exception to this rule but I am not personally aware of it (again I am not aware of a lot of things).

 

Best of luck, if you were in my area, I would meet up with you so you can drive my setup.

LALGT

I didn't bash a LWFW at all. I said that I kept my OEM FW. It was a personal preference. I also mentioned that people here seem to use the OEM WRX FW which is true. I have driven a car with a lwfw before and I know the benefits. On my daily commute, I rarely ever see anything over 3500rpm and 5psi. I have no need for better throttle response 28/30 days of the month. The other 2 days are autoX/track days where driving skill is more important than car potential. I do not compete competitively in this car(I'm building another car) and I have much more to learn about driving my car at the limit. I'm glad you can drive in LA traffic with your LWFW though. Congrats to you.

 

Cliff notes: I didn't bash a LWFW nor do I need it.

ACT combo; but I am on my 2nd ACT clutch :-) The LWFW is indeed a good upgrade for the car in terms of throttle response.

ACT combo; but I am on my 2nd ACT clutch :-) The LWFW is indeed a good upgrade for the car in terms of throttle response.

 

Why are you on a 2nd ACT clutch? A lot of miles and launches?

-Franz

I'm glad you can drive in LA traffic with your LWFW though. Congrats to you.

Cliff notes: I didn't bash a LWFW nor do I need it.

 

BNGuy,

 

I was not trying to say you bash LWFW, or NEED one either. What I am saying is, if there is something BETTER, for cheaper......And you gotta replace it anyway...

 

The SIX steps that led me to a LWFW, heavier PP and Stage 1 clutch:

 

1. The stock flywheel is not good to resurface, so if I am going to replace that, I may as well find a good deal.

2. I found BETTER ONES ARE CHEAPER THAN OEM (F1 Racing 13lb flywheel runs between $150-200, balanced for 12000rpm)

3. There is basically ZERO loss of driveability going from a 28lb to a 13lb, the car actually feels like it runs considerably easier.

4. The OEM clutch/PP is wimpy and has so-so pedal feel IMO. Stage 1 clutch/heavier PP is a HUGE improvement in feel over the mushy stock clutch/pp and I would honestly suggest it for a stage zero LGT.

5. ACT/Exedy/etc. staged clutches are designed for the WRX flywheel so if I wanted a staged clutch, I had to get a different flywheel.

6. If I am comfortable with my girlfriend driving it in bumper to bumper in downtown Los Angeles, anyone can, and it feel grabby but stock enough that it is a non issue.

 

I totally hear you about not wanting to modify a car you are not trying to race it out... But IMO. it seems strange to me to stay OEM with better, cheaper alternatives seem to be out there. I would also point out that while I am going to do power upgrades, this has been done to an otherwise stock LGT, so I know it is a GREAT upgrade to a STAGE ZERO car like you have.

 

My 2cents

LALGT

Why are you on a 2nd ACT clutch? A lot of miles and launches?

-Franz

 

 

So basically clutch had about 20% life left. I never launch; in fact I am known to be somewhat of a "Captain Slow" among the Chicagoland Cruise Crew. But I have about 30k miles on it - 2 years. almost to the day. Not sure why such a short life either; cause I know how I drive.