Please Help Stranded!

I downloaded the new version 117 stage 2 map on my accessport v 1 today then installed it to the car by book step by step, all went well, Now the car starts but wont rev and it smells like pure gas running rich, it wont run it drives but at wot it wont go above 5 mph. reverse jerks you back and forth over and over, i need to fix this because it is my daily driver and am stuck at home. after i tryed to put it back to the old base map and still the same thing. Then tryed to go back to stock mode and still the same thing. Then unmarried and tryed an old v110 stage 1 map and still the same thing. its an automatic and am using automatic maps. did i just kill my car? i only did the update to try and prevent the stutter on start that was suposed to be fixed with this version. also i was throwing a p2096 code that was deleted on this upgrade. do i need a new ecu? has anyone else had this proplem? it idles but really bad. and rough. at wide open throttle its only hitting 2000 rpm.

Normally I would ask what your base map is. But, you seem familair enough with a V1 AP. Seeing how the issue remains after the AP is "divorced" I would point to the ECM. I am always very uneasy when using V1 AP's.

Actually it's the first time I've tried to re set the base map, ECM what do u mean?

This was my dads car he gave it to me in his will. He had me bolt up all the exhaust but never included me in the mapping. I want to make this right not to drive but for him god rest his soul. I feel like I got a cursed car. Sold my 2011 toyota tacoma trd off road manual because he asked me to take care of his car for him when he was on hospice and I've done nothing but failed since I've got it, I feel helpless. What should I do? Only had the car 3 months.

Ecm = ecu

With everything I've read if the car doesn't start failed ecu. My car starts and runs just spits and sputters and has little to no throttle response to the RPms. It will go into gear and reverse trans, ok. Motor ok, I left the battery unplugged for the nite and we will see if that does anything in the morning but I doubt it.

well hooked up the battery this morning and still the same spit and sputter, car starts and runs but same as before. i have a check engine light but when i try and read it with my ap it says no cels at this time. before with my old cel i had to take it to advance to get it read, it was the p0296 so i tryed to fix it with this update and ended up scewing the hole thing up, i am open for suggestions, i assume if i send my ecu to cobb they can fix it? what if i went to a cobb pro tuner and just have them pro tune it what would be the best way to go about this issue? or should i just call cobb and see what they say?

Not sure which car you're doing this on, but assuming this is a 4th gen, did you unplug the cable in the passenger foot well after you were done flashing?

Did you do a learning view or check your fuel trims before you reflashed? It could be that there was a problem before you flashed the ecu, and now its just more pronounced with a more aggressive tune.

 

If the check engine light is flashing and there is no cruise light then that means you still have diag cable connected.

 

Those maps are ready to go out the box, it seems like you have a mechanical issue.

i did unhook the cables on the floor board after i flashed it, also i have a v 1 access port so i couldnt check any of the fuel trims. I understand what your saying about it being mechanical but i even un married the car and its still doing the same. i then reflashed with the old map that was running fine on it and its not making any difference just spit sputter kinda reminds me of a bad distributor or misfireing. imediatly after i tryed the upgraded map i went back to what i had been running fine a tdc map a that was the current map before i started anything and now every map i load on it does exactly the same. no change. is it possible for an ecu to just lock up and say its accepted maps and just keep the same data thats failed on it?

 

btw the car is a 2005 legacy gt. catless w/ an underdrive pulley and avo intake pannell filter. My dad told me before he died that it was a stage 2.5? the current map when i got the car was a TDC map a. Not to sure what that was so i thought if i went stage 2 updated for the deleted cels went from v 115 to v 117 hoping it would solve my problems and be a bit more reliable and possibly a little slower.

APV1 requires a base map. Then all other maps are flashed as a realtime map. If you removed the base map and flashed the realtime map without a base it would cause all sorts of issues. It is very easy to "brick" an ecm with an APV1. You could have an issue that is repairable without outside help (by flashing a base map and real time properly) or you could have an ecm that needs to be sent off to Cobb for a bench reset.

 

Hindsight is always 20/20, but with an APV1 it would have been prudent to do some searching and research before hooking it up and flashing.

 

On a side note, you could try to hook up a laptop and Tactrix cable and flash the OEM tune via opensource. I have had success resurrecting bad APV1 flashes in that way before.

If you didnt mod the car or change anything other than the flash and now your experiencing all these problems, I'd say that AP took a shit on your ecu somehow. I'd start with trying to get that ecu back to stock.

thanks guys for all your help and advise, i think im just going to call cobb tom morning and see how much its going to cost to have them bench reset it for me if they agree with what we are all thinking. i think im in over my head. tryed to do the reserch and eveything said the cobb is easy as pie. i talked to some other sube guys and they said always make sure you check for updates and download them as the come out. oh well. not as smart as i thought i was with this car.

You can not update a APV1 anymore. AP manger software does not support it. Cobb no longer supports them, they offer a "core" when you upgrade. I would call them Tuesday as they are usually very helpful. APV2 are very reliable and easy to use. The new versions are about as simple as it is going to get. APV1 is another story.

What is the history of the APv1? They were model, year and transmission specific, so it you have the wrong one maybe it is causing your problems?

You can not update a APV1 anymore. AP manger software does not support it. Cobb no longer supports them, they offer a "core" when you upgrade. I would call them Tuesday as they are usually very helpful. APV2 are very reliable and easy to use. The new versions are about as simple as it is going to get. APV1 is another story.

 

 

 

So u think if I get the apv2 and use it to change my base map it could fix everything I got going on?

The way the AP v2 works is you need the car with the stock tune on it, AP copies the stock tune to itself, and then flashes the stage 1 or stage 2 tune. That way you can always flash the stock tune back. Seeing as you don't know what tune is on there or if it's on there correctly/fully/functioning, I'm not sure that's the best idea.

 

You can download the "stock" tune from Cobb's site, however, which might work. It's a $400-450 used or $600 new guess at what is wrong though...

Understandable. I'll wate to hear what cobb says till I screw the pooch further at least my car starts now. I'm picking up a cel reader Tom from a friend at work so when i call cobb ill have all the facts and what cels are current now after the flash to try and help them help me. I'm all for getting the apv2 tho have been looking at it for awhile b 4 all my problems.

 

... Wonder if it would be a better idea to just tow the car to a certified cobb tuner, and have them fix it. I have access to a car trailer and truck to pull it. Then I would be Shure rather then guess. Plus I would know what all my dad did to this thing that I was unaware of. What do u guys think about that idea? I will still ask cobb just wondering what u guys thought of that?

Call Cobb in the morning. Go from there.

Well talked to Aron at cobb today and first off I'm just gonna say he's a pleasure to talk to and get great advice from. He told me my ecu is not "bricked" because my car starts. So it could be that my apv1 is courrupt and sent a courrupt map to the ecu. He recommended that I do the trade in program for apV2 and try and download a fresh map. Another option is open source like m sprank recommended. He also said it could be mechanical related but it would have to be one big coincidence considering I drove the car fine not only an hour before changeling the base map. He had me check all my hoses and everything under my hood looks secure. He also mentioned a injector going bad so I don't know about that if it drove fine an hour before. I mean it is an 05 lgt wagon 5seat with only 25k miles on it so its in great shape not to much where and tear on it. I think im going to go with the cobb ap trade in just because he told me if it doesn't fix my problem they would money back return it no problem. So i really have nothing to loose. What do u guys think about this plan?

Go with the trade in. Sounds like the AP sent a corrupt file (not the first time an APV1 has done that, trust me).