Oil light flicker at startup. Cracked oil pickup tube

I've noticed that my oil light has been flickering off within seconds after startup vs. the usual hard cut off. Hooked up a oil pressure gauge under the alternator and oil pressure was within spec until it warmed up. Warmed up I am getting 10psi at idle and 40-50 while cruising. Also noticed on hard cornering that oil pressure would drop and flucutate at the same rpm. Immediatly pulled the car off the road and haven't had time to touch it for the past couple of months.

Fixed a minor oil leak on the oil cooler last night and got motivated to drop the pan. As expected cracked oil pick up. Ordering a killer b pickup ASAP.

Hope this helps anyone experiencing similar issues.

For anyone needing to swap their pickup, see below for parts list, $'s, and a few tips I learned during the install.

Parts List:

-Permatex Ultra Grey Maximum Torque Gasket Maker ($7.39)

-Killer B Oil Pickup ($173.33)

-Oil Change with Rotella T6, Filter, Crush Washers (~$30 Estimated as I already had this in inventory)

-Sunpro CP8216 StyleLine Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge ($16 to ensure correct reading and confirm prosport electric gauge was OK)

Total: $226.72

Tips/Notes:

-Remove exhaust header. I know my garage would have been full of profanity if I didn't take the extra time to create plenty of working space.

-Remote pickup line allows for quick swap between mechanical and electronic pressure gauges

-Being that I was tackling this job solo I had to get a bit creative when aligning the motor mount bolts up with the sub frame. I used two ratchet straps on each side of the header and sub frame to pull the engine back to allow for perfect alignment when lowering the engine.

-I am not your standard mechanic, I'm a software developer that knows how to use google, youtube, and read forums. I take my time when tackling projects on the car and know that a trained mechanic could most likely do it in 1/3 the time. With that said, this project was not very difficult and took me several beers and around 5-6 hours of actual labor.

Did yours completely break off or just crack?

I just placed my order for by killer b pickup; looks like I may have the car back on the road by the weekend. She's been a garage queen for the past couple of months.

Some people say that seeing the oil light might mean its too late with these cars. Sounds like you may have gotten lucky though and were on top of it.

I need an oil pressure gauge.

Above^^^ it's been mentioned as common, the broken pickup tube.

Is it a part most of us should replace without a doubt?

TIA!

I've never replaced any of mine on the Subaru's I've owned, but if I'd ever have a reason to drop the oil pan I would without a doubt replace the pick-up with a better unit.

A oil pressure gauge would be a great idea to keep an eye on things like the OP, plus you get to add a gauge which is cool.

Above^^^ it's been mentioned as common, the broken pickup tube.

 

Is it a part most of us should replace without a doubt?

 

TIA!

It seems to be generally recommended that it's replaced. But generally they probably aren't. I know I am not looking forward to trying to drop my oil pan and clean everything and seal it all back-up.

I've never replaced any of mine on the Subaru's I've owned, but if I'd ever have a reason to drop the oil pan I would without a doubt replace the pick-up with a better unit.

 

A oil pressure gauge would be a great idea to keep an eye on things like the OP, plus you get to add a gauge which is cool.

It's pretty much the only reason you'd have to drop the pan. . .

BoyceWare, how many miles on your car?

102K miles. Surprisingly dropping the pan was painless. I saw someone recommend removing the header and I would highly agree. It gives so much working space.

Killer B pickup arrived so I should have it all back on the road this weekend.

Finally got around to wrapping up this project. I installed the killer b pickup and pan this weekend. Just to be sure the gasket maker fully cured I put a heater blowing on the pan, with plug removed for air circulation for around 40 hours.

Car is now back on the road and oil pressure is looking good. No leaks after 30+ minutes of idling and a little over an hour of driving. Running 30 PSI at full temp idle, and 80 PSI at full temp when in gear cruising. No fluctuations in oil pressure when holding at the same RPM or when turning sharply.

For anyone needing to swap their pickup, see below for parts list, $'s, and a few tips I learned during the install.

Parts List:

-Permatex Ultra Grey Maximum Torque Gasket Maker ($7.39)

-Killer B Oil Pickup ($173.33)

-Oil Change with Rotella T6, Filter, Crush Washers (~$30 Estimated as I already had this in inventory)

-Sunpro CP8216 StyleLine Mechanical Oil Pressure Gauge ($16 to ensure correct reading and confirm prosport electric gauge was OK)

Total: $226.72

Tips/Notes:

-Remove exhaust header. I know my garage would have been full of profanity if I didn't take the extra time to create plenty of working space.

-Remote pickup line allows for quick swap between mechanical and electronic pressure gauges

-Being that I was tackling this job solo I had to get a bit creative when aligning the motor mount bolts up with the sub frame. I used two ratchet straps on each side of the header and sub frame to pull the engine back to allow for perfect alignment when lowering the engine.

-I am not your standard mechanic, I'm a software developer that knows how to use google, youtube, and read forums. I take my time when tackling projects on the car and know that a trained mechanic could most likely do it in 1/3 the time. With that said, this project was not very difficult and took me several beers and around 5-6 hours of actual labor.