Oil feed line / ID1000 conversion Issue

Posted this in the WDYDTY4thGen thread, but figured I'd just start my own. Here's a better pic:

 

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/3B656710-E91E-4367-BEA3-D956F0A5EBF0-428-000000DF95F75DE1_zpsfdb83033.jpg

 

If it's not clear, here's the situation. I have the ID rails installed along with the AN fitting installed into the rail. I'm trying to install the IP&T oil lines. The issue as you see in the picture, is that when I throw the double banjo on, the height of the bolt head is exactly at the AN fitting and they are touching--basically impossible to rotate the bolt in order to install. Beyond that, the sphere shape of the extra oil line banjo (not shown in pic) also makes contact with the AN fitting (although I think I can massage this to fit...maybe).

 

Right now I'm thinking about taking a dremel to the hex portion of the AN fitting (which is what causes the clearance issue). I think if I remove some material there I can solve the issue, and since the fitting is an Oring seal I'm not worried about losing too much of the tightening ability by removing some of the hex...hopefully that makes sense...?

And to be clear, my issue isn't installing the file line. The clearance issue is between the double banjo bolt and the black fitting shown in the pic.

How much play is there in the fuel rail? What if you secure the fuel line first and then put the IP&T oil supply line in place?

 

Zero slack in fuel rail: TGVs are bolted to the block and the rails are bolted to the TGVs. And that's exactly what I'm trying to do, installed the oil line with the fuel fitting already in place.

 

This if you could find it in -4

 

http://www.anplumbing.com/images/products/7931/1633.jpg

 

 

Or come out of the port with a single banjo then use a tee to split it.

 

Yeah, hex looks a bit smaller on that one. Although worth noting that the fitting into the fuel rail isn't AN (i don't think). I think the piece that I'm screwing into the rail is a oring-boss fitting that converts to the AN male fitting. There's an oring that is used between the fitting and the fuel rail.

I can actually get the oil line banjo to get down into place. Which the actual double banjo bolt though, it has to go in facing EXACTLY vertical, and with that being the cause there's simply no room for the hex head to rotate.

 

It's *REALLY* close. I didn't want to force things last night until I got some feedback today--sometimes I jump the gun with some stupid solution only to find the elegant one shortly after and I'm trying to avoid that!

 

I'll fiddle with things a bit more this evening one way or the other.

Just had a chat with JmP. One option seems to be to reinstall the stock banjo fitting there, and then route the IP&T line / filter setup starting back at the filtered banjo bolt on the back of the head. So double banjo back there with line that would go to the in-line filter, and then from there directly to the turbo.

did you do the Grimmspeed spacers in 3mm for both TGV and IM?

 

I have 3mm spacers installed in between the TGVs and the engine. No point in putting them between the IM and TGV since the IM is already plastic.

I'm using the SFC FLK.

 

I think if you are going to have the exact same setup, your best bet will be to source a longer line from m sprank and run things from the back of the head where the stock filtered banjo bolt is. Keep the AVCS line plumbing the same, and install the double banjo in the back of the head instead of in the passenger front area where I'm having the clearance issue. You would keep the single banjo up there which fits fine (at least with the 3mm spacers under the TGVs). Then run new oil line from back of the head, to inline IP&T filter, to turbo).

 

I'm going to look at that solution this evening to see if everything will look to fit nicely. I may also still just remove a bit of material from the AN fitting with a dremel to check if that will make everything clear OK.

Oh, and even if you make your own lines, you'll still need a ORB-to-AN adapter to install into the end of the fuel rails.

What kind of hose is hiding underneath the IP&T fanciness? I just talked to a place that does mostly power steering lines and the guy said I could bring what I have by for them to look at. I figure I can reuse the fittings that are currently on the IP&T oil hose and would just need them to make me one that's a bit longer. Would probably need to know what type of hose they would need to use though. Would power steer hose carry oil ok?

Went the dremel route. It worked just fine, me thinks. Here are some pics:

 

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/7741C1C5-B8BD-4570-916C-FA6BACA432A3-428-000001FDF6C6A747_zps43a0aa91.jpg

 

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/A37C76E3-24CB-44DD-9966-9A266C0D3264-428-000001FDFD502526_zps95eccb87.jpg

 

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/F723A3B1-4CA5-4080-825A-B3EEB9E6B514-428-000001FE00E30A66_zps29597673.jpg

 

http://i934.photobucket.com/albums/ad187/BarManBean/7C76F333-F2EC-4577-84D4-8EB01471031C-428-000001FE05B44D70_zpse6116e29.jpg

 

It was just enough material removed that I could get a socket on the banjo bolt. I also chose not to remove any material from the ORB fitting side to prevent any possible o-ring sealing issues.

I was looking at the top rail kit myself (as well as the IP&T v2) so I am really glad you posted this. So if you could do it all over you would re-locate the double banjo? or just dremel down the fitting like you did?

 

If I had the turbo and the up pipe uninstalled I guess I would consider installing it in the back of the head where the stock filtered banjo bolt goes. Honestly though I would have to look at clearances back there and also how the oil lines would route.

 

In reality, I would probably do exactly what I did again. It really doesn't take long to dremel the fitting for clearance, the oil lines are still serviceable and you don't need a custom length line, and dremeling the fitting doesn't affect the ability to tighten it down at all since it's just an oring fitting.

 

If you end up modifying the fitting like I did, just use a somewhat coarse sanding wheel and you'll make quick progress--don't use a grinding wheel. Steady hand and take your time and you should be good. I nicked one of the threads slightly, but it hopefully won't cause an issue--I have another fitting in the mail just in case.