Official Way to Break in an Engine, if any?

Hello! Hows it going?

So as some of you may know I blew my engine for being a dumbbutt doing donuts in the snow.

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/bad-idea-gone-wrong-178244.html

Took my car in to a shop and spun #3 rod bearing and everything else was good. Since I'm not looking to for power (broke college student, really broke), and need my car back asap. I decided to go the easiest, fasted, cheapest way out.

I got a new ej257 shortblock (got a deal from my mechanic because he is keeping mine), machine polish my heads, cleaned anything that has to do with oil, new gaskets, got all new fluids: engine, tranny, and differentials. For the engine he said he was gonna run dino or covential oil, and then switch me over to Mutul.

Everything should be in and ready for pick up this thursday night. My question is whats the Correct Way to break in a new Rebuilt engine, if any?

The reason I ask is that I've dumped almost $10k in service and repairs: 105k service with timing belt, water pump, tensioner, and thermo, tires, rear bearing, all need disk brakes and pads, new turbo, and now this, a new engine. I'm done spending money on it and I want to keep her. I'm done driving like a retard, I want her to last me at least another 100k! I've learned my lesson, the hard way, but I have.

So I ask, could someone tell how to correctly break her in or direct me to a link or place on how to break in a New Rebuilt Engine correctly? Maybe this can be come a sicky?

Thanks in Advance!

-Tony

drive it like you stole it!

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

no joke, it's been proven in even 9sec race cars of friends. An initial heat cycle and drive and then flog it on the dyno and tune it ... Performs flawlesly! think about it, when a shop builds a motor and puts it on an engine dyno, do you really think they go through a simulated 500+ mile break-in?

I understand I'll get some hate for this post, but unorthodox ways of doing things usually are

think about it, when a shop builds a motor and puts it on an engine dyno, do you really think they go through a simulated 500+ mile break-in?

Yes, they do.

In reality, just pick a way to break it in and don't think twice.

Me? Change oil at 500mi, 1000mi, 1500mi, 3000mi and keep 3000-3500 OCI's. Keep it under 4k and out of boost until the 1k mark. Then go easy until 1500. Fair game after that.

Did like what That Guy2-1 said, I even WOT right out of the dealership when i got the car

50k on the engine and not burning any oil:)

The shop should tell you their warranted break in method. If you have the money, have them do it on a dyno. If you dont, you have 2 choices:

1. Drive it like its stolen

2. Baby it

I've the same quandary, however, my builder has a schedule to follow. So I'm doing that. R&H will have a suggested break in schedule, too.

BAC5.2 oil changes is what I have done with all my new cars.

I tend to drive the car like I normally would. I like the few short burst to the upper rpm's, after all that is what the car will be in it's normal life.

I would stay off the highway, drive on back roads to let the rings seat under the load of start/stop driving.

I doubt many of these guys have ever owned a 9 sec race car. I haven't either, but I've owned a number of 10 sec street cars. '93 TT Supra (10.20 on drag radials), 92 GSX (10.80's on street tires), '03 Cobra (10,80's on drag radials), to name a few. I broke in all the motors in the same way.

Run good mineral oil for at least 1000-4000 miles. The heat cycling is to break in the cams, it affects nothing else and really unnecessary with OHC engines. To start, I would drive about 50 miles continuously, keeping the revs under 2500 and no more than 1/4 throttle. CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER. Check the oil for metal content. It should have a silver sheen, but no bigger pieces, filter it through a paint strainer, they're cheap 10 cents maybe. If it looks good, start driving more normal, for 100-200 miles, then change it again, straining it, looking for anything but silver colored silt. Do it again at 500 miles, 1200 miles, 2000 miles, then 4000 miles.

If at any time you see metal chunks, take the strainer to your mechanic and let him see the shavings. Anything copper colored is a huge red flag, that's bearing material.

I'd hold off really beating on it for at least 500 miles. By 2000 miles, the oil should be clean of the silver. You can change over to synthetics sooner, but I wouldn't until you don't see silver in the oil. The silver is the rings seating up. Synthetic will take a lot longer to get rings broke in to seal, especially on a boosted engine.

Everybody has an opinion on this, but I was making over 600hp in the Supra and the Cobra, neither ever had a problem and I know the owners after I sold them.

My 2 cents.

I know Bisimoto uses a specific break-in oil(Torco), and claim that it can be done in about 30 minutes using their dyno(If I remember correctly, it's not WOT pulls but just increased load on their dynapack).

This is from Earl at Laskey Racing:

One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? The cylinders are round, the rings are round, the bore is freshly honed and therefore your engine should be ready for tuning immediately. They will continue to seat better over a short period of time but you should be ready to go tune right away.

 

Do I need to drive it 500 miles before I tune it? Absolutely not. How about 50 miles? No. Perhaps the best thing to do is to drive it all the way to your trailer and tow it to a competent tuner. In second position on the “things NOT to do list” is trying to break in an un-tuned engine by driving it. Too lean an air/fuel will begin to heat and distort parts, too rich will wash the oil off the cylinders causing premature wear. What is in first place on the “things NOT to do list”? Boost on an un-tuned motor. Within 2 to 3 seconds the pistons and cylinders can be ruined.

Well I did put in a new base map or I’m just running off the stock Honda computer. Can’t I drive it like that for a few miles? I’m not even boosting. Well what is the base map? Just someone’s idea of what numbers will start your car. Just an educated guess by someone who does not have a clue what components you are running in your set-up. It’s not intended to drive on for any extended period of time. The same with that stock Honda computer. It could be ok but it could also be dangerously wrong.

 

So what exactly do I do at the first engine start-up? Pull the spark plugs and crank the motor with your starter for a maximum of 30 seconds or until you see the oil pressure gauge begin to register. Re-install the plugs and wires and fire up that candle. While keeping one eye on the oil pressure gauge, use your other eye to scan for fuel leaks. If there are no fuel leaks, look under the motor for any major oil or coolant leaks. If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpm’s between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning.

I know Bisimoto uses a specific break-in oil(Torco), and claim that it can be done in about 30 minutes using their dyno(If I remember correctly, it's not WOT pulls but just increased load on their dynapack).

 

This is from Earl at Laskey Racing:

Wow someone else who knew of Earl Laskey. I have that info saved on my hard drive. Earl was a great guy, may he RIP. Helped us out from time to time with the Civic. We have also had some dealings with Bisi. Another great talent.

BTW, you don't know Brad at RLZ do you ?

drive it like you stole it!

 

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

 

no joke, it's been proven in even 9sec race cars of friends. An initial heat cycle and drive and then flog it on the dyno and tune it ... Performs flawlesly! think about it, when a shop builds a motor and puts it on an engine dyno, do you really think they go through a simulated 500+ mile break-in?

 

I understand I'll get some hate for this post, but unorthodox ways of doing things usually are

I subscribe to this theory of break in to set the rings. Few modern motors need more than that. This plus the time on regular dino oil before switching to syn is key.

Let me throw out one more thing about 9 sec race cars. I have some friends that work that work at Patterson Racing. (Google them, they build all types af race motors, NASCAR, Sprint car, drag, etc.) There is a huge difference between a engine built to race and one built for the street. The quality of the parts used and the tolerances are not the same. Those engines are built for a specific purpose and they know exactly they will be torn down. A street motor is not. It is true that new rings break in much faster than old cast iron ones.

However, if it's your money and you want the motor to last, there is an old saying

" oil's cheap, iron is expensive" You beat on it and break it in a few hundred miles and you will be pissed. I had that experience about 15 years ago with a 468 that I built and put in my '68 Chevelle drag car. It still sits in my shop, I can't bring myself to junk it, I spent about $5000 building it and it broke after just 3 passes, I did just what some of you encourage, I didn't break it in and drove it like I stole it. It broke a valve and beat up 4 pistons and the head with the pieces. It was so stout it was still running on 7 cylinders and ran 9:16 at 129 mph, but had a tick in it. It never ran again.

Unless money is no object, break the motor in and protect your investment.

Let me throw out one more thing about 9 sec race cars. I have some friends that work that work at Patterson Racing. (Google them, they build all types af race motors, NASCAR, Sprint car, drag, etc.) There is a huge difference between a engine built to race and one built for the street. The quality of the parts used and the tolerances are not the same. Those engines are built for a specific purpose and they know exactly they will be torn down. A street motor is not. It is true that new rings break in much faster than old cast iron ones.

However, if it's your money and you want the motor to last, there is an old saying

" oil's cheap, iron is expensive" You beat on it and break it in a few hundred miles and you will be pissed. I had that experience about 15 years ago with a 468 that I built and put in my '68 Chevelle drag car. It still sits in my shop, I can't bring myself to junk it, I spent about $5000 building it and it broke after just 3 passes, I did just what some of you encourage, I didn't break it in and drove it like I stole it. It broke a valve and beat up 4 pistons and the head with the pieces. It was so stout it was still running on 7 cylinders and ran 9:16 at 129 mph, but had a tick in it. It never ran again.

Unless money is no object, break the motor in and protect your investment.

how would of breaking it in prevent the valve from breaking ?

First, of all thanks guys! Yea i know this is very controversial topic that will never end.

Yes, they do.

 

In reality, just pick a way to break it in and don't think twice.

 

Me? Change oil at 500mi, 1000mi, 1500mi, 3000mi and keep 3000-3500 OCI's. Keep it under 4k and out of boost until the 1k mark. Then go easy until 1500. Fair game after that.

I doubt many of these guys have ever owned a 9 sec race car. I haven't either, but I've owned a number of 10 sec street cars. '93 TT Supra (10.20 on drag radials), 92 GSX (10.80's on street tires), '03 Cobra (10,80's on drag radials), to name a few. I broke in all the motors in the same way.

Run good mineral oil for at least 1000-4000 miles. The heat cycling is to break in the cams, it affects nothing else and really unnecessary with OHC engines. To start, I would drive about 50 miles continuously, keeping the revs under 2500 and no more than 1/4 throttle. CHANGE THE OIL AND FILTER. Check the oil for metal content. It should have a silver sheen, but no bigger pieces, filter it through a paint strainer, they're cheap 10 cents maybe. If it looks good, start driving more normal, for 100-200 miles, then change it again, straining it, looking for anything but silver colored silt. Do it again at 500 miles, 1200 miles, 2000 miles, then 4000 miles.

If at any time you see metal chunks, take the strainer to your mechanic and let him see the shavings. Anything copper colored is a huge red flag, that's bearing material.

I'd hold off really beating on it for at least 500 miles. By 2000 miles, the oil should be clean of the silver. You can change over to synthetics sooner, but I wouldn't until you don't see silver in the oil. The silver is the rings seating up. Synthetic will take a lot longer to get rings broke in to seal, especially on a boosted engine.

Everybody has an opinion on this, but I was making over 600hp in the Supra and the Cobra, neither ever had a problem and I know the owners after I sold them.

My 2 cents.

Unless money is no object, break the motor in and protect your investment.

The shop should tell you their warranted break in method. If you have the money, have them do it on a dyno. If you dont, you have 2 choices:

1. Drive it like its stolen

2. Baby it

 

I've the same quandary, however, my builder has a schedule to follow. So I'm doing that. R&H will have a suggested break in schedule, too.

R&H Doesn't really have an official break-in schedule but they did recommend exactly what BAC5.2 & DirtyDan recommend. And just like Dan advised I want to break her in properly to protect my suby!

I get her back tomorrow and plan on driving her all wkend then do the oil change on monday and look for metal then at 150ish and 500 using dino. Then switch to motul at 1000 (as my R&H recomemded) and continue at 1500, and 3000. After that ill do the oil change every 3000-3500 miles.

How you guys feel about motul?

After that ill do the oil change every 3000-3500 miles.

I stick to 2-2.5k, but then again you are presumably staying mostly stock? In which case that interval would be significant overkill.

How you guys feel about motul?

dont have much personal experience with motul, but I see their name on racecars all the time so it must be damn good!

but then again its not T6.. and its definitely not Amsoil;)

no but in all seriousness, when your ready to switch to syn take a look at Shell Rotella T6 5-40. A favorite amongst the community, very good zinc + phosphorous content. diesel oil actually.

I stick to 2-2.5k, but then again you are presumably staying mostly stock? In which case that interval would be significant overkill.

 

 

dont have much personal experience with motul, but I see their name on racecars all the time so it must be damn good!

but then again its not T6.. and its definitely not Amsoil;)

 

no but in all seriousness, when your ready to switch to syn take a look at Shell Rotella T6 5-40. A favorite amongst the community, very good zinc + phosphorous content. diesel oil actually.

Over kill as in?? yes im going to stay stock. no new for big hp (dont need to money issues that come with it), if anything ill go stage 1 over the summer when im working again, might even go stage to if i can save up for a catless dp. but thats a long time from now. all i care about now is getting her back to stock and working again and making sure she'll last another 100k

Diesel oil? How does that work on gas engines?I thought diesel oil was to thick for gas engines?

How you guys feel about motul?

That's all I use. Good stuff.

when i was 14 i rebuilt a 350 sbc , in the confusion of modding the oil pan for it ot fit in my ford ranger we forgot the oil pump. we started and ran the motor for 10 min and then started it a few times more did a smoke show with it and such before we caught on.

finally installed the oil pump. motor ran great for ages and even sold it.

I have about 4 jugs of Rotella T synthetic right now(T and T6); I just grab them whenever they're on sale at Advance or find them cheap. They're a favorite among sport bikes too. Though, I'm a little worried about using them in a car with a catalytic converter since the higher phosphorus content causes shorter catalytic converter life(we use them in my brother's Civic and my Civic; both are catless).

In general, yes, diesel oils are a little thicker than gasoline but IIRC they're graded on the same scale so you can compare the thickness to regular oil(ie: 40w vs. 30w). Some diesel oils are rated for cars too. You'd probably lose a little power but gain a little more protection. One alternative is to just use a ZDDP additive in the oil you currently use.