Will Not Start

I have a "05" Legacy GT 2.5 Limited and while driving home not even a mile from work my car sputtered and then shut down. I checked all fluids and belts all good. Had car towed home and checked timing all good there also. With the timing being ok I tried to start it. The car turns over but I don't believe it is firing, I installed a new Crank Position Sensor hoping that would solve the issue but it didn't. Does anyone have any ideas it seems I have had this car in my garage more than on the road.

No Check engine light's ?

 

Did you make sure the battery terminals were clean and tight ?

 

How old is the battery ?

 

Next would be fuel pressure ?

 

Then do you have spark ?

If there's no CEL and the car is cranking but not starting you can try with some starter fluid - if it picks up and dies then I would aim at a fuel system problem, probably fuel pump unless you actually have an empty tank.

I have checked the battery and even tried starter fluid with no success, any other ideas welcoming all.

Can you try to pull codes?

 

How did you check the timing?

I suspect you have a fuel issue based on what you said about the car sputtering.

it ain't got no gas in it!

He tried starter fluid, but no go

You have an built-in onboard CEL reader that will tell you the codes your getting.

 

My guess without any CEL's its no gas or loose/corrosive battery cable.

you either lost spark or fuel since it sputtered. check your fuel pressure, and your spark. then go from there

bad fuel pump fuse??

Ok, let's start from the beginning, when you turn the key to on, do you hear the fuel pump prime ?

I have checked the battery and even tried starter fluid with no success, any other ideas welcoming all.

 

No ignition at all even though starter fluid makes me suspect the ignition then. At least it's good to start with that hypothesis and revise if needed.

 

Since there are individual coils or at least one coil per two cylinders I would start with checking the incoming signals to the coils to see if there's voltage in the connectors on the low voltage side. If no voltage when ignition is turned on I would check fuse #12 in the fuse box by the hood opening handle in the drivers compartment (should be the ignition fuse). Check if there's voltage at both sides of the fuse. If not then I would suspect the ignition lock, even though it seems a bit unlikely since that would have caused other problems. The colored wires in the following pictures are what you shall look at to begin with.

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-100.png

 

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-101.png

 

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-102.png

 

Make sure that pin 2 has a good ground connection for each of the spark plugs, otherwise there's a risk of high voltage firing back into the ECU and toasting it. Red wire in the picture shall always have +12V when ignition is on, the green wires shall be pulled to ground and released to produce a spark. Adding a small test bulb (or LED with an inline resistor, but watch the polarity in that case) between pin 1 and 3 and cranking the engine shall create a pulsing light for each spark.

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-103.png

 

If there's voltage already at the coils but no spark is produced and no pulsing light when using a test bulb then I would suspect the ECU to be bad - or that there is an in signal to the ECU that is missing. Removing an ignition coil and inserting a spark plug into it and making sure it's grounded you should be able to see a spark in the spark plug gap. Just make sure to ground both spark plug and coil before test cranking to avoid high voltage tracing into the ECU.

 

If there are sparks in the spark plug then I would go over to continue to suspect the fuel system, starting at the injectors to see if they have power through the Main Relay:

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-107.png

 

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-106.png

 

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-104.png

 

Here you check that there's 12V at pin 2 of each injector, and that there's a pulse when cranking between pin 1 and 2 of each injector. (a low wattage bulb or LED with a resistor shall work fine, same as for the ignition coils)

http://www.bedug.com/pics/Subaru/wiring-105.png

 

If you have pulses there as well, then it's time to look at the fuel pressure to make sure it is OK, since it may be the fuel pump that's bad - or you can simply be out of fuel.

 

Another issue that can be suspected if both ignition coils and injectors has pulses is that the timing is off because the cambelt has jumped for some reason, but you should have a code for that, so I suggest that you get a code reader in order to capture problems not only now but also in the future.

 

An continue with this thread if your hope is up: legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/wants-see-my-vacation-pixi-6216.html?p=4487789#post4487789

Well I got her going and I truely appreciate all the input. The issue is my turbo again the oil seal has gone out in it and is blowing thru into the intake which has killed my plugs and who knows what else. This is the third one I have put on my car and each time it has been a factory defect which they have made good. But never the less having to put them on and then finding it has issues has gottin old. I have had a time with this so I need recommendations on where to purchase a good and trustworthy turbo or someone who I can send this one to and have it reconditioned, it has less than 300 miles on it. I bought this car for running back and forth to work about 60 miles round trip a day and it doesn't get run hard.

I got my vf52 from Mike at http://www.AZPinstalls.com ordered on Tuesday, had it on Wednesday.

 

It's got over 31,000 miles and no shaft play.

 

I also have both banjo filters removed.

 

Something is killing your turbo's. fix that first.

Well I got her going and I truely appreciate all the input. The issue is my turbo again the oil seal has gone out in it and is blowing thru into the intake which has killed my plugs and who knows what else. This is the third one I have put on my car and each time it has been a factory defect which they have made good. But never the less having to put them on and then finding it has issues has gottin old. I have had a time with this so I need recommendations on where to purchase a good and trustworthy turbo or someone who I can send this one to and have it reconditioned, it has less than 300 miles on it. I bought this car for running back and forth to work about 60 miles round trip a day and it doesn't get run hard.

 

Check the oil pressure so it isn't too high - the pressure relief valve may be faulty.