Need a rebuild....

I know, this is the typical post. But I need a rebuild and I need the cheapest way out. I have 65 psi compression on cylinder #2, and the leak down test revealed its the engine and not the head. Im tearing the motor out and down to the block myself on Tuesday. I have no issue tearing down the engine, splitting the case, etc. My question is whats the best way to do this for under a grand. I dont intend on modifying the car, I have two kids and basically just need it back on the road as cheap as possible. The EJ257 shortblocks ive found that are used I dont trust because I cant tell if they have the same issue I currently have. I cant afford the $1700 for a new one, so that leaves me with the rebuild route. I can get the gasket set cheap ($150), I can get the block machined for $200, but what Im debating on is what piston/rod/bearing setup to go with. Do I just go with factory? Or is my best bet forged? Again money is tight, and I need to do this under a grand. The labor is free since I have all the tools to do this, just need opinions...

Im going to have it machined but does it make sense to replace with oem pistons, is that even possible? Or would it need larger pistons after the machine work

OEM pistons are fine, what you need when the engines back in the car, you need to get the car off the OEM MAP.

 

Get a street tune.

 

ACL bearings and stock rods will be ok. Get rings of choice and open the end gap up to the max Dia.

 

There is some talk of the factory end gap is to tight.

 

Do you have the tools to hold the cam while you remove the cam gear ?

Yeah. Already had heads off a few times

well I have the gasket kit already, the timing belt was just replaced as well. Thanks for the info, I really appreciate it.

Id replace the pistons with oem if your staying stock. You can find new take outs for like 100 bucks. My buddy has some pistons from his sti that have like 3000 miles on them that he might sell. While in there the only other thing id do is main bearings. Slap her together and your good to go.

Cheap fixes normally don't deal with all the problems. Cheapest is OEM. You'll probably have trouble down the road

Not modifying it. Ill replace with oem and get off the stock map as.suggested.

if just the #2 is bad (and by bad, are you thinking ring-land breakage?), but if your block can be machined, then you are in good shape as far as overall cost. $65 for mains and rod bearings, find a used piston that fits the bore that comes out. Going to re-hone the whole block and re-ring?

 

If I have any parts you can use, you're welcome to them. got a 107K motor that went BOOM, 2 of the pistons and rods look usable in a pinch.

 

If your stock rods are OK, you could re-use and then sport for forged pistons...

 

 

Useless sidenote: Last rebuild I did on a 93 EJ22 n/a motor, had over 190K and I reused the pistons.... fresh hone and new rings FTW. Those N/A motors are pretty bulletproof.

some people are telling me to split the case and get block machined, some are saying dont.....not sure which way to go

if just the #2 is bad (and by bad, are you thinking ring-land breakage?), but if your block can be machined, then you are in good shape as far as overall cost. $65 for mains and rod bearings, find a used piston that fits the bore that comes out. Going to re-hone the whole block and re-ring?

 

If I have any parts you can use, you're welcome to them. got a 107K motor that went BOOM, 2 of the pistons and rods look usable in a pinch.

 

If your stock rods are OK, you could re-use and then sport for forged pistons...

 

 

Useless sidenote: Last rebuild I did on a 93 EJ22 n/a motor, had over 190K and I reused the pistons.... fresh hone and new rings FTW. Those N/A motors are pretty bulletproof.

 

If he goes for anything larger then a stock piston, will the weight not be off and thus throw the motor out of balance?

He would have to do all of the pistons. But once again, I would recommend against it.

 

Thought so.

 

Why do you recommend against replacing all of them?

He can replace all the pistons with 99.5mm ones, but I would recommend against boring the block, for reasons I have already stated in this thread.

 

Ah> I thought you were against all new pistons.

Nah. I did new pistons (and just new pistons, HGs, and timing kit -- no other internals) on my 05.

 

Why didn't you fix the oil pick up problem?

 

My rebuild will include that, forged pistons, water pump, belts and HGs. Plus a new tune to address the cyl 4 timing issue.

What do the cylinders look like, because that's going to the deciding factor if you need to hone it or not. If there are large scrapes/scratches on the cylinder wall, then replacing the 1 piston is not going to help much.

What do the cylinders look like, because that's going to the deciding factor if you need to hone it or not. If there are large scrapes/scratches on the cylinder wall, then replacing the 1 piston is not going to help much.

 

 

 

I should know tomorrow. Im pulling the engine out then

I would not bore the block. I've heard talk of the block cracking if you do that. I also would not split the block and put in new bearings if you don't have to. .

 

Cracked blocks, that must be from a machining error. Shops bore these blocks all around the world.

 

I'm sure you know that. I know you know your stuff.

Good luck. I just finished up installing my rebuilt motor a month ago, due to the a similar issue. Had a budget of $3,000 since I was having forged pistions, ACL race bearings, new hoses, TOB, heads leveled, etc... Turns out I spent almost $4,000 once everything was said and done. I do plan to keep this car for a couple more years though.

Because my oil pickup was fine...

 

The "problem" only affected a small percentage of a certain production date range in the 2006 model year. The chances of it happening even in that range are slim.

 

 

 

This is true.

 

 

 

I dunno, maybe they are fine with a really, really conservative tune, but I've seen a fair number of people who bored their block come back on the forums with cracks in the cylinder walls a few months later. The walls are thin as it is, and they're too thin if you take off more material. I don't know if it's knock that kills them, or just normal combustion stresses.

 

My shop wont give me a warranty if I don't replace the oil pick up. The kit was cheap so I said yes.