Need a little help- Boost Gauge Install?

Yeah, first turbo car here, about to go stage 2 and purchase one of the Prosport (electronic) gauges and an AVO pod, the instructions that came with the Prosport leave a little to be desired. Anyone have any pic to where you plumb in the T and the best place to wire things in?

 

I am good with things like up-pipes and downpipes, but a dummy when it comes to electronic things

Here's a post on the wiring...............

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59748&highlight=prosport+wiring

 

Try the search feature at top right of the screen for the pressure tap, I'm sure someone must have covered this.

T-fitting goes prior to the BOV, located under the engine cover on the drivers side (towards the windshield). You dont need to remove the cover b/c its located right at the top corner. Cut the tube going into the BOV and place your T there.

 

EDIT: I believe there is a different procedure needed to install an electronic guage, but I could be wrong.

btw .. the avo gauge pod is nice .. but I had issues with it staying in one place .. and if you remove it .. it leaves black crap all over your a-pillar ... what I did was , I built a base for the bottom and tape it to the dash.

btw, I can show you how I have mine hooked up if your making it to the meet on the 26th.

I would love to take a look at it, do you have it so the colors match?

 

Is the meet posted over at AZAWD.org?

its on nasioc.com .. but its at avondale subaru from 10-3 on the 26th

I discovered a fantastic place to run the vacuum line into the driver's side footwell. All you need to do it is a clothes hanger and some tape to tape the line to the hanger. It looks so good rather than draping it across the engine bay into the passenger compartment and all the way back. I'll take a picture and post it up. It makes it so the stock 6' of vacuum line are enough to make it to where the AVO pod goes with a foot of line to spare. It also helps when installing the AVO pod to take a short drywall screw and screw the left half of the pod into your A-pillar. It just helps to keep it in place and snug up against the pillar. The screw barely leaves a mark in the fabric on the pillar if you ever decide to take the AVO pod out.

Here are a few pictures. A couple are a little hard to see, but under the dash just to the left of the clutch pedal behind some sound deadening is a rubber grommet that you can poke through with a coat hanger that will also poke through the sound deadening. Then you just tape the vacuum line to the other end of the coat hanger (it slides over the hanger) and pull it into the foot well. If you have more questions, let me know and I'll try to be more specific.

I guess the foot well picture didn't make it into the mix. It was all fuzzy anyway...

Here's a link to my website with a write-up that I did.

 

Look at step 25 and 26 for the picture of where to tee off from the Air Bypass Valve (ABV).

 

http://www.sonic.net/zinfreak/omori_boost_gauge.htm

Here's my boost gauge install how-to: http://jsalmi.com/car/boostgauge/

You guys rock, I love this community!!

Hey, I found this thread using the search button, and I'm doing the install this week, but I was wondering before I go to Autozone tomorrow, what is the inner diameter of the omori nylon hose? I gotta buy some longer hoses, but the box with all the install stuff is at the place where I'm getting it installed, so I can't bring in the original hose and compare. Any help with the hose's inner diameter?

Hey JohnAWD, where did you hook up the ground side of your gauge?

 

I see you have the power hooked up to the fuse on the acc. but i need

to run the ground from the same location.

These install pics have been helpful but I was wondering where the closest wires I can tap into for power. I will be installing an electronic Pro sport boost gauge on my steering column. I was also wondering what the electronic sensor needs to be wired to.

Here's my boost gauge install how-to: http://jsalmi.com/car/boostgauge/

 

Very nice walkthrough, I will refer to this when I get around to this mod, thanks a bunch

Here are a few pictures. A couple are a little hard to see, but under the dash just to the left of the clutch pedal behind some sound deadening is a rubber grommet that you can poke through with a coat hanger that will also poke through the sound deadening. Then you just tape the vacuum line to the other end of the coat hanger (it slides over the hanger) and pull it into the foot well. If you have more questions, let me know and I'll try to be more specific.

 

I looked all over the footwell and couldn't find the grommet. There is a bunch of rubber sound deadening in the area and it's hard to move around and look under.

 

I think I found your entrance point from the engine bay, but I can't find where it enters the cabin. I'll have to wait until it gets a little warmer and get out there again. Or get a longer vacuum line and go witch an easier route in the passenger footwell I heard about.

Here's my boost gauge install how-to: http://jsalmi.com/car/boostgauge/

 

This is the walkthough I used...JohnAWD...you be the man.

 

I have this exact setup...it works tip top!!

if you get a t-fitting at autozone, is that alright too? i've been reading about restrictor pills in the t-fittings...

i got a used gauge from a friend with nothing else....

It should work, but I believe that restrictor eliminates any flutter of the needle.

Reviving this thread for some help;

 

Today I installed a Prosport Electrical Boost Gauge. I followed the wiring instructions from LGT Dave. I am pretty sure something is wrong however.

 

The instructions from Prosport were nearly useless. I made all connections behind the cubby from the Trip computer. Some of the install directions didn't make sense however;

 

Bold=LGT Dave

regular text=Me

 

Quote:The Yellow/Red wire running to the back of the Clock/Trip Computer is what you're looking for. Actually, all the connections you needed are on the wiring harness for the Clock/Trip Computer. Here's how I wired mine:

-The Red wires from both the back of the gauge and the sensor run to the Yellow/Red wire on the trip computer.

 

The wire I have from Prosport simply plugs into the sensor and into the back of the gauge. Then the power wires head over to the Cubby.

 

-The White wire from the back of the guage also goes to the Yellow/Red wire on the trip computer(for white illumination on the guage).

-The Black ground wires from both the guage and the sensor run to the Black/Yellow wire on the trip computer.

-The white wire from the guage connects to the green wire on the sensor.

 

The gauge reads -20 at idle and Hit a max of 16lbs of boost while driving. Most of the time, it sits at - 20 to 0. It's been a while since I have had a boost gauge in a car, so I can't remember if this is normal.

 

I mounted the sensor nearly on top of the battery, so I am wondering if that might be throwing the readings off.

 

 

Also, I have tried several times to Mute the sound on the start up, but it comes back everytime. According to the Prosport site, I probably don't have it wired to a constant 12v. even though I hooked it up according to LGT Dave above.

 

Sorry for the novel, I just want this to work correctly. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance.

- is vaccuum, + is boost. Seems like things are a-OK...we run in vaccuum until we hit boost. 16lbs is OK for stage 1.

I am at stage 2. Cobb UP& catted DP, AP Cobb 91 oct tune, K&N panel filter. Also, next week I am installing a Borla CBE.

 

How about shutting off the Peak warning sound at start-up? That sound is killing me!

OK, electronics and me obviously don't mix. I attempted to find the constant 12v wire with my multimeter.

 

I touched the Yellow/Red stripe wire and the new gauge made a crackling noise(blown fuse sound) and went dead.

 

I wired it to another wireand the guage works again, but now and now my radio, trip computer and over head lights are dead. All of those are more important to me than this boost gauge. Help please.