My Tuning Thread

Hey guys. I'm just starting this thread to track the progression of my tune and keep all the info in one place. I'll give a rundown of my mods and post a log or two of my current tune and ask for suggestions on any problems I'm running into. I'm using StreetTuner-Advanced at the moment for most of the tuning.

 

I've got a 05 LGT 5MT with the following mods installed:

 

Engine/Power:

AEM CAI

Perrin 2.4 Turbo Inlet

Perrin TMIC/BOV

GTSPEC Header/UP

AutoSpeed HFC DP

SPT V2 CBE

DW 740cc Injectors

SPEC Stg2 Clutch/LWFW

LC-1 WBO2(incorrectly reading waaaaay rich right now)

 

Other Mods:

Boost and Oil Press. Gauges

H-techs on new OE struts

Hawk HPS Brake Pads

Progress F/R SwayBars

Perrin Endlinks

Perrin STS

 

I'm sure there are more mods, but those are the one's the really matter. I'll post a current log for y'all to look at. I'm getting ready to put on my DB 20g Zilla as soon as I get the tranny re-built and I'm looking for some suggestions on where to take it from here.

I'm pretty sure I have the timing curve dialed in for my car. The DA/KC stays pegged to the same number all the way from initial WOT to redline. It may change when adjustments are made, but it's consistant across the RPM/load ranges.

 

The biggest problem I'm having right now is that RPMs tend to dip below 750 when I put the clutch and the R's fall to idle. The RPM's will drop below 750 and then bounce up and down a couple times before settling down to 750ish. I've adjusted the mid-low RPM Zero throttle values to 3.49ish in the TDC table to help compensate for my LWFW, but it still dips to 500 once in a while when coming to a stop.

 

Attached is a log from last night. Take a look and let me know what you think. I know I can add some more timing as this log was taken with a mix of 5gal 93oct and 5 gal 100oct giving about 96oct. I just bumped up my DA from 6 to 8 right before this log. It was taken within a few miles of an ECU reset and map reload. After this log, I went and added 2 degrees across my BASE timing curve and left DA at 8, but I haven't been able to go out and drive/log it yet. The log is pretty selective, but it should give you an idea of what's going on.

 

Do the save as and rename bit to view it.

3rd_gear_0629_234151.pdf

I just took a quick look at it (I will leave the specifics to the VF40 tuning experts). Looks pretty good.

 

Couple things I noticed:

 

-boost seems to come on a bit late for a VF40, what is your elevation/temp of the log?

-you still have the 3 degrees timing comp B table (which is likely fine)

-total timing does seem a bit low to me, I would imagine you could add in some more

 

As far as the LWFW is concerned, you could try upping the idle to 850-900 rpm. That may help a lot.

 

As far as the LWFW is concerned, you could try upping the idle to 850-900 rpm. That may help a lot.

 

I don't have experience with a LWFW (5eat here) but on my winter map I bumped the idle to 850 rpms. Set at 750 it was somewhat lumpy and actually stalled a few times from a stoplight. Bumping it that 100 rpms made it smooth all winter long.

I'm at 800ft elevation and the logs were taken at about 85F and 80% humidity. I haven't played with the AVCS yet(still 26/26/25/25/19/18/10/10/8/5/0), so that may have something to do with the spool and peak boost. I also lost a couple hundrred RPMs of spool with my UL header/UP. I guess I need to figure out how to tune for it:redface:.

I ended up adding 4 more degrees across the timing curve, but ran out of race fuel mix and time, so I'll have to come back to that map later(maybe). I was just trying to see how far I could push it on some good gas. It was still knock free after allowing for 6 degrees more timing and leaning out the richest part of my AFR curve. My car seems to come alive when the octane goes above 95. It loves to give a randon knock now and then on the 93oct I get. I could just keep adding more and more timing on that 1:1 93/100 mix.

I messed around with the idle when I first started tuning, but couldn't get it to go up to 900 and stick; it got really weird for a while, so I put it back to stock values. I see 3 idle tables in Romraider, but there are 6 idle tables in ST-A(which is what I'm using). Which ones should I change or do I just make all 6 the same?

Do you guys think I should put my Prodrive BCS and/or my 15psi actuator and learn to tune for them on the VF40 before I put on the 20g and start tuning it?

I'm at 800ft elevation and the logs were taken at about 85F and 80% humidity. I haven't played with the AVCS yet(still 26/26/25/25/19/18/10/10/8/5/0), so that may have something to do with the spool and peak boost. I also lost a couple hundrred RPMs of spool with my UL header/UP. I guess I need to figure out how to tune for it:redface:.

I ended up adding 4 more degrees across the timing curve, but ran out of race fuel mix and time, so I'll have to come back to that map later(maybe). I was just trying to see how far I could push it on some good gas. It was still knock free after allowing for 6 degrees more timing and leaning out the richest part of my AFR curve. My car seems to come alive when the octane goes above 95. It loves to give a randon knock now and then on the 93oct I get. I could just keep adding more and more timing on that 1:1 93/100 mix.

I messed around with the idle when I first started tuning, but couldn't get it to go up to 900 and stick; it got really weird for a while, so I put it back to stock values. I see 3 idle tables in Romraider, but there are 6 idle tables in ST-A(which is what I'm using). Which ones should I change or do I just make all 6 the same?

Do you guys think I should put my Prodrive BCS and/or my 15psi actuator and learn to tune for them on the VF40 before I put on the 20g and start tuning it?

 

I put my Prodrive BCS in and learned to tune for it on the stock turbo. I also installed the DW injectors and AVO FP. When it came time for the turbo I already had some of the tuning done and had gained experience.

 

As for your idle issue; ever since I did a couple of things with my AVCS, things we are "forbidden" to do, my idle has become one of the more pleasant and 'visible' aspects of my present tune. Look there.... after you are satisfied your injectors are tuned, although for me there wasn't much tuning involved for the injectors.

 

Don't tune timing until everything else is done. Keep it safely within the boundary of knock, even random.

 

The Intake Calibration may need attention in the lower sector where idle lives.

I'm curious as to what "forbidden" things you did with your AVCS settings that improved idle. I've tried a few things with little improvement and would love to smooth out my rough idle.

 

I put my Prodrive BCS in and learned to tune for it on the stock turbo. I also installed the DW injectors and AVO FP. When it came time for the turbo I already had some of the tuning done and had gained experience.

 

As for your idle issue; ever since I did a couple of things with my AVCS, things we are "forbidden" to do, my idle has become one of the more pleasant and 'visible' aspects of my present tune. Look there.... after you are satisfied your injectors are tuned, although for me there wasn't much tuning involved for the injectors.

 

Don't tune timing until everything else is done. Keep it safely within the boundary of knock, even random.

 

The Intake Calibration may need attention in the lower sector where idle lives.

I can't do it now, but tomorrow I'll get a screenshot of my AVCS table and provide some background.

I put my Prodrive BCS in and learned to tune for it on the stock turbo. I also installed the DW injectors and AVO FP. When it came time for the turbo I already had some of the tuning done and had gained experience.

 

As for your idle issue; ever since I did a couple of things with my AVCS, things we are "forbidden" to do, my idle has become one of the more pleasant and 'visible' aspects of my present tune. Look there.... after you are satisfied your injectors are tuned, although for me there wasn't much tuning involved for the injectors.

 

Don't tune timing until everything else is done. Keep it safely within the boundary of knock, even random.

 

The Intake Calibration may need attention in the lower sector where idle lives.

 

I started this tune with all the listed mods including the DW740s(which have been real stable so far), but I used the stock intake to dial in the injectors and then the MAF scale. I got the A/F trims within +/-2% as far up the scalee as I could on the road. I got everything dialed in close enough that the stock O2 sensor and the WBO2 were real close in closed loop. I also got it to where the requested AFR and the WBO2 AFR were almost exact at any given point in the RPM/LOAD range.

 

I then started working on exdtending the load range in the tables and dialed in the timing until I had no knock at all no matter the situation. This is the reason for the low timing numbers. I gave her what she wanted. My timing curve must be real close to right for this car because when I'd up the boost targets I'd go from 6's to 5's all the way down the log, then I'd just lower timing in the cells of the curve by ~1 degree and all 6's again. I don't get any DA drift and zero FBKC so I think I'm pretty safe. Oh, also I'm running slightly rich @~10.78 @ my richest point.

 

Then I put the AEM on, used the multiplier and then adjusted the MAF scale until the A/F trims were back within +/-2% and then worked my way up the scale again and then made final adjustments from logs. Again my requested and actual AFRs matched almost exactly until the middle of one log when my LC-1 went weird and started reading 9.2AFR's or 20.33 above 15psi of boost.

 

I'm kinda using this tuning time on the VF40 as prep for the 20g, so I'd like to learn the Prodrive BCS and get my 15psi actuator dialed in. It would have to make adjusting for the new turbo much easier. I've lost count of the number of revisions I've done in the last month:rolleyes:. It's just never ending.

I can't do it now, but tomorrow I'll get a screenshot of my AVCS table and provide some background.

 

Yes, please post it here.

I can't do it now, but tomorrow I'll get a screenshot of my AVCS table and provide some background.

 

 

 

I'm not ignoring you, but the subject is more complicated than that. I have half what I want to use to illustrate, the rest I'll get.

 

Basically, you can't have your cake and eat it, too. An AVCS tuned for great driving, no stutter, and smooth idle is a wonderful thing.... until you factor in gas mileage. The emissions issue can be overlooked if you have no guilt, but the loss of gas mileage cannot be, anymore.

 

So while I can post the one, I haven't gotten the screenshots of the other yet. I will. The map I run represents my solution, an AVCS that optimizes gas mileage, smoothes idle, removes stutter, and still keeps high load areas adjusted for power. But it isn't the one I would run if I didn't have to consider either gas mileage or emissions.

 

AVCS tuning has some general rules that should be honored. But in the final analysis each car will be happiest with an AVCS map tailored specifically for it. The turbo, headers, exhaust, and other factors combined make each car's needs unique, and what works best for one will not for another.

I'm not ignoring you, but the subject is more complicated than that. I have half what I want to use to illustrate, the rest I'll get.

 

Basically, you can't have your cake and eat it, too. An AVCS tuned for great driving, no stutter, and smooth idle is a wonderful thing.... until you factor in gas mileage. The emissions issue can be overlooked if you have no guilt, but the loss of gas mileage cannot be, anymore.

 

So while I can post the one, I haven't gotten the screenshots of the other yet. I will. The map I run represents my solution, an AVCS that optimizes gas mileage, smoothes idle, removes stutter, and still keeps high load areas adjusted for power. But it isn't the one I would run if I didn't have to consider either gas mileage or emissions.

 

AVCS tuning has some general rules that should be honored. But in the final analysis each car will be happiest with an AVCS map tailored specifically for it. The turbo, headers, exhaust, and other factors combined make each car's needs unique, and what works best for one will not for another.

 

You are absolutely right.

 

I have found the AVCS the hardest thing to tune. I think i get it right for best power, but then differeng temps cause me to find a nother propfile that seems to work best.

I finally got around to installing my Prodrive BCS. I should have done it months ago! I can actually hit target boost without spikes and valleys. My WGDCs are now about 2/3 of the stock values(OE BCS 87%=ProDrive 54%) and it holds soooo steady. I think I'm within .5% WGDC of having it to where I can hit boost targets across third without overboosting in 4th and 5th at lower RPMs. I'll post a log once I get dialed in a little closer.

Nice to hear! I went to a smaller pill and dropped duty cycles similar to yours but I still get a 1psi spike in 4th/5th.

 

I want to see some AVCS tables tuned for mileage and one for power.

I want to see some AVCS tables tuned for mileage and one for power.

 

The AVCS for power is easy, however mileage would take a bit more time.

Still messing with the Prodrive. I've had to play with the AVCS a little to get boost smoothed out again, but she's running good. I think I'm going to have to go back and rework all my timing too. I had to drop DA from 8 to 6 when I first started adjsting for the Prodrive BCS cause it was overboosting and knocking. I've got all the knock out of it, but it just seems like it takes forever to get from 5K RPMs- to redline and it's just not digging in on the low end grunt.

Logs are smooth, consistent and repeateable(will post soon); but again it just feels weak up top. Maybe my boost is too high:confused:. Basically I hit 16psi at 3K, 17.69 by 3200RPMs and drop to 17psi by 4K RPMs, then drop to 15psi by 5KRPMs and on down to 11psi-ish at redline. I'm hitting boost targets and not overboosting in 4th or 5th.

 

I'll just post a log or two so you guys can see what's going on.

Do you have a stock turbo? If so, probably just the turbo running out of gas at the high rpms. That was the one improvement from my VF40 18G...it can go to redline and still pull...the stocker can't. Then again, I lost a little spool so it's kind of a toss up.

Boostsr (and all), Interesting on the pill...have wondered if I run into WGDC running too high, is it better to try a pill change, or go with a prodrive.

The pill is perfectly fine and cheaper, that being said I run the Prodrive:p

I ran the 1mm pill with my vf40/18g and still do on my 18G with a 10psi wastegate spring. If your maxxing around 80 or so to hold the boost you want then go ahead and switch it.

 

 

EDIT: Qik, is your DA table flattened out? If it is, when you run into knock you'll want to pull timing from the base map rather than dropping the entire DA table. That could account for some of the lost power up top (2 degrees is significant). Also, if your running more boost than before, you may just be pushing the vf40 too hard and its blowing flames. If you are running more boost, go back to what you were running before and add your timing back. There is a fine line of timing/boost, especially when your pushing the limits of a vf40.

Now that I can actually hit boost targets:), I'll have to rework it all. I'll probably just call it quits on the VF40 and put the 20G Zilla on and start over from scratch. I just wanted to get the feel of the Prodrive BCS before the swap.

I have a good base timing curve that ran clean across the board (in many revisions) until I made the Prodrive change. I just had DA at 8 for a while until I upped the boost and picked up a couple -2.00's in FBKC in different locations; so I just took the whole DA table back to 6's to be safe while messing with the WGDC's. I just haven't gone back to push up the timing in the knock free cells.

Shortly after I put the 20g on; I'll be hitting a Dyno to tune it right from the start. It's just such a PITA trying to find the balance between peak boost and best timing on the street flying solo. Tweak map, log, park, read log, tweak, log, park, read log, tweak ....

It's just such a PITA trying to find the balance between peak boost and best timing on the street flying solo. Tweak map, log, park, read log, tweak, log, park, read log, tweak ....

Thats the name of the game

Yeah I wouldn't even bother with the vf40 anymore, once you have a grasp on everything it really is all the same.

Thanks. I think that's where I'm at. I've been through several dozen map revisions in the last two months and I think I've covered pretty much all the options. Some feel/look better than others in different areas, but they're pretty much all right in the same neighborhood when it's all said and done.The VF40 as been a great learning tool, but I think I'm off to bigger and better turbo's now.

 

I'll revive this when I get the new turbo bolted on. I just won't have time to install it until after Labor Day weekend.

It time for a revival. As you can see this has been going on for a while now.

My turbo will be going on Sunday.

Here is the list of things done so far:

 

1. Exhuast: GT Spec Header/UP, Invidia Cattless DP(new w/WBO2 bung), SPT Catback

2. Perrin Parts: Turbo Inlet/TMIC

3. AEM CAI

4. DW 740cc Injectors(installed and tuned on VF40)

5. Prodrive BCS

6. New Plugs: 1 step cooler

7. New Hoses and Coolant flush

8. New Belts

9. STI Motor Mounts, Tranny Mount, AP Pitchstop

10. Oil/Filter Change

11. Suspension/Brakes: Hawk HPS pads, H-techs, Progress Sways, Perrin Endlinks

12. LC-1 WBO2, Boost/Oil Press./EGT/AFR Gauges

13. Cobb APv1 With StreetTuner-Advanced(my own maps/tune)/RR

14. Compression test: Cold engine 120psi across the cyliners

 

Here's what I've got left:

1. Deadbolt TD06h-20G Zilla Turbo with braided oil line and 15psi actuator

2. Gaksets, gaskets and more gaskets

3. AVO LCA/Steering Rack bushings

4. Leaky oil pan to check out

 

I'm sure I left a couple things out, but does it sound like I've got everything covered? I just don't want to discover that I've forgotten something in the middle of the swap. I'll pick up and oil change today and think about it some more. If you see anything that might be a concern, PLEASE say something and I'll address it.