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Morimoto 3Five bulbs vs DDM Raptor bulbs


tito_b0y

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Might as well start a new topic about this in case any one else were wondering. Original post here.

 

Alright, here's what I got:

 

1 set DDM Raptors 55w 4500k bulbs

1 set Morimoto 3Five 4300k bulbs

 

This experiment has been done with only the 55w Raptor ballasts.

 

A few questions: Is there that much of a difference in 200k? Could it be the DDM's aren't really 4500k? Or is it because the Morimoto bulbs are rated only for 35w ballasts (as stated over at the TRS page)?

 

I've read somewhere that the wattage doesn't depend on the bulb, but on the ballasts; is this true? Or are certain bulbs 'capped' to 35w?

 

Gonna wait until I get new caps to drill to permanently run these HIDs. I did the clean install (without drilling) with my previous DDM slim kit, but this time, I want to make it easier to swap bulbs in and out :cool:

 

Comparison shots, sorry, I don't own a fancy shmancy camera :redface: :

 

First is with Osram H7 65w bulbs

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112964&stc=1&d=1329944037

 

 

Next, is a comparison shot between the DDM and Morimoto bulbs respectively with 55w Raptor ballasts

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112965&stc=1&d=1329944037

 

Bulb comparison side by side; Morimoto/DDM

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112966&stc=1&d=1329944037

 

Broken clips of the DDM, er, wires :spin:

http://legacygt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=112967&d=1329943657

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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+1 to your post.

 

I was originally on ddm 4500k 35w.

 

Just purchased the 3Five 4300k bulbs and noticed light output is whiter. Coming from the 4500k ddm bulbs, they had a bluer tint to them. So in this case the 200k did matter, but I do wonder, at the 4300-4500k range, the difference should not be that much.

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You have to cut past the o-ring. Also the cut past the o-ring is not very much, just enough for the wire to fit, it requires some pressure getting the cap to screw back on. overall everything is tight enough so water should not leak in, and its all plastic so it should not cut into the wires

 

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/IMG_0834.jpg?t=1330215250

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/IMG_0832.jpg?t=1330215231

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/IMG_0835.jpg?t=1330215263

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/IMG_0831.jpg?t=1330215233

http://i596.photobucket.com/albums/tt49/underground000/IMG_0833.jpg?t=1330215250

5eat downshift rev match:):wub:

Powder coated wheels: completed:)

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^ thats neat. I bought my setup from a member on here, so he included a set of drilled caps for me.

 

If I were to do this on my own set, I would go this route. Any seal problems though?

 

nope, I made the cut just enough for the wire to stick out. the o-ring compresses when you screw tighten the cap, so that helps to seal. if your worried, use some silicone or something...

5eat downshift rev match:):wub:

Powder coated wheels: completed:)

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^ mine didn't go out yet, but my driver one started getting deposits inside the bulb, thus it took more amperage to fire, so I had the driver one not fire once in a while. 3 years of use. no complaints. Using the same ddm ballast's with new morimoto 3Five bulbs.
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My DDM 35w slims are still going strong since November 2007 (gave them to a friend to run in his Pontiac) on the same bulbs.

 

Before I take my kitchen scissors to them, I'm curious, Underground and Squiden, what did you use to notch the caps? Dremel?

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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My DDM 35w slims are still going strong since November 2007 (gave them to a friend to run in his Pontiac) on the same bulbs.

 

Before I take my kitchen scissors to them, I'm curious, Underground and Squiden, what did you use to notch the caps? Dremel?

 

Pretty much a Dremel, an off name brand I bought a few years ago.

5eat downshift rev match:):wub:

Powder coated wheels: completed:)

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Are you going to be using stock optics? Just wondering as I am still on stock optics. I think I need to re-aim them. They are a tid bit high, but my DDM's I never noticed it as much, so maybe these are that much brighter than my last set.

 

Yep, still on stock optics/projectors. The Morimoto retro-quick projectors are on my list though. As soon as I grow a pair to take the headlights apart :lol:

 

Pretty much a Dremel, an off name brand I bought a few years ago.

 

Ah, looks like I'll have to source one from my friends then. Or maybe even improvise with a drill somehow...

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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How I used to cut plastic, use a new sharp exacto knife. should be able to 'slice down' to cut into the plastic.

 

Be very careful, and if you can clamp it down instead of holding it, happened a few times where the exacto slipped and I cut myself

5eat downshift rev match:):wub:

Powder coated wheels: completed:)

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So I used a pair of pruning shears which worked perfectly. The utility knife I used to score the plastic for the shears to follow.

 

I also ended up using the Morimotos with the DDMs as backup. Will see how long they last. I do have the harness from DDM, but didn't install. I may pick up TRS' harness instead if I start to encounter any problems.

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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^35w or 55w ballasts? I also noticed the right side looking just a little different. I don't know how to describe it other than just being a tad less bright than the left...

2006 SWP 3.0R 5EAT VDC BBQ

 

2008 OBP 2.5i 4EAT BBQ [RIP]

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