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Life of stock vf40 turbo


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I can only speak for myself, but my vf40 from my 05, has 90k on it, and still works perfectly. There were no leaks, no cracks and it was still very clean (heat shields work wonders). I replaced it with a Rallitek Turn-key package, that was the only reason I removed it. Oh, and I ran stage 2 for 60K of the 90K that I put on it. Although there are MANY people here on the threads that have blown turbos VERY early on, so it seems to be a toss up.
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I'm one of the few who have over 100k on my car. as of today I have 126k on it. I just changed out my turbo only for piece of mind.

 

when I took the turbo out i was pleased to see there was no play in the wheel and it looked good.

 

I replaced it with a used turbo with 18k on it and there was a noticeable difference on torque. so my old turbo probably wasn't spooling efficiently?? think that's correct anyways.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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Guest PeteAWD
I ate few of them on my trip up to 96k (current). Only one was for a bearing failure at 22k. The other was the wastegate lever binding. It is very, very important to change the oil frequently, especially if you drive aggressively.
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Guest PeteAWD
TSB 05' LGT turbocharged engine care-Alldata states that is reccomended to let the vehicle idle for a minute or so after HEAVY load driving. Meaning well if you were just beating on it, let the oil and coolant circulate for a bit to lower the engine temp. Reving the engine before shutting it off? I never heard that, that would just increase the engine operating temp, which is what we are trying to avoid.
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i warm up and cool down my engine pretty much regardless of how i drive. there is a noticeable difference is how it runs, especially in a cold state like MN. and i believe if you are doing heavy driving that increases the operating temp and letting it cool down would allow that temperature to drop since the engine components are not moving nearly as fast or much. could be wrong though.
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Guest PeteAWD
As soon as I saw that comment in my E mail, "I said yup, that's Rob". He doesn't like hearing the "what if my engine or vehicle breaks down". He really hates that.
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i warm up and cool down my engine pretty much regardless of how i drive. there is a noticeable difference is how it runs, especially in a cold state like MN. and i believe if you are doing heavy driving that increases the operating temp and letting it cool down would allow that temperature to drop since the engine components are not moving nearly as fast or much. could be wrong though.

No need to warm the car up for more than a minute. Doing so is actually counter productive. It takes longer to warm up and thus the engine operates at cold for longer, fuel dillution, etc etc. Just drive under 3K until it warms up and you are good to go.

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Guest PeteAWD

Yes it's the simple issue of friction. Less engine speed, less friction, and as the engine fans run and the oil and coolant circulate the engine temp drops. Regarding the turbo, most important is keeping the bearing cool, that's what usually overheats and fails.

 

i warm up and cool down my engine pretty much regardless of how i drive. there is a noticeable difference is how it runs, especially in a cold state like MN. and i believe if you are doing heavy driving that increases the operating temp and letting it cool down would allow that temperature to drop since the engine components are not moving nearly as fast or much. could be wrong though.
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nice. i might check with one place by my house, what do, or should, used ones with 10-20k cost?

 

 

I paid $350 for mine. got it from someone here.

258k miles - Stock engine/minor suspension upgrades/original shocks/rear struts replaced at 222k/4 passenger side wheel bearings/3 clutches/1 radiator/3 turbos
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