bgLGT Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 Do any of you guys have a scan of your install instructions? I have some used stock struts that my friend is going to powdercoat Koni yellow for me and was hoping to have them prepped for him while I wait on my inserts to be shipped. I'm pretty familiar with the generic procedure, but I'm not sure how much to cut off the top of the strut, or of any other legacy specific housing mods. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvento Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 the only thing I now is u go not have to cut the bump-stop I don't know if that helps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuace Posted October 19, 2007 Share Posted October 19, 2007 I should have mine on Monday, if no one else has posted theirs up by then I will scan mine and put them up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgLGT Posted October 19, 2007 Author Share Posted October 19, 2007 I really appreciate it, that would help me alot! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuace Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Here you go. The bad news....these are the worst install instructions I have ever seen . The good news....adjustable front and rear struts :spin:. http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j274/isuace/koni-instructions-side2.jpg http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j274/isuace/koni-instructions-side1.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgLGT Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 isuace, thanks a bunch! I'm going to get to work on these bad boys tomorrow. I talked to my friend who will be powder coating them for me last night. I think we found a pretty good match. Can't wait to get these on! What springs are you going to run? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgLGT Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 ok so: 1) take all the crap off the car 2-3) I marked the center with a center punch and used a 1/8 in bit to de-pressurize since it was way easier to find than a 3mm. I didn't cover it with tape; but I did wear eye protection. I didn't have any oil blow back at me, just nitrogen. I also started with blown struts so this may vary 4) Can't tell too sure if L1 is 36, 46, 56, 66mm, but it appears that you measure your insert to the line or nub ( I don't have any in front of me. I'm assuming its a nub or ring for an interference fit) then look up the corresponding L2 value. I'm guessing we need to cut ours either 30 or 40mm. I'm planning on marking that around with masking tape. LOL at using a hack saw and sawing to a depth of 2.5 mm; I'm going to use the band saw in the university machine shop here and go straight through that mofo. If I lose the piston down in the shock body, I'll blow it out with shop air. 5) toss all the useless stuff away. 6) enlarge the hole you drilled to 14mm 7) file the inside of the tube flush where welds from the spring perch/brake line bracket puddled through. 8) install rubber sleeve and c-clip? would need to see parts 9) tighten and torque 10) ok now I have no clue, does that say to reuse the bump stop, dust boot, or both. Don't use the cracked or damaged butt plug !!?! 11) Reinstall and torque, DON'T use an impact or you may damage the piston rod. It's hollow on these Koni's to allow for the adjustment tab. 12) What do you mean you didn't mark the camber adjustment bolt, oops. Nice of Koni to put that in AFTER you have the car apart. Great one Koni. 13) drive the hell out of it!! That may or may not help...that's my interpretation, 4 and 10 are kinda confusing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuace Posted October 23, 2007 Share Posted October 23, 2007 Don't use the cracked or damaged butt plug !!?! :lol::lol: I think you pretty much got it. The instructions for the rear have the same picture..I think they mean don't use a damage dust cover . I will try to measure my inserts tonight and see where that bump is. That is where it seats against the top of the cut strut. Did you see the walkthrough thread on Nasty cocks? It was linked to in the other big Koni thread. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgLGT Posted October 24, 2007 Author Share Posted October 24, 2007 Did you see the walkthrough thread on Nasty cocks I did take a look at that, it seems pretty straight forward. Seeing the pictures makes me want them infront of me so much more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kleggo Posted October 29, 2007 Share Posted October 29, 2007 the only thing I now is u go not have to cut the bump-stop I don't know if that helps. that's pretty funny you wrote " I don't know if that helps " my guess = no :lol: be safe kleggo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvento Posted October 30, 2007 Share Posted October 30, 2007 that's pretty funny you wrote " I don't know if that helps " my guess = no :lol: be safe kleggo you are so funny Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgLGT Posted November 4, 2007 Author Share Posted November 4, 2007 Well my set came in, cut the struts last Thursday at the university machine shop. Actually, it took alot longer than I thought to cut these things. Mostly because I decided to be lazy and use a band saw. Well, the band saw said no sir to the shock shaft so I had to spin the strut bodies around. I could only get 2/3 of it cut this way as the offset spring bucket wouldn't clear the top of the band saw. Spent the rest of the time finishing the rest with a die grinder. I then faced the housings off with a belt sander and de-burred them. Cliff notes: If you managed to cut these things with a hack saw, I'll give you a case of beer to dig me a tunnel to China with a spoon;). Now they're off to get powder coated Koni Yellow:cool:. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 I see Konis are for hardcore shade tree mechanics... cutting struts and all. Quite a hassle. Is there an option to send stockers in and have them install the inserts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgLGT Posted November 5, 2007 Author Share Posted November 5, 2007 ^^^ I doubt it, it's how Koni keeps their costs down. It's really not all that hard with power tools, but you're right in that I'm sure many a potential Koni customer have Bilsteins due to the install procedure and the vague instructions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rmcferon Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 Cliff notes: If you managed to cut these things with a hack saw, I'll give you a case of beer to dig me a tunnel to China with a spoon;). I cut mine with a hack saw using a new blade. Not too bad really. I cut just through the case and then rotated the strut for another bite. Took about 20 minutes per strut (less than 30 for sure) for the whole mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NutBucket Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 And I've read you can just a pipe cutter....like the type you'd use on copper pipe. I'll try that method first. Otherwise, I think I reciprocating saw may be the easy way to go. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
isuace Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 Yup, I used a reciprocating saw. My GF held the strut and I made a cut, rotate, cut, etc. Took maybe 3 minutes per strut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suds2250 Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 I see Konis are for hardcore shade tree mechanics... cutting struts and all. Quite a hassle. Is there an option to send stockers in and have them install the inserts? You can try Truechoice Motorsport here in Columbus. http://www.truechoicekoniracingservices.com/ 335HP/360Tq VF-22/1820 clone with Meth Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewScooby Posted November 5, 2007 Share Posted November 5, 2007 ok so: 1) take all the crap off the car 2-3) I marked the center with a center punch and used a 1/8 in bit to de-pressurize since it was way easier to find than a 3mm. I didn't cover it with tape; but I did wear eye protection. I didn't have any oil blow back at me, just nitrogen. I also started with blown struts so this may vary 4) Can't tell too sure if L1 is 36, 46, 56, 66mm, but it appears that you measure your insert to the line or nub ( I don't have any in front of me. I'm assuming its a nub or ring for an interference fit) then look up the corresponding L2 value. I'm guessing we need to cut ours either 30 or 40mm. I'm planning on marking that around with masking tape. LOL at using a hack saw and sawing to a depth of 2.5 mm; I'm going to use the band saw in the university machine shop here and go straight through that mofo. If I lose the piston down in the shock body, I'll blow it out with shop air. 5) toss all the useless stuff away. 6) enlarge the hole you drilled to 14mm 7) file the inside of the tube flush where welds from the spring perch/brake line bracket puddled through. 8) install rubber sleeve and c-clip? would need to see parts 9) tighten and torque 10) ok now I have no clue, does that say to reuse the bump stop, dust boot, or both. Don't use the cracked or damaged butt plug !!?! 11) Reinstall and torque, DON'T use an impact or you may damage the piston rod. It's hollow on these Koni's to allow for the adjustment tab. 12) What do you mean you didn't mark the camber adjustment bolt, oops. Nice of Koni to put that in AFTER you have the car apart. Great one Koni. 13) drive the hell out of it!! That may or may not help...that's my interpretation, 4 and 10 are kinda confusing. Another thing you might want to do when you do the install. #8, I smeared silicone caulk around the joint where the insert goes into the strut housing (before covering with rubber sleeve) and where the bolt threads in the bottom of the strut in attempt to keep them water tight. Got the idea while searching other forums about Koni inserts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvento Posted November 6, 2007 Share Posted November 6, 2007 I did none of that and they seem to work great for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bgLGT Posted November 6, 2007 Author Share Posted November 6, 2007 Another thing you might want to do when you do the install. #8, I smeared silicone caulk around the joint where the insert goes into the strut housing (before covering with rubber sleeve) and where the bolt threads in the bottom of the strut in attempt to keep them water tight. Got the idea while searching other forums about Koni inserts. Great call on that, I was going to put some bearing grease down them, but this is a way better idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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