SubOperator Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 My 05 LGT has developed some hard knocking sound in front suspension lately. It is worst (loudest) on the driver side , the noise on passenger side is present also but not as noticeable. The noise typically happens when the car drives over slight bumps on the road; I also noticed it several times when taking off in the morning. I couldn't get a strict correlation between outdise temperature and the noise; however, it *appears* to happen more often on a cold day. Car is completely stock right now and it's got 42K miles on it. The noise is too loud for shocks (I think) so I am afraid it might be ball joint or control arm. What's the best way to diagnose the problem before giving up and taking it to the shop ? I will be getting suspension modified soon but until then wanted to fix the car and keep stock parts. Hoping my extended warranty will cover the repair. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Nobody here ever had any problems with suspension I guess 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 sounds like endlinks or swaybar bushings to me... get under the car and take a look! Ball joint you can check by jacking up each corner of the car and trying to move the wheel up/down. Too much play and it could mean you have a worn ball joint. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterJMC Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 sounds like endlinks or swaybar bushings to me... Get under the car and take a look! Ball joint you can check by jacking up each corner of the car and trying to move the wheel up/down. Too much play and it could mean you have a worn ball joint. +1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 Oh and your rear control arm bushing (front arm, rear bushing) will probably be visibly torn. Take a close look. If so, good time for a polyurethane or spherical bearing upgrade. I would recommend PU for Rhode Island roads. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 thanks for advise. I probably will do it sometime this week - just got out at lunch time and it did sound pretty bad couple of times. So the good old way of jacking up the wheel is still the best huh. What are good bushings for control arms ? Can you guys recommend anything ? Will I need a press to get new bushings in control arms ? 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 thanks for advise. I probably will do it sometime this week - just got out at lunch time and it did sound pretty bad couple of times. So the good old way of jacking up the wheel is still the best huh. Short of disassembling stuff and really getting into it, yes. What are good bushings for control arms ? Can you guys recommend anything ? Will I need a press to get new bushings in control arms ? I have the AVO V.1 Bushings. The ones that give additional caster. You will feel bumps and stuff more with them, although you get used to it pretty quickly. It rates in my top 3 for suspension modifications though. The Crimson Dynamo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turninconcepts Posted February 18, 2009 Share Posted February 18, 2009 I say control arm bushings. Superpro also makes a stiffer replacement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted February 19, 2009 Author Share Posted February 19, 2009 I say control arm bushings. It's snowing today here so no getting under the car until weekend. I thought about bushings as well; however, I did some road test by getting slightly on and off the gas pedal while rolling on the flat pavement at about 25-30mph. Idea was to force the control arm to move back and forth ; I got no noise. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tahoegt Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 Had the same problem. After making the service guys go for a ride they acknowledged there was a clunk. They replaced the strut and did an alignment under warranty which fixed the problem. Do a search. Lots of info out there. Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 On stock car I'd say struts. Also the steering racks like to clunk. This is common (and normal ), but only when turning and going over bumps at slow speeds. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 It was the left side ball joint. good thing I caught it - it was really loose and could become a big problem. 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 16, 2009 Share Posted April 16, 2009 Heavy autoxing did it Was it the ball joint itself, or it loosed up itself in the knuckle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubOperator Posted April 16, 2009 Author Share Posted April 16, 2009 yeah, you're probably correct it was the ball joint itself. The right side started to have some slight movement too, but i goofed and didn't replace it this time. Will put new one on the right sometime mid May, after 1st autox at devens on 04/26. btw, shouldn't the car get new alignment after ball joint replacement ? 2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 249K 2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 272K SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngoshe88 Posted July 14, 2016 Share Posted July 14, 2016 This is a pretty old thread but I though I'd weigh in coz I had a similar problem on my 05 Spec B. My mechanic took a look and noted both bushings on the control arm (horizontal + vertically aligned) were worn out. So we changed those along with the ball joints, but still the problem persisted. he then took a look at the shocks' and we found the round space through the shock pad had been worn into a more oval shape (I could see the latest shavings of metal). Hence the knocking sound came from the lateral movement of the shock pad against the shaft (or vice- versa, I'm not sure). The mechanic recommended replacing the shock pad, but being flat broke after a comprehensive service I asked for an adhoc fix ( for the time being), so he placed two washers above and below to restrict lateral movement. And the knocking sound is gone Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lilbrudder Posted July 18, 2016 Share Posted July 18, 2016 This is a pretty old thread but I though I'd weigh in coz I had a similar problem on my 05 Spec B. My mechanic took a look and noted both bushings on the control arm (horizontal + vertically aligned) were worn out. So we changed those along with the ball joints, but still the problem persisted. he then took a look at the shocks' and we found the round space through the shock pad had been worn into a more oval shape (I could see the latest shavings of metal). Hence the knocking sound came from the lateral movement of the shock pad against the shaft (or vice- versa, I'm not sure). The mechanic recommended replacing the shock pad, but being flat broke after a comprehensive service I asked for an adhoc fix ( for the time being), so he placed two washers above and below to restrict lateral movement. And the knocking sound is gone Are you running on bilstiens? If so, can you elaborate more about the "shock pad"...maybe a picture or part number? I have been chasing a knocking that you maybe on to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngoshe88 Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Its the black triangular plate/pad that sits at the top of the strut and attaches to the chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ngoshe88 Posted August 8, 2016 Share Posted August 8, 2016 Its the black triangular plate/pad that sits at the top of the strut and attaches to the chassis Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 I found this at another post : Can you point out the part you are talking about in this diagram: From <http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/koni-shock-strut-epic-engineering-spring-install-145744.html> A) Koni front shock assembled into strut housing B) OEM dust cover (P/N 20322AG00A, qty.1/side) C) OEM top mount (P/N 20320AG00A, qty.1/side) D) Nut & Lock-washer from Koni kit E) OEM bump stop (P/N 20321AA201, qty.1/side) F) OEM conical washer (P/N 20326AA000, qty.1/side) G) OEM upper spring seat (P/N 20323AG00A, qty.1/side) H) Epic Engineering front spring Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ashwinearl Posted August 10, 2016 Share Posted August 10, 2016 On stock car I'd say struts. Also the steering racks like to clunk. This is common (and normal ), but only when turning and going over bumps at slow speeds. Is there any info on this common steering rack clunk or definitive fixes? I've seen some posts on this at outback.org but nothing fully agreed upon. Is there any more info on what aspect of the rack is rattling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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