Any issues with filling up with 5 quarts at oil change?

Have any of you guys had any problems after filling up with 5 quarts when you do an oil change?

I get my oil in Walmart and they come in 5 quart jugs. Initially I just put in the 4 and a quarter and filled as necessary. But this last oil change I just put all 5 quarts in. 2000 miles later and it's still way over the full mark. At least I don't have to worry about adding.

I don't over fill much at all. I like it hit the F mark and monitor.

I run a little over, but not that much and check oil once or twice a week. I drive a lot.

No, half quart is fine. It's when you put over 5 quarts that you should drain out a little.

 

I put in the whole 5 quarts every time I change my oil.

I disagree. The fill is 4.2 quarts. If you put in 4.5 you'll be about as much over the mark as you want to go. Save the extra half quart for topping off or your lawn mower.

There are a number of reasons why this probably isn't a good idea. I'll put it right out front: these reasons are general, and not specific to this engine. I have no idea how much more oil you can get away with putting in before it would cause these problems on this particular mill, but I want to risk them about as much as I want to risk starving a turbo for oil. Actually I'd rather risk starving the turbo, since a new turbo is cheaper than an engine teardown and rebuild/replace.

That all being said: the first issue is windage, which will hurt performance and efficiency. The rotating assembly was designed to be dipped in oil, not bathed in it. The more oil you add that doesn't belong there, the worse this potential condition becomes, to the point that it isn't just dragging the crank, but being aerated by it. Increased crankcase pressure caused by extreme windage can blow out the seals, at which point an engine that's already known to use oil will be burning it like crazy. I've never actually seen, but have heard rumors of this condition being bad enough that oil finds it's way into places it can't burn off before starting a full blown engine fire.

I say put what the geniuses who designed the engine said to put in it, and keep an eye on it... but like I said, I'm pretty new to this car.

There also seems to be a bad notion floating around that if the motor isn't at F it will cause wear. There is a 1qt range between F and L. If you're in the middle and top up, no harm done.

 

What is a better alternative to over filling is checking your oil regularly. I keep oil in the trunk and top up as need. Occasionally I get over by a bit but never by 1/2qt.

Heh heh heh... this reminds me of the beater cars I used to drive as a young man. Always had to have oil in the trunk because those big ol' V8s burned oil. P.S. as far as I know there is no benefit to overfilling your oil and there is potential for negative effects.

Agree with the last three posts. Why take a chance? And top-off is a must in the LGTs, so you're covered with the leftover.

 

Now what about your OCI?

I change the oil every 4 months, which for me ends up being at most close to 4000 miles. Mobil1 10w40 high mileage synthetic. Im using the slightly longer purolator oil filter. One benefit ive noticed is the oil still looks relatively clean. It usually gets darker, and pretty dark by oil change time.

I do a spectroscopic analysis (@540nm) at intra-OC intervals to semi-quantitatively determine accumulation of particulate contaminants and "breakdown" as evidence by an increase in optical density (inversely proportional to % transmittance measure) and use that as a guide...thin layer chromatography might also provide objective assessment. Anyone use a viscometer?

Just put a Killer B oil pan on there:

I run my oil through the Entabulator.

 

If you're over the F mark on the dipstick, pull the filter off and let that amount drain and get it at or below the F mark. If you just changed it, you're fine re-using the oil filter. Just watch for leaks, as normal.

I put closer to 5 qts in mine. I also run a oem honda filter (for free.99) because it is the same thread and footprint as the subaru filters, yet it is easily twice the height. Does not interfere with the underbody cover.

I put closer to 5 qts in mine. I also run a oem honda filter (for free.99) because it is the same thread and footprint as the subaru filters, yet it is easily twice the height. Does not interfere with the underbody cover.

 

Bigger filter for the win! Talk to me about the added cooling benefits and superior filtration.

Have a filter number or application, i.e. year & model & engine? I tried to get an RX8 filter for the same reason and the only one I found locally was exactly the same size as ours.

I put closer to 5 qts in mine. I also run a oem honda filter (for free.99) because it is the same thread and footprint as the subaru filters, yet it is easily twice the height. Does not interfere with the underbody cover.

 

There are other oil filter specifications besides thread and footprint, have you taken those into consideration?

Have a filter number or application, i.e. year & model & engine? I tried to get an RX8 filter for the same reason and the only one I found locally was exactly the same size as ours.

 

For the Honda filter? All Honda models that I have ever changed oil on. I can't be certain that it has always been streamlined, but I am sure the last 20 years of Honda motors take just one specific filter. I just had a spare one from the parts department.

 

There are other oil filter specifications besides thread and footprint, have you taken those into consideration?

 

No, I certainly have not considered any other build mismatches besides the ones that keep the oil in the can.

 

I will gladly bet that whatever Honda supplies to their dealers for oil filters has a better build quality than a run of the mill stp/wix/fram/insert favorite brand filter.

 

Before anyone goes down this road, I do not care which 'aftermarket' filter is better.

 

However, you must have considered it, haven't you? So strictly oem Subaru filter vs the oem Honda filter I am using, what differences do you suppose there are?

I dump 5 in and call it good. I'm not going to get a measuring cup out and measure out 1/5 of a quart to get the exact 4.2 quart change. The car isn't that sensitive.

 

Think about how much 5 quarts is and then think about how big your oil pan is. Then think about how your block is constructed and how the crank and rods move within it.

 

There's no way the crank or connecting rods are going to hit the pool of oil in your pan unless you double fill the oil or more. Then you have serious problems.

However, you must have considered it, haven't you? So strictly oem Subaru filter vs the oem Honda filter I am using, what differences do you suppose there are?

 

Bypass valve pressure. Here's a really long thread:

 

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1410171

I dump 5 in and call it good. I'm not going to get a measuring cup out and measure out 1/5 of a quart to get the exact 4.2 quart change. The car isn't that sensitive.

 

Think about how much 5 quarts is and then think about how big your oil pan is. Then think about how your block is constructed and how the crank and rods move within it.

 

There's no way the crank or connecting rods are going to hit the pool of oil in your pan unless you double fill the oil or more. Then you have serious problems.

 

Stop being so logical....

If you put too much oil in, wouldn't it be high enough that some would leak past the rings and into the combustion chamber? This could make for a smokey start.

If you put too much oil in, wouldn't it be high enough that some would leak past the rings and into the combustion chamber? This could make for a smokey start.

 

Only if you dump in like 15 quarts... then your crankshaft and connecting rods are going to hit the top of the puddle and turn your oil into foam. Then you have issues.

Which model number filter are you using and will it work with the 2007 2.5 non turbo?