Invidia Catted downpipe WBO2 location

I just got a bung welded in my invidia catted downpipe. I wanted to put it to the left of the Cobb location but the muffler shop said they couldn't weld to the cast.

 

They recomended putting it just before the cat. I am not sure how this will work. The muffler shop was very careful and didn't damage to CAT in anyway.

 

Let me know what you think.

 

http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/collegemt/005-1.jpg

http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/collegemt/006-1.jpg

http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/collegemt/014-2.jpg

http://i352.photobucket.com/albums/r358/collegemt/016-1.jpg

Here's where I put mine:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Exhaust/StereoWidebands01Small.jpg

 

However, after reading this post, I think your location might be better.

 

I am very curious how stable/jumpy your readings are.

 

Yours looks a lot like mine - is it a PLX?

 

The sensor with the yellow lead is the stock sensor, I'm planning to do some comparisons to find out what its limits are.

Collegemt...very nicely done. So there is no cat material in that portion of the pipe where the bung is located?

Collegemt...very nicely done. So there is no cat material in that portion of the pipe where the bung is located?

 

 

The cat sits about a 1/2 inch below where the the bung is.

 

I did some logs last night and it seemed to be woorking fine.

Here's where I put mine:

http://i193.photobucket.com/albums/z151/Legacy_NSFW/Exhaust/StereoWidebands01Small.jpg

 

However, after reading this post, I think your location might be better.

 

I am very curious how stable/jumpy your readings are.

 

Yours looks a lot like mine - is it a PLX?

 

The sensor with the yellow lead is the stock sensor, I'm planning to do some comparisons to find out what its limits are.

 

This is a very weird setup. It looks like you have the WBO2 right behind the wastegate door. I don't think that's going to be accurate.

 

Let us know how it works out especially during high speed cruise.

It's a divorced bellmouth and both sensors are on the turbo-outlet side of the divorce.

 

It reads a lot like the stock sensor. I can't yet log both at once but I hope to soon.

Good luck getting that bolt out when you need it. Allen head plus it's right next to the cat... I'd remove it before it gets locked in there and replace it with a coated mild steel o2 plug with a 1" hex head. They're like 2-3 bucks and will save you a ton of trouble down the line.

 

Not only that but it's between the turbo and a cat that's real close to the turbo. A sensor there will likely overheat causing errors or skewed readings during hard driving. It will also live a short life.

Good luck getting that bolt out when you need it. Allen head plus it's right next to the cat... I'd remove it before it gets locked in there and replace it with a coated mild steel o2 plug with a 1" hex head. They're like 2-3 bucks and will save you a ton of trouble down the line.

 

Not only that but it's between the turbo and a cat that's real close to the turbo. A sensor there will likely overheat causing errors or skewed readings during hard driving. It will also live a short life.

 

 

Right now I have the sensor in and not the allen plug. I feel my location is much further away from the turbo than the traditional cobb location. My readings so far have been good. I don't expect the sensor to last forever.

 

Thanks for the advice though.

No problem. For reference everyone I know that's done a lapping day with a sensor in that location has totally destroyed it even if it was brand new at the start of the day. Definitely take it out before doing any aggressive driving. It will last a bit on the street as long as you're not doing top end runs. I'd take it out when you're not tuning/logging anyways as they don't remain accurate for very long when installed in daily driven vehicles. Guys that leave them in because they're running standalones and use the wideband for trimming generally notice a lack of accuracy after a month or two on Bosch LSU sensors and around 6 months on the more expensive NTKs, but mileage, placement, and usage certainly affect this a good deal.

I think I need a new sensor. I haven't been able to trust my LC-1 data for a couple weeks. I've had it in there in the "Cobb" location for close to a year non-stop, including a track day. When I installed it there I accepted the reality I'd be replacing the sensor more frequently.

 

EDIT: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-17014-Oxygen-Sensor/dp/B000BZI4ZW/]Just bought the sensor from Amazon - $49 shipped[/ame].

thats a good price on the sensor.

bumping this up. I've got to get my bung welded into my Invidia DP. Which location would be best?

I put mine at the top of the bellmouth. Make sure it goes on the turbine side of the divider, not the wastegate side.

Thanks NSFW for the advice. I had it taken care of. I also had the welder grind the tang flush with the bellmouth housing so I can install my turbo pretty soon here. The AVO turbos have the divided wastegate. Here's a shot of the DP installed.

 

http://i108.photobucket.com/albums/n29/joeleodee/4c0e9581.jpg

I have a catless Invidia DP, could I just use the downstream O2 location?

I did that with my catted Invidia DP -- from what I've read it throws you off maybe .2 towards the rich side (reads leaner than it actually is). To me that's just more of a safety factor.

 

I haven't actually used it yet. I still need a serial to USB adapter, and that's pretty embarrassing considering I own a computer shop...

 

I need to fire up my LC1 so I can dial in my MAF housing in the upper range. I suspect it's reading high, causing me to hit loads that the car isn't actually seeing.

Did you do anything about the signal that the ECU is expecting from the rear O2 sensor?

 

I've read a couple of accounts from people who found their car running rich after disconnecting that sensor.

I should have clarified -- I added a bung before the stock rear o2 sensor so actually my stock sensor is still in place.

Did you do anything about the signal that the ECU is expecting from the rear O2 sensor?

 

I've read a couple of accounts from people who found their car running rich after disconnecting that sensor.

 

 

From what I can see from my ROM image it is still looking at it.... just the cat codes are disabled.

I've had trouble with wideband sensors overheating so I am going to be moving mine farther downstream, close to the rear O2 sensor. In fact, a friend of mine removed his rear O2 sensor and put his wideband O2 in its place. He disabled the rear O2 sensor in his tune. Not sure exactly what he changed, but his AFR's are normal.

I've had trouble with wideband sensors overheating so I am going to be moving mine farther downstream, close to the rear O2 sensor.

 

I've burnt thru 2 WBO2 sensors already and started using my 3rd a couple weeks ago. I am keeping that location, but only threading in and connecting the sensor when I am logging. The rest of the time the sensor sits in the engine compartment disconnected with the protective cover on. I've got a plug for the bung. It takes around ~2 minutes to install/uninstall. I use lots of anti-seize and minimal torque on the sensor and plug. I can easily do free-air calibrations now too.

Yeah I'll probably do that once I buy a new sensor, although I bought a wideband gauge I would like to put in. I also found a plug and play pigtail harness for the Bosch Widebands so I still have to wire that in when I buy a new sensor. The sensors have a 1 year warranty, so if the wiring isn't hacked they could replace the sensor when it dies. I made a heat sink out of aluminum as well that I still have to install. I haven't been tuning my car since my clutch is starting to slip...