Installing a V1 display in the Gauge Cluster

Due to popular request for a 'how to' guide on my V1 remote display install (See original thread: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=55981) I put together this write up.

Let me start by saying this install was straight forward, but the difficulty rating is high. There were a few times when I was working on this that I wanted to ditch the project. Also when I working on it, I sometimes didn't stop to take pictures. I will try my best to describe what I actually did.

What I wanted: To install my V1 display in a concealed, yet easily viewable location.

Here is the finished product:

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/v1_final.JPG

Tools needed:

10mm Ratchet

#2 Phillips head screwdriver (Both normal and short length)

Panel removal tool - or - Screwdriver

Diagonal Cutter Pliers

15watt Soldering Gun

Hot Glue Gun

Exacto Knife

Dremel Tool and various bits

Steel File

Electrical Tape

Masking Tape

Super Glue

Parts I used:

1x Cluster Panel - Part #: 85070AG22A (TheKingOfParts)

1x V1 Concealed Display - Part #: 20110 (valentine1.com)

1x Dual Mini Board - Part #: 276-148 (RadioShack)

1x 30AWG Blue Wire - Part #: 278-503 (RadioShack)

1x 30AWG Red Wire - Part #: 278-501 (RadioShack)

1x .022" diameter Solder - Part #: 64-013 (RadioShack)

2x RED CLEAR 1206 SMD - Part #: 67-1695-1-ND ( digikey.com)

2x ORANGE CLEAR 1206 SMD - Part #: 67-1696-1-ND (digikey.com)

2x YELLOW CLR 1206 SMD -Part #: 67-1699-1-ND (digikey.com)

2x RED ORANGE CLEAR 1206 SMD - Part #: 160-1402-1-ND ( digikey.com)

1x LED RED CLEAR 1206 SMD - Part #: 404-1029-1-ND (digikey.com)

1x LED YELLOW CLEAR 1206 SMD - Part #: 404-1031-1-ND ( digikey.com)

1x LED ORANGE CLEAR 1206 SMD - Part #: 404-1030-1-ND (digikey.com)

1x LED WHITE YELLOW 260MCD 1206 - Part #: 160-1737-1-ND (digikey.com )

1x LED 7-SEG 7.6MM CA HE RED RHD - Part #: 516-1202-5-ND (digikey.com)

3x LED RED CLEAR 1206 SMD - Part #: 404-1032-1-ND (digikey.com)

Heat shrink tubing

Step 1:

Remove the cluster from your car and separate the inside panel.

Disconnect the Ground wire on the Battery.

Remove the lower kick panel by pulling out the two pop-its on either side and pulling FIRMLY on the center plastic plug. The cover will rotate down and out of the way but will not come off. Remove the Screw on the right hand side of the upper kick panel above the lower kick panel, pull the rest of that panel off, again you do not need to pull it all the way off only shift it down and out of the way. Use the 10mm socket to remove the two bolts holding on the metal plate under the upper kick panel, and set that aside.

Put the steering wheel down to the lowest position. Remove the screws from the cluster (one for the upper side, two underneath). Pull the cluster toward you tilting it forward. Remove the two plugs from the back and carefully slide it out to the left between the wheel and the dash.

Separate the housing by gently lifting on the clips and pulling the face apart. Hint: Start at the top center, work your way down both sides, and do the bottom last.

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/cluster.JPG

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/panel.JPG

Step 2:

Disassemble V1 Remote Display.

Remove the two small torx screws on the bottom. Push apart the two tabs holding the circuit board to remove. Set aside the circuit board.

Starting from the left side, gently peel the front sticker off of the V1 remote display. Place on a plastic sandwich bag to keep clean.

Front Side:

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/V1_display_front.JPG

Back Side

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/V1_display_back.JPG

Step 3:

Remove the overlay from the cluster panel

Gently pry the sticker from the plastic in a uniform fashion working around the piece. Set sticker in a location safe from dirt ect.

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/Panel_Apart.JPG

Step 4:

Modify panel to include V1 display cutouts

Using a dremel tool cut the V1 display panel separating the Arrows from the Display. Also cut the left side of the display to remove the mute button cutout.

Align the cutouts on the cluster panel and marking your cuts accordingly. Using the Dremel cut the panel. Run a steel file across all the cuts to make the edges flush.

Super glue the pieces together. I used masking tape on the face of the panel and flipped the panel over and glued the pieces together. Allow glue to cure. Remove the tape and dremel any high spots flush with a drum sander attachment.

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/Arrows_Cutout_F.JPG

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/Display_Cutout_F.JPG

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/Panel_Apart_F.JPG

Step 5:

Re-apply the panel sticker and carefully cutout V1 arrows and rectangle display sticker using an Excato knife.

Sorry no really good pictures of this step

Step 6:

De soldering LEDs from the V1 remote display

Carefully remove the 15 LEDs from the circuit board. Re-apply solder to the pads once complete.

Using a small set of diagonal cutters cut off the LED segment display.

Step 7:

Solder LEDs to mount behind the panel.

Take the radio shack mini board and cut two pieces matching the dimensions for the Arrows and Display panel.

Strip a tiny amount of 30AWG wire (1st lengths) and solder the wire to the copper holes on the board for each LED position. The trick is to get solder to cover the hole opening leaving a flat surface, then align the SMD LED on the two pads and touch each side with the solder gun.

Connect the opposite end to the corresponding solder point on the remote display.

Use hot glue to secure the connections once tested.

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/Soldering.JPG

I also changed the LED colors while I was at it:

Signal Strength Bar is going to change to a gradient color pattern (2 of each)

Yellow, Orange, Orange/Red, Red

Band Type:

Laser – White

Ka – Red

K – Orange

X – Yellow

Step 8:

Cut main cluster unit to fit the new circuit boards

Use a dremel or side cutters to remove the plastic squares

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/Center_cut.JPG

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/Right_Side_cut.JPG

Step 9:

Put it all back together.

Reverse Step 1

http://deniscoan.googlepages.com/V1_power_on.JPG

You WIN!

Wow! Very impressive! A++ hahahah.

Looks fantastic. Any installed pics without the V1 lights on? By this I mean how does it look when you are normally driving w/o any radar activity around.

All I can say is WOW.

That's what I've wanted was too afraid to take apart my dash and start cutting into it. Let's say electricity and myself don't mix.

How will you know if you're out of windshield wiper fluid now?

so how much for you to do this to my car?

nice install, man

We're not worthy!

We're not worthy!

We're not worthy!

Craazy... but awesome.

I had the idea before that fast cars should come with V1 integrated from the factory....

How will you know if you're out of windshield wiper fluid now?

 

Speaking of which... did you see if the fluid led is present and is connected somewhere? I was looking at the USDM and ROW (LHD/RHD non-JDM) electric diagarms and I didn't see the led being connected anywhere.

I'd love to put a sensor in the reservoir and hook it up to the led...

Speaking of which... did you see if the fluid led is present and is connected somewhere? I was looking at the USDM and ROW (LHD/RHD non-JDM) electric diagarms and I didn't see the led being connected anywhere.

 

I'd love to put a sensor in the reservoir and hook it up to the led...

There is no LED mounted on the circuit board for the low fluid cutout. There are solder pads for one to be placed there, but not sure about the rest of the circuitry.

Speaking of which... did you see if the fluid led is present and is connected somewhere? I was looking at the USDM and ROW (LHD/RHD non-JDM) electric diagarms and I didn't see the led being connected anywhere.

 

I'd love to put a sensor in the reservoir and hook it up to the led...

As puzzled mentioned, there is no LED in our cluster in that position. I plan on placing a standard LED in that honeycomb hole rather than messing with a surface mount to take advantage of the low fluid symbol on the cluster for use with my WI system.

We're not worthy!

 

We're not worthy!

 

We're not worthy!

ZOMG + 100000000000000000000 :eek:

As puzzled mentioned, there is no LED in our cluster in that position. I plan on placing a standard LED in that honeycomb hole rather than messing with a surface mount to take advantage of the low fluid symbol on the cluster for use with my WI system.

This would the best option if someone wanted to utilize the low fluid light cutout. Make a tiny notch in the plastic squares to run your two wires out to your sensor and call it a day. This way you don't even need to mess with the circuitry inside the cluster.

so how much for you to do this to my car?

 

nice install, man

In all seriousness, would this modification be something you'd consider doing for a fee, puzzled?

(if so, I call first dibs )