How to Install a Laser Jammer

this is how i installed a blinder xtreme m20 to my L7.


please use at your own risk, it may very well be illegal in every state... but this thread could be useful for installing other electronics, so please no ranting about that.

Supplies:
Phillips Head screwdriver
Contents of Blinder Xtreme (includes zipties, leveler, etc)
Dremel with cutting tool
Pliers
Flat-head screwdriver
Welding Glue or a drill

1. Read the directions a few times. It is very important the detector/jammer units are precisely leveled (horizontal to ground) and pointing directly forward. They should also be between 50-60cm apart.

2. I did not want to drill... JB Weld glue is just as strong a bond... so I cleaned the area, mixed the glue, and stuck the detecting units on. They fit plush against the bumper, see pic.

Press tightly for 4 minutes.


Barely noticeable.


3. Feed the wire from the back of the detector unit up into the main engine bay. I first fed it through the grill.


4. Place it along a suitable route to the rear of the hood... refer to picture in step 5 for where the wires will be fed through.

Zip-tie it down.


5. The two phone-cord connectors should be fed through a hole concealed beneath this rubber stopper:


NOTE: MAKE SURE YOU CLOSE THIS when you finish, otherwise you will hear a loud whistling during acceleration. By "close" I mean ensure both pop-in sections are popped in place on both sides of the rubber.

6. Remove the driver's dash covers. You will need a phillips, and thats it. There are two screws here and some pop-its.
Start with the panel by the pedals, unscrew a few pop-its and one phillips.

Sorry for the lack of pics, refer to the DLR Delete walk-thru for specifics.


Unplug the wires and remove the upper dash cover.



OK. Why are we doing this?

There needs to be a suitable location for the beeper/light and the on/off switch.
I was thinking about this as I took off the dash and realized something.


That is not my car, as I have a working left button there.
PS what is the right one do?


Anyway so we are going to make one of the two useless buttons useful.

7. Remove the crazy/useless button box.


8. Open up the box. It requires one or two flatheads to unopop it.

9. Carefully remove one of the empty buttons and install the provided button.


10. Dremel/cut a hole/area for the wires to go out.


The red is where I dremeled, but the wire could be fed through holes marked by the blue dots.


11. Close it up. It should look like this:




12. Wire the black (negative) wire to ground (anything metal, basically, I used a random screw I found up under the dash)

13. Wire the red (positive) to a fuse or directly to the battery. I used my cigarette power fuse (the fuse directly above the bottom left fuse) by splicing the red wire and wrapping it around the metal of the fuse.

14. Pop everything back into place. I wired the buzzer/beeper up by the steering wheel, but I may just leave it tucked in the dash completely... the buzzer is pretty loud.

15. Finished product





Sorry for the convoluted logic/language...
Also this is my first time ever trying anything with electricals.
So.
Enjoy.

Also it seems that those "useless" buttons are actually wired. So maybe someone who knows anything about electricals can tell me how to wire the buttons without any silly cutting etc.

Awesome work. How much does this radar cost, where did you get it? How well does it work compared to higher end radars like $300 Window mount for example? so many questions... it looks awesome though.

Blinder M20 Laser Jammer (for cars & trucks)

M-20: $349 (for 2 detector/jammer units)
M-40: $599 (for 4 detector/jammer units)

I use the Valentine One for detection, the Blinder Xtreme will temporarily disable any (police) laser detector (aka, there will not be a read on your speed while the Blinder is activated).

Nice job, except your pictures ARE TOO BIG!!!

I am not sure, but I think the units are placed too deep in the bumper. The beam my be blocked that way. Here are some pictures from my install of the same LJ:

http://legacygt.com/forums/647284-post53.html

OTOH, I think mine may be little bit too close too each other. Due to the bumper skin curvature I could not space them farther apart without running into levelling issues.

Besides with you read raderdetector.net forum Blinder M20 is not that effective, people say. Supposedly coating headlights with Veil helps. I don't know do not feel like putting some goo on the headlights. There better units made and sold in Europe (Antilaser).

i was pretty careful that nothing obstructs their view... keep in mind it will be a straight shot of many hundreds of yards so being far inside the bumper shouldnt matter as long as nothing is in the way..

does it work for you?

do you have a link for the european version?

Very nice! Pix are a little big, but nice work!

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Brother unclemat - I think that the effectiveness of the jammers have a lot to do with the use of differing equipment by local/regional enforcers. It's the reason why I chose to go with the Escort ZR3, instead - but if I lived in another area, it may very well be that the Blinder would have suited my needs better.

I feel, actually, the same way of top-flight detectors....that they all work exceptionally well, and it's just a matter of choosing the right product to fit both your personal needs/preferences as well as to best counteract local enforcement practices.

Those places for buttons are for the other markets where the have folding power mirrors.. At least in the older legacy's. I believe the current Legacy has same location as well.

Originally Posted by subieleg

Awesome work. How much does this radar cost, where did you get it? How well does it work compared to higher end radars like $300 Window mount for example? so many questions... it looks awesome though.

I was selling them here as a group buy just a while ago for $295 shipped...

I also took a video of the Blinder running on the car, with a DV camera. If you're interested, you can view it working here: http://www.filelodge.com/files/hdd6...u%20Blinder.avi (5MB AVI XVID file)

The video requires the freeware XVID codec (DivX will work too, I think?) XVid windows binaries can be obtained here: Koepi's Media Development Homepage

Haven't had a chance to "test it out" in real life yet (that's a GOOD thing)... trying to find a *friendly* cop who would like to give it a try

Triskite - nice, detailed install - especially the switch location. I installed mine on the fusebox "door" panel thingy... that way it's accessible, yet not visible. You certainly went the extra mile with your switch!

mmmmmm I somehow feel very Alex Roy after seeing that... reminds me of gumball.

heeh

I'm just now completing install on my second LPP setup (I'll now have two heads up front, with one out rear; plus the old ZR3, of course).

Stay-tuned for new Guys of LIDAR results from their latest round of countermeasures testing. Should be very interesting.

Originally Posted by TSi+WRX

I'm just now completing install on my second LPP setup (I'll now have two heads up front, with one out rear; plus the old ZR3, of course).

Stay-tuned for new Guys of LIDAR results from their latest round of countermeasures testing. Should be very interesting.

Cool. I feel I need to upgrade my Bilnder.... source for LPP? Reviews?

^ Don't upgrade *just yet* bruddah - GOL's results are due out within the next week to week-and-a-half, and that'll be worth waiting for.

For the LPP, there's now a North American re-seller:

For USA and Canada --
Email:sales@laserproparkusa.com

My contact there is Alex (Ian) Chang. I've gotten nothing short of *exceptional* service from them so far.

Here's a copy of the post I made on RD.net regarding my latest purchase:

Just keeping you updated, bro:

I *honestly* hadn't expected this until the 23rd! At least that's what the "Expected Delivery" date said when I last checked DHL over the weekend. Go figure.

My nanny got the package yesterday (thankfully, as it was raining/snowing out, but regardless, DHL did do a very nice job of putting it in a thick plastic bag) but didn't call me, so I didn't know until I got home. What a nice surprise!

They did an *awesome* job on packaging! Everything stayed in-place, which had been a problem of my first purchase in that the heads and control-box came out of their boxed retaining slots. I'd suggested to the distributor/packer that they take a few minutes to secure everything in-place with packing tape, and it looks like they listened. Also, it looks like they're checking the package more carefully now, as my first purchase was missing the small mounting hardware, but this one was again extra-secured.

I interrupt the copy-paste here to say that with my initial purchase of the dual-head unit through the NA LPP re-seller, it was when they were just starting-up, and they were rather inexperienced in shipping/packaging. My original shipment came without some of the smaller mounting hardware (bubble level, zip-ties, adhesives, etc.), and the control box and heads were loose-in-package as they'd shifted out-of-place during shipment.

I contacted Alex to let him know of the problems, and made courteous suggestions to help them better their packaging - and it looks like they took that to-heart.

Of my original purchase with them, it took quite a while (as it was their initial shipment), but Alex kept me well-aware throughout the entire lead-time, even during the holiday season. Again, excellent.

This time, they had built-up stock, and they were able to ship immediately. I ordered and paid on Friday, the unit arrived on Monday of the very next week. Well-done.

In any case, in-preparation for the coming install, I'd already re-configured my car's interior setup so as to allow for a better consolidated and easier to actuate x50/ZR3 controls (I reconfigured so that I could use the ZR3's mute on the x50, allowing for a faster and easier "shut down" of jamming transmission), as well as to allow for side-by-side mounting of the incoming LPP control with my current LPP switchgear.

My hope is that this will help cut down on the time/actions-needed when I encounter enforcement and give me a better chance to shut-down jamming. As I keep adding countermeasures, I find that to get a coordinated set of actions is something that is nearly impossible to "train for" as I simply can't practice the scenario ( I used to be a martial-artist, so I know the value of practice in situations of stress ) - I hope that my consolidation of the controls will help.

When I'm done, as with what I had before, everything will be buried in the ashtray, which as you know is conveniently placed adjacent to the stickshift - allowing me to retain my preference of off-hand actuation of the switchgear while driving (I drive a manual, as you may remember, and, I also prefer to downshift-to-slow, if possible; thus my preference for keeping the controls near the stick, for use with my off-hand). I still need to fine-tune the mounting depth of my project enclosure within the ashtray cubby, so that I can again, as before, close the ashtray door to hide my switchgear out-of-sight, should I choose.

I've currently also had time to drill another hole in my custom gauge cluster panel in the central dash "cubby" in order to house the other LED. They're now in a vertical "up/down" vs. "front/back" relation. Fine-tuning of this will be to cut up a couple of rubber grommets so that they can serve as a visual "shield" from disturbing my passengers. The panel, for your reference, is one of Jon's "Cubbypods" - I have the dual-gauge model. You likely will not be able to utilize this due to your RHD (versus our LHD, as they configure the gauges to be tilted towards the driver) configuration - but he does have other panels available that should suit your needs.

Note that the RD.net enthusiast whom I'm writing to is the proud owner of an '04/05 Legacy SpecB, NZ-spec.

I've also completed running the additional main control loom by placing the speaker again over by the base of the stickshift's trim panel. They're now sticking out of the trim bezel, looking like "alien eyes on antennae." Strangely, it looks better than having just one sticking up.

I've also run out some extra wire lengths so that I can get the second control box positioned closer to the end of the rear LPP head's wiring length. This gives me a little better wire run, as I didn't want to have to fish-tape under the rear carpeting (which I've been told, on our cars, is a total pain in the butt). It's not a completely hidden install, but for me it's good enough. I just need to fine-tune this by weatherproofing the rear control box junction, which now resides under the driver's seat. As I've mentioned before, unfortunately, on our LGTs, the wire run length from the LPP heads is just-short of being able to complete a run to our trunk, so this is a remdial measure.

The only thing I have left to do, really, aside from the fine tuning stuff, is to trail-out the new front head, and re-mount both it, it's sister, as well as the ZR3 heads. This external step is actually going to take me the least amount of time, as I've already done it many times before. The interior work has taken me a total of about 4 hours so far, including stripping out my x50 SmartCord direct-wire. The most time-consuming step was actually making the cosmetic plate for the LPP controls, and the rather harrowing drilling of the custom face-panel that supports two of my auxiliary gauges.

Their on-line Support Forum is:
http://www.laserproparkusa.com/forum/index.php

Unfortunatley, there's a bit of static between several members of the community right now, leading to a lot of crap-talk and a rather bad signal-to-noise ratio. However, there is decent technical resource there (and the Admin and Support Staff, as well as fellow owners, are quick to answer questions, too, should they arise) - and this, combined with the RD.net Forums, should help guide your purchase decision (read: product reviews).

Aside from overall build-quality - which is excellent - I'm rather unable to render any testimony regarding performance vs. LIDAR.

My daily commute just doesn't see LIDAR enforcement but for the rare Blue Moon - and even then, I'm usually sticking so close to the PSL that by visual reference, LEOs rarely even bother to shoot me with RADAR/LIDAR. In-city, I drive like an old maid, and countermeasures is a confessed "hobby" for me.

On clear, open highways, that's another story, but I haven't taken any good road-trips lately.

Privately, there's at least one GOL member who still "loves" the LPP and AL - he's said that again and again even after the most recent round of testing - so even though the results are not yet public, I'd say that it's safe to assume that even if the LPP isn't the best, it does rank up there.

To me, even if the LPP isn't the "best performer," I'd still go with it, chiefly due to the ease of shipping and the customer-service that I've received from them.

While I'm no stranger to international purchases, the idea of incurring brokerage fees and the idea of international shipping does turn me off of the AL somewhat..... And I, for one, think that aside from the issue of the "full power" jam mode (which has the possibility of incurring true jam-codes, as it is a "brute force" method), the two products are truly comparable in terms of software/firmware.

Overall, I'd say that from the various hobbyist/independent testing, including various videos, it seems that either the AL or LPP would produce similar jamming results.

However, if you're truly worried about that extra ounce of performance (i.e. if you do practice JTG), it will certainly be worth it for you to await the GOL testing.

The wildcard is now Laser Interceptor.

Hope this helps, bruddah!

Cool. Do you have some pics of your install?

^ I will very soon.

I've promised it to the fellow RD.net NZ-LGT owner.

The weather is still nasty enough that washing the car is a no-win situation ( I just washed her last Friday, and now, she's filthy ) - so you'll have to excuse that, but you'll get a good view of what I did for the install both of my previous setup (one head out front, a temporary setup - and one out rear, which I'm keeping), as well as the current revision.

My rear install isn't pretty, though -- it's more "industrial" in appearance as I didn't want to tap through the tail-light housings nor body panel.



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PS: Watch-out for my ninja-edits in the previous post above.