Razor Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 So I'm getting ready for my install of tmic, injectors, pump (Already stage 2 + vs-52) and my tuner says that I need a wideband o2 sensor. Do i absolutely need this? I already ordered my parts and im maxed out on funds. I didn't know of this before. So besides, "do I really need this". How would I install this on my Cobb dp ? How much work is this exactly? Do I need to run cables somehow into my ecu? Like my tuner (e tuner) , how would he make use of this? Sorry im a little flustered, thansk for the interest. Also , If I don't go this route, anyone interested in an avo fuel pump and dw 740 side feed injectors? Brand new, not even opened. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattg Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 You don't really need it. Only a small fraction of people at your proposed mod level have one. I don't have one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubyShop.com Posted February 14, 2010 Share Posted February 14, 2010 The Cobb downpipe has a bung for an additional O2 sensor. Basically you could get a wideband and just screw it in the bung. You need to run wires from the sensor to the controller, but the grommet on the passenger side of the engine bay makes this easy. The wideband does not plug into the ECU. You only use it for tuning/logging purposes but you can get a gauge for it. If you are running upgraded fueling, a wideband will help verify your air fuel ratio and will get you another 10-15 HP when safely tuning a leaner open loop AFR. Innovate LC-1 wideband goes for under $200 and it's what I use on my car-Franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razor Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 What 'controller' does it plug in to ? Just a little confused. So the wideband results are only for my viewing ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razor Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 Also, how much work is it to plug that o2 sensor into the down pipe? Can i do it from the engine bay? whats the proceedure? Also, how much work is envolved in changing out fuel pump / injectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bugblatterbeast Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 you should probably find someone local to help you out. if you don't have the experience necessary to put in a set of injectors/fuel pump and funds are already maxed out, then more modding might not be a good idea. most shops up here charge an arm and a leg to do any (good) work. as you probably already know, there is next to no competition as there are few shops in Ontario. If your tuner prefers a WBO2 trace, it would be a good idea to listen or find someone else who is comfortable without one. I'm not knocking your tuner, just pointing out that whatever he/she is comfortable with is probably what you should do. getting the injectors in is pretty easy if you have a warm place to work. you pop the clips, remove the retainer and pull. it only gets tricky when you can't keep them warm because the orings get stiff and stick. the fuel pump involves removing the rear seat then some covers. the lines and bucket come out with just hand tools. getting the avo pump in involves a bit of trimming + some crimping and soldering. no rocket science, but you will want somewhere warm, with lots of ventilation, to work. call me paranoid, but I won't do a fuel pump unless it is warm enough outside to do the job at the end of the driveway. I absoluetly won't open up a fuel tank inside the garage (in case of car-B-Q). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RIPjeep2002 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 I am going stage 2 as soon as ERZ comes out with their 5eat DP, and I have am AEM UEGO to go into my car. I got it for the piece of mind so I know if I run lean or rich, and it makes it easier on the tuner to tune it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thefoos Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 The front o2 sensor is a "semi" wideband. I have seen others relocate it to the downpipe without issue. The reason for doing this is that the front o2 is quite accurate, but as with all o2 sensors, pressure effects the accuracy. Your front o2 sensor is very accurate at low to moderate loads, but once the exhaust manifold pressure rises, it loses accuracy. I haven't independently verified this, but from the data I've seen, its reasonable. So, if you don't want to buy a wideband, try relocating your front o2 to the downpipe. I have a wideband in my car, and this spring I'm going to move the front o2 to the downpipe and verify that it still matches up with the wideband... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SubyShop.com Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 What 'controller' does it plug in to ? Just a little confused. So the wideband results are only for my viewing ? The wideband comes with its own sensor and controller. You plug into the controller to do logging and take readings. The gauge plugs into the controller too. Assuming the bung is threaded the same on your downpipe (which it should be), you just screw in the sensor and then run the wires to the controller inside the car. You also would have to connect the controller to a power source. -Franz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razor Posted February 15, 2010 Author Share Posted February 15, 2010 ahh i see. that makes sense. we'll, i decided not to go with the fuel mods, little too much work in the cold. (its -30 deg celcius here). thanks for the info, maybe in the summer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brprs Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Back from the dead. Does it matter where you place the wideband o2 bung? Im going cobb ap stage 2 and want the piece of mind knowing my AFRs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NSFW Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Instructions will usually say something like 18" from the exhaust ports, but our turbo is already 2 or 3 feet away so anything post-turbo is far enough. Mount it pointing down into the pipe so that moisture won't collect on the sensor. As far as I know, all aftermarket DPs that have O2 sensor bungs have then in reasonable places. If yours is bungless, just put a bung in the top of the bellmouth. You can go further back if you want, just check for firewall clearance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brprs Posted November 25, 2012 Share Posted November 25, 2012 Awesome, thats what i was thinking i just wasnt sure thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.blackgt. Posted November 28, 2012 Share Posted November 28, 2012 I was told by my tuner that 10" from the turbo is the distance he prefers. Definitely check and double check for sensor/firewall clearance and mark it. FYI I just paid $20 to have the bung welded in. Cheaper than the AEM no weld kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackturboblack Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 Hello, I know this is an old thread but I hope to get some info. If I install a wideband into my DP I understand there will be a cable attached to the sensor. I assume this cable doesn't plug into any OEM plugs. I have a Cobb AP and Invidia cat bank. Now, the end of the sensor cable plus into what? The AP? Or a gauge? And what's the A/F logging on the AP for? Like the fellow above I'm trapped out. But I have turbo and 850s in already. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBlackPearl Posted February 5, 2014 Share Posted February 5, 2014 You've got some reading to do and it's quite in depth my man. Remote tuning is serious biz, not simply just throwing in a new sensor and calling it a day. The stock o2 sensor is quite inaccurate (in the stock, pre-turbo location) when you start tuning/upping the boost due to it's limited reading range (0-1v) and only reads down to 11.1x air-to-fuel ratio. An aftermarket wideband has a much broader range that it reads (0-5v) and will be much more accurate when placed downstream of the turbo (see Cobb's DP for the "usual" location) I went with the Innovate Motorsports LC-1 wbO2 sensor because of it's out-of-the-box compatibility with Cobb's AccessTunerRace tuning and datalogging software, and it made the most sense for what I was after. (I have to datalog with my laptop to convert/read/record the wbO2 signal) I opted to wire mine up strictly for temporary/tuning use only: http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/stock-wideband-relocation-201651.html?highlight=lc-1 If I were you, I'd start with reading Cobb's tuning FAQ on their website, then contact a remote tuner from the forum here. We have quite a number of e-tuners here that are key contributors to this site, and who are really, really good at what they do. Self proclaimed PNW Craiglist find of the day Champion, April 2014. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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